I picked up another woods freezer and ripped the guts out of it without breaking the lines. I will design a few evaporators to fit on the CPU, chipset, and ram.
The freezer was $157 and it took me 5 hours to completely disassemble and clean up.
I picked up the tools to build and braze copper tubing and have a good idea on how to build the finned tube evaporators to function properly.
I also have several engineers to fall back on for assistance since I do not have any HVAC training other than the research I have already done.
Lots of pictures to come,
-ooops can mod move this to phase change cooling section? my bad
blow torch w/ flux and solder $20.00
Half dozen 1/4" ID sleeves $2.00
Tube cutter with bur removal and reflare after cut. $4.95
50' of 1/4" soft copper tube $14.00
4' of cap tube from the compressor $4.95
35' of steel tube for condensor came with compressor
R-134A recharge kit from auto parts store $10.00 w/R-134A
2 shreader valves (1 spare) .95
Home depot prices
I am reworking a copper waterblock into a evaporator
I have access to evac and relaim system for freon.
I will have my HVAC cert next week. "mini" test required to get freon in larger quantity.
The condensor will be switched to a radiator type rather than 1/4" tube.
I have some seriously kick ass fans in ATM for 19" rack mount frames that I will use to cool the condensor.
And now comes the pictures, 56K warning
Gonna throw in pics of "toys" too so please install drool bib now.
First up is the Compressor, pulled from freezer. I installed the valve (pictured)
New Evopator coil, playing around till I get my block finished.
Rittal fan 500CFM 110v, machine pictured is under NDA.
New toy, Panasonic TH-50PHD3U 50" plasma display for $1995 used a few hours. will be recessed into wall. sorry for the crappy pic but I will post more when mounted.
Old toy, computer controlled 10' Flat bed router with 6" depth. great for fabriaction, signs, cutting holes in cases, recessed wall mounting for plasma display =P, milling down copper blocks with percision. Centra being cut into letter pictured.
The Lytron unit in action, 65F under full load. Machine "almost" pictured is under NDA.
Love at first sight. I know core routers are more impressive but this puppy is the bomb. Also pictured in a rare pair of Kenwood 72x.
Here is a JV-4 setup for dyesub outputting new bannars for transfer. sorry for the close shot, much of the lab areas are restricted from taking pictures. You would be surprised how much we do in house.
I'm in the middle of putting together a R404a refrigeration system. For those who dont know R404a is the refrigerant for seriously low temps (R134a is general purpose stuff).
Some pics:
Compressor/Condensor:
Evoporators (one for gfx card and one for cpu:
The system is designed to run at -40 evap temp under full (170W+) load.
I'm currectly in the process of getting a case made.
Originally posted by BigBadger I'm in the middle of putting together a R404a refrigeration system. For those who dont know R404a is the refrigerant for seriously low temps (R134a is general purpose stuff).
Some pics:
Compressor/Condensor:
Evoporators (one for gfx card and one for cpu:
The system is designed to run at -40 evap temp under full (170W+) load.
I'm currectly in the process of getting a case made.
BigBadger - Nice & Clean setup... can u PM me with some more info about these evap..
ANd you plan to run a dual loop? hmm... now thats nice
i am doing the same thing...(not yet)
and i have some questions.
my dehumidifier (r134a) has a 740w compressor, and the temperature of the evaporator coil is about -35*C. i suspect that its designed to work with LOWER TEMPS, BUT HIGHER HEAT LOADS than i want it to. since the evaporator coil is pretty big, i am thinking that its designed to work with about 1000w heat load.
so the question is: how do make it work with higher performance, temperature-wise (-50*c, i'm hoping), and lower the limit of the heatload it will work at. in other words, i don't need it to cool something that is 1000w, i only need it to cool my CPU and what not, 250w max.
i am sorry for my ignorance, i didn't exactly do my homework, but in order to do the above, do i make the capline thinner and/or the evaporator wider? that way there will be a bigger drop in pressure, therefore lower temps.
or is the compressor designed to work with only this wide of a capline and decreasing it would kill the compressor?
please respond: FUGGER, AndrOvr, BigBadger
thanks in advance guys,
btw, MAKE THIS THREAD STICKY!
I dont see what else could be, in the "phase change" forum...
Hmmm R409a..........I'll have to look into it, not sure if my compressor would be compatible, the manufacturer (Tecumseh) does not list R409a.
dmitriyaz, basically if you want to get lower temps with a smaller heat load you increase the length of you capillary tube (assume your using a capillary not a Thermostatic Expansion Valve) so that you get a higher pressure on the hot side and a lower pressure on the cold side.......The problem here is you need a compressor that can cope with the higher pressure differential and also R134a has too high a boiling point for serious low temp applications. getting the capillary tube length right is by all accounts a bit hit or miss, I’m hoping I get it pretty much right first time.
By the way, I eventually got a price for the case for the refrigeration system.....£150 !!!! This is too much for my pocket so it's out with the sheet of aluminium and a pop rivet gun, maybe wont be pretty but with the money i'm saving I'll get a Coolermaster case for the PC !
thanks BigBadger
and i thought, why is there a capline coal in my dehumidifier already?
a waste of copper?
now i know.
you know i like to work with numbers better than educated guesses,
are there any formulas that you can think of that i should know?
involving pressure/temearture differential, properties of freons?
thanks again.
I didnt know about the length of the evap tube would change the actuall end temp.
I shortened it from about 6 feet to 1 foot.
I built my first Evap already, and it works better than the original evap coil.
I used soft copper refreidge tube and remade the condensor into a coil.
I picked up a recharge kit from pepboys for $20.00 and charged the system myself with about 50psi charge.
My first evap is small, just a working prototype, the second should be more like Uaza, or possibly using the volcano 7+ sealed up with a little slice and dice action on the internal thin fins.
It is very easy to make an evaporator. After I completed my CPU block I will move onto chipset, memory and GPU.
And after I get those done I graduate to a larger compressor.
So far so good, completely rebuilt the system and it still works, woohoo!
this is what the regular phase change looks like:
this is my idea: put the capline inside the evaporator exhaust.
the catch is: after cooling your CPU, the evaporated freon is doing nothing on the way back to the compressor.
why not make it COOL THE CAPLINE, so that when freon comes out of it, into the evaporator, it will be ever cooler!
the same principle (kind of) they use on turbocharged cars:
make exhaust work to the benefit of the intake.
heres a visual aid.
(the brighter red--the hotter, the brighter blue--the colder).
as you can see, the evaporator is colder than in the reagular setup (the 1st pic)
no, condenrser is that big thing with stripes all over it,
and the blue arrow points where the airflow (fan) would cool the condenser.
a quick question: i need to make the capline out of something more flexible than copper. suggestions?
it will be inside a silicone tube that would take cold freon from the CPU block (the evaporator) back to the compressor.
also, BigBabder, what is that big black round thing in between the compressor and the condernsor?
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