Mojo
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Yes, playing with it on SS now.
I should have tested temps on air/water like you did prior to changing thermal paste. I never really tried it on anything but phase so its hard to see if temps are lower. Bios only goes to -20c, and evap temp wont show any change.
Wow nice going !
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HEAT
clock it then
if its working you will gain 100Mhz or more
Mojo
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Does anyone think it might be partially due to the stock black adhesive used to glue the IHS to the CPU?
Since maybe about 0.5mm of this gunk is cleaned off in the process of delidding it could be increasing mounting pressure.
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heatware
This really begs the question, "Why doesn't Intel use Arctic Silver 5 or something better?"
I remember reading that the chip performed worse without the IHS at all than with it. So I think just replacing the TIM and putting the spreader back on is the best bet. And less dangerous in general for the motherboard and CPU during operation.
Nice, this reminds me of the good old days cutting Venice cpus
Back in AMD Venice days (3200+ etc. cpus) I used to glue it back with the white silicone grease (the one that can be used in bathrooms/sinks etc.). I am sure there is a black variety as well. However, it was not for the purpose of warranty and I would not encourage it anyway. It was just to secure the IHS. From what I remember temps after reattaching the IHS were just fine (a few degrees lower) with Venice cpus
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This stuff probably would suffice:
http://www.contec7.co.uk/tec7.htm
Use it for loads of things and it's really sturdy stuff.
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Hardware: Gigabyte GA-Z87M-D3H, Intel i5 4670k @ 4GHz, Crucial DDR3 BallistiX, Asus GTX 770 DirectCU II, Corsair HX 650W, Samsung 830 256GB, Silverstone Precision -|- Cooling: Noctua NH-C12P SE14
Nice thread
How much did you gain in terms of stable oc at same voltage after IHS removal ?
"God...i know she's dead :'( but keep her soul alive because in my heart she will never die :'(" VoRtAn_MaDgE
Nc te eskecerei avó! :'(
I sucessfully shaved IHS off from my 3570k.
Removed socket holder and directly mounted the Heatkiller waterblock on it !
I now have 15 °C better Temps !
Before i had 4,6 Hhz @ 1.32 V @ 80°C
Now i have the same config @ 65 °C.
So its a nice drop !!!
Can clock now about 200 Mhz more.
Temps are much more better especially when increasing Vcore.
@ 1.44 V i have about 73°C without IHS
with IHS i never would run so much Vcore on this CPU cause i think temp would go to 100°C range.
Mainboard: Gigabyte Z77X-UD5H
CPU: Intel i5 3570k 4.8 Ghz
Memory: G.Skill DDR3-2200
GFX: 2 x 680 GTX SLI
PSU: Enermax Revolution 85+ 1200W
Sound: Auzen Hometheater HD
Display: LG W3000H 30" 2560x1600 + 2x 1200x1600 portrait mode
Cooling:
CPU: Heatkiller 3.0 + 3x EK Waterblock
Mainboard: Gigabyte Z77X-UD5H
CPU: Intel i5 3570k 4.8 Ghz
Memory: G.Skill DDR3-2200
GFX: 2 x 680 GTX SLI
PSU: Enermax Revolution 85+ 1200W
Sound: Auzen Hometheater HD
Display: LG W3000H 30" 2560x1600 + 2x 1200x1600 portrait mode
Cooling:
CPU: Heatkiller 3.0 + 3x EK Waterblock
#37 high voltset ? i use 1.4v to 5GHZ PLL 1.73v to I7 3770K
would that help ?
Coollaboratory Liquid MetalPad
http://www.coollaboratory.com/en/pro...quid-metalpad/
I have these MetalPads here.....but installed with Noctua Thermalpaste because of handling.
It isn´t easy to mount an waterblock on this small DIE, i think Metalpad would make it more difficult.
Maybe the 3770k CPUs clock even better than 3570k CPUs
Mainboard: Gigabyte Z77X-UD5H
CPU: Intel i5 3570k 4.8 Ghz
Memory: G.Skill DDR3-2200
GFX: 2 x 680 GTX SLI
PSU: Enermax Revolution 85+ 1200W
Sound: Auzen Hometheater HD
Display: LG W3000H 30" 2560x1600 + 2x 1200x1600 portrait mode
Cooling:
CPU: Heatkiller 3.0 + 3x EK Waterblock
what did you use to make up for the difference in height of the chip after the IHS is gone? when i tried with my apogee xt block, it would not make contact with the direct die because there are stops on the screws. did you use new screws or does the heatkiller come with screws that don't have stops, so the lower height of the chip is a non-issue?
EDIT: this question was directed @BMWMASTER81
Last edited by chinkgai; 05-13-2012 at 07:54 PM.
I was under the impression that it was the cpu socket that wouldnt allow direct die contact. IF that is no the case then any waterblock/heatsink that just screws down onto the cpu will work?
example: ek_supremehf_installed1.jpg
| Intel i7 3770K | Custom H2O | Gigabyte z77x-ud5h | 16GB Samsung | GTX680 | 240g Mushkin Deluxe |
-METALLICA-
Nope, it's not only that. you have to remove the CPU retention bracket AND make up for the height change after IHS removal unless u have a screw type heatsink/block that does not have stops on the screws. Most do have stops though for even pressure.
The mounting style in the pic u posted would work simply by removing the bracket however. No stops on that style.
thats a nice droop!!
here is my fresh 3570k retail (unmodded) on water
for 4800MHz i need 1.5v and its not stable cz the heat issue is so critical,
after one minute of prime the core temperature will hit 90c and would go to 100 degrees celsious easily
but in the other hand my modded 3770k is going better and better
4600MHz at 1.15v !!
Mojo
Family
Biostar TP55 XE - Core i7 860(ES) @ 4.2ghz - CNPS10X Extreme - G.SKILL 1600 - Galaxy GTX275 - Velociraptor 300GB x 2 - Zippy TypeR 600w
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Biostar Tpower X58A - 920~Gulf - G.SKILL2000CL8 - GTX580 - Intel 520 120GB - Antec HCP 1200w
Biostar TP67XE/TZ77XE4 2500k~3770K - G.SKILL 2800 - GTX480 - OCZ Vertex2 50GB - Corsair AX1200
Biostar Tpower X79 i7 3820 ~ E5 2680 - G.SKILL 2400C11 - GTX560Ti - Intel 520 120GB - AX1200i
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P4GD1 - Pentium M 780 - XMS Xpert400 - GTX460 - Raptor 36GB - Aopen 560w
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Mojo
Family
Biostar TP55 XE - Core i7 860(ES) @ 4.2ghz - CNPS10X Extreme - G.SKILL 1600 - Galaxy GTX275 - Velociraptor 300GB x 2 - Zippy TypeR 600w
Criminal
Biostar Tpower X58A - 920~Gulf - G.SKILL2000CL8 - GTX580 - Intel 520 120GB - Antec HCP 1200w
Biostar TP67XE/TZ77XE4 2500k~3770K - G.SKILL 2800 - GTX480 - OCZ Vertex2 50GB - Corsair AX1200
Biostar Tpower X79 i7 3820 ~ E5 2680 - G.SKILL 2400C11 - GTX560Ti - Intel 520 120GB - AX1200i
Kids
P4GD1 - Pentium M 780 - XMS Xpert400 - GTX460 - Raptor 36GB - Aopen 560w
Am I right under the assumption that the removal of the IHS and retention bracket only works with waterblocks and not air cooler as they would bend the socket pins due to their weight ?
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PcCI2iminal, did you re attach the IHS with glue or something or is it just loose and held together by the cpu socket clips on the mb?
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