Cold Bugs?

[XC] gomeler · 11-11-2005, 11:27 AM

It has been about 3 months since I've posted on here, so I probably missed a few important posts. I managed to get my DD single stage unit working for a while but I ran into problems w/ my SS line having rubbers seals that shrunk when put under sub-zero temps. So here comes the questions.
1) Does anyone know of a source of flex-lines that don't have stupid rubber seals for the connections?
2)Does anyone know if Athlon XP's have coldbugs of any sort? Going to be using a 2400 TB and a 2500 Barton on a nforce2 w/ 1gb of OCZ plat rev2.
3) Should I look into cooling the NB to help w/ memory OC'ing?

That is about it, if I can't get a flexline installed, I'll just use a solid line with a bunch of coils to dampen vibrations.

Gray Mole · 11-11-2005, 12:58 PM

Where in the world are you? Would help to know, as there's different sources of that stuff everywhere.

Send a PM to Chilly1, or check out Runmc's online store, they sell nice SS lines you can braze on.

NB cooling on the Nforce stuff was ok, but water, or something like a microcool was usually enough. If you vmodded the NB for voltage, you could look into something more, like chilled water or Vapo or something but it's not totally necessary unless you're looking to squeeze every little bit.

Cold bugs on old XP's? Never heard of them having it...

Gray

[XC] gomeler · 11-11-2005, 01:04 PM

I'm in Atlanta, Georgia. Anyone know of a "normal" store that would sell SS flex-lines? I'm using something for I believe a kitchen sink at the moment, not meant to freeze =) I guess if the NB gets too hot I can push more air over it w/ a 80mm and some duct-work.

Gray Mole · 11-11-2005, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gomeler

I'm using something for I believe a kitchen sink at the moment, not meant to freeze =)

Please say you're kidding

Run's store, or getting one from Chilly1 for that matter, is likely as cheap as you'll find at any store that would carry them.

The rubber lines that Baker18 used were rated to -50 I think and would be fine.

Otherwise, a 'standpipe' would be a far better idea than any plumbing gear.

I'll leave it up to the US guys to suggest a US supplier.

Gray

[XC] gomeler · 11-11-2005, 01:51 PM

No I'm not kidding, in my hometown I had a lot of trouble finding the parts to build this thing. It runs just fine and is rated for something like 200psi (water). Considering how the suction is running vacuum I didn't have a problem. Looking for Run's store right now.
Another question, how do I tell the oil level of the compressor? it doesn't exactly have a dipstick.. Thanks for the help.

Gray Mole · 11-11-2005, 02:06 PM

Unless you've had a leak, or drained some of the oil, you shouldn't need to worry about it, but you can just google the specs of the compressor and it'll tell you how much it takes and what kind.

If you turn the compressor upside down when it's free, and drain ti out of the suction port into a measuring cup, you just replace the amount that came out.

If you're changing to a different kind of oil, you really need to make sure it's all out, you can drain, add the oil you'll use, mix and drain that again to be sure you've flushed it all out.

teampuss forums, 'under the ice' is listed there.

Gray

[XC] gomeler · 11-11-2005, 02:20 PM

Ok found his store, wasn't very happy about the price for the line, so I'll either find another source or use solid copper. Think I might just go w/ a solid copper setup considering it'll be installed onto a desktop that will never move. Thanks for the help, tomorrow will be a busy day.

jinu117 · 11-11-2005, 02:34 PM

Ask chilly one for suction line than. Price might be different if you decide to braze it yourself. I got pretty good at it now after many practices :P (Looks as clean as RunMC's now hehe) Just need to get evap brazing down to how chilly does it now... which won't be easy.