How to Bend/Form Tubing for Your Setups

[voigts]

I'm currently wrapping up some changes on my setup, and I thought I would share a trick which proved very useful that I recently picked up here on XS. I can't find the thread now, but the idea is one of the handiest I've come across in years of watercooling. It was only mentioned in a thread, but there isn't an entire thread about it. I used this several times in redoing the lower part of my loop, and it works great. Not only can it save you from having to use elbows and such, but it can help you avoid having situations where the tubing is pressing against barbs and wanting to kink due to tight bends.

If you want to form tubing for tight bends or any bends, you can shape it the way you want. You simply make sure it somehow it is in a steady position in that shape, and then immerse it in boiling water and then in ice water several times and it will form how you like. I found a spring for $3 at a local ACE hardware that fits perfectly inside of the 7/16” id tubing. A spring is necessary in order to make sure the tubing doesn't kink while forming. In the mention of this idea I originally saw, the guy used a rope, but a rope would leave marks on the tubing whereas a spring doesn't.



I am using XSPC 7/16" id 5/8" od tubing in my setup. For the loop in the pic above, I put the tubing into a plastic Tupperware cup, immersed it in boiling water for a minute or two, then ice water, and repeated the process a few times. Obviously if you use a cup or the like, it needs to be able to handle boiling water. It would probably be easier to use a jar like a pickle jar since the tubing did have a tendency to want to work its way out of the cup due to the taper.









Once heated and cooled like this a few times, the tubing holds it shape.

I have a very tight spot where one radiator feeds the other radiator. The space measured from the outside (not the inside) between the barbs is only 2 1/4” (about 57mm). The inside space between the barbs is only about 1 1/4”. Tubing would normally kink in a bend this tight. Since the piece of tubing was very short, and the bend had to be so tight, I simply used a pair of tongs to hold the tubing while forming. Using tongs did leave a small indentation on the tubing, but it is no big deal.





The tubing formed so that just sitting the outside was only 3” apart. I had no kinking problems putting it at 2 1/4” apart.





I also used this on my pump to GPU connection so that the tubing wouldn't be pushing against the pump.

Maybe this will be a help to others as well.

[PiLsY]

Awesome effort dude and top tips there too .

[Garrett]

Thanks man, I really think you've just made a lot of us watercoolers happy
Too bad you can't get a blue ribbon for this post, like on EVGA forums

[eponymous]

Originally Posted by voigts

Great guide here.

Am I right in thinking that's Primochill Pro LRT? :P If not then that's an amazing bend radius.

[meanmoe]

Did you get any discoloration? It doesn't look like it in the picture.

I tried something similiar with colored tubing and they bleached white a little.

[scamps]

stale news - at least in Germany

http://www.hardwareluxx.de/community...d.php?t=619686

[Bojamijams]

for a res to pump connection, there really is no issue with using 45deg fittings.. or even 90s.. hell there isn't a problem using them anywhere, I have 7 45's and 3 90's in my system and I have no issues with my flow/temperatures.. and they make the whole setup SOOOOOO much cleaner and better looking.

Compared to the extra time and effort it takes to do this, as well as money on extra lengths of tubing, and the invaluable aspect of simply looking cleaner and better, there really isn't any reason to bother forming tubing like this.

Get the fittings.. they're not flow killers in the slightest

[Noisy]

Originally Posted by Bojamijams

Compared to the extra time and effort it takes to do this, as well as money on extra lengths of tubing, and the invaluable aspect of simply looking cleaner and better, there really isn't any reason to bother forming tubing like this.

At least it is a good option for someone, does not mean everyone need to take this route. I personally favor fitting also. And yes I think fitting does cost more then the tubing involved

Originally Posted by Bojamijams

Get the fittings.. they're not flow killers in the slightest

That's not true, any pipe that not straight will reduce the flow rate, so yes, a formed tubing or a combo of 45 and 90 will more or less have the same restriction, it just the impact is not that obvious.

[PiLsY]

Originally Posted by scamps

stale news - at least in Germany

http://www.hardwareluxx.de/community...d.php?t=619686

Didn't see you do a write up and tell everyone else who isn't german about it though? Besides, what do you guys need this method for with your 1/4" tubes??

Just tried this and it works great with XSPC 3/4" OD. Managed to replicate a really nasty split S pipe that I had with 3 BP twisty snakes. Used an old camping bed spring to make the shape. Tried 3 boil and cools and it wasnt quite right. A further 2 and its just peachy. I didnt use boiling water - got it to around 60-70c which did fine.

[voigts]

Originally Posted by eponymous

Great guide here.

Am I right in thinking that's Primochill Pro LRT? :P If not then that's an amazing bend radius.

Its XSPC tubing. Without forming it like this, there is no way I could have gotten that bend radius. Plus, with the tubing formed, it retains its shape so it isn't pushing on the barbs

Originally Posted by meanmoe

Did you get any discoloration? It doesn't look like it in the picture.

I tried something similiar with colored tubing and they bleached white a little.

No discoloration whatsoever.

Originally Posted by scamps

stale news - at least in Germany

http://www.hardwareluxx.de/community...d.php?t=619686

5 months isn't THAT old, and besides, since the forum is all in German and my german is hardly up to reading all of that, it is no surprise that I wouldn't have seen it. But if you Germans hadn't been trying to keep secrets, we all would have already been informed

Originally Posted by Bojamijams

for a res to pump connection, there really is no issue with using 45deg fittings.. or even 90s.. hell there isn't a problem using them anywhere, I have 7 45's and 3 90's in my system and I have no issues with my flow/temperatures.. and they make the whole setup SOOOOOO much cleaner and better looking.

Compared to the extra time and effort it takes to do this, as well as money on extra lengths of tubing, and the invaluable aspect of simply looking cleaner and better, there really isn't any reason to bother forming tubing like this.

Get the fittings.. they're not flow killers in the slightest

I believe it was Martin among others who showed that 90 elbows near inlets do cause a significant hit on flow. So your statement about using them anywhere isn't accurate.

I have no problems using Bitspower or copper elbows and 90s. I have two Bitspower 90s, one Bitspower 45, and a copper elbow in this loop. You are completely missing the point. There are places that elbows and the like just don't work that well. On that res to pump inlet, there was no good way to use fittings to make the connection. The res and pump barbs are simply too close and offset. I tried 45s and 90s and there was no good way to do it without potentially transferring pump vibrations to the res. Forming the tubing gave me another option that allows for any vibrations to work out in the tubing before hitting the res.

For the connection between radiators, the only thing that really would have worked was a set of Bitspower tight 90 connectors, which I have, but they are a real pain to put on. Having a tightly formed piece of tubing to join them was a lot easier.

On my pump to GPU connection, I have a 45 going out from the pump, and could have used a 45 fitting between the pump and GPU again, but it was simpler to just have one clean hose formed rather than putting a fitting inline.

As for the "money on extra lengths of tubing" comment, can you explain to me how maybe a foot of tubing at <$2 is more than what easily take over $40 in Bitspower fittings to do?

Originally Posted by PiLsY

Besides, what do you guys need this method for with your 1/4" tubes?? .

That's a good point! +1 for the Americans

Boiling water works faster than just using hot water.

[RADCOM]

Originally Posted by scamps

stale news - at least in Germany

http://www.hardwareluxx.de/community...d.php?t=619686

well at leat you put a :P so you don't sound like a player hater. Top tip Eponymous The title had me thinking it was about forging copper bends

[Bojamijams]

Its 90 on the outlet that impacts flow.. not on the inlet

[Sadasius]

Awesome stuff. Glad you made a thread for it so it's easier to search for. I remember reading about it before it got buried with the other stuff here.

Scamps go play with your 1/4" tubing.

[millertime359]

Originally Posted by Bojamijams

Its 90 on the outlet that impacts flow.. not on the inlet

Thought it was on the inlet. The concern was that the 90 wasn't funneling the coolant in properly.

[Zeus]

I did the same with the piece of tubing between my CPU block and NB block but i used a piece of cable instead of a spring.

Didn't use icewater but cold tapwater instead to cool the tubing down. I had to keep the piece in the boiling water for some minutes or else it didn't hold the shape.

Worked like a charm on my 1/2"OD 3/8" Tygon R3400.

[eponymous]

On the subject of fittings I tend to stay away from the 90 degree fitting and instead use two 45 degree fittings to create a 90 degree with a larger bend radius and therefore lower restriction. As voigts says though, there are times when you simply cannot use fittings and must use a combination of tight bends and twists to achieve a connection and this idea is great for that. I tend to find that if you can do it with tubing rather than fittings, it will look much cleaner and will be cheaper

[Bojamijams]

Originally Posted by eponymous

I tend to find that if you can do it with tubing rather than fittings, it will look much cleaner and will be cheaper

Thats odd, I find the completely opposite. Well except for the cheaper, I agree but maybe I like the more industrial / professional look of fittings.

Anyhow, its good to have a guide for those that want to go this route, so thank to the OP for that.

[NaeKuh]

oh boy..

U just gave away viper john's secret in charging tygon at a 5 dollar premium!

:X

But yes, you dont need the spring on the inside either, you can do it on the outside.
And this principle is the same as flash forming, when you prep a mouth guard for personal use.

[eponymous]

Originally Posted by Bojamijams

Thats odd, I find the completely opposite. Well except for the cheaper, I agree but maybe I like the more industrial / professional look of fittings.

Anyhow, its good to have a guide for those that want to go this route, so thank to the OP for that.

Heh, don't get me wrong, I still used a lot of fittings which were invaluable in my project as you will see when I update my log :P

[voigts]

Originally Posted by millertime359

Thought it was on the inlet. The concern was that the 90 wasn't funneling the coolant in properly.

That's what I remember reading a number of times from tests done, but I would much rather let someone like Skinney or the like who does the testing chime in further on that. My understanding is that having the elbow near the inlet is worse than right on the outlet, but having one right on the outlet doesn't help with pressure.

Originally Posted by NaeKuh

But yes, you dont need the spring on the inside either, you can do it on the outside.

That makes sense. You just need something to keep the round shape of the tubing so it doesn't go flat and kink. A $3 spring on the inside worked great for me.

[NaeKuh]

Originally Posted by voigts

That's what I remember reading a number of times from tests done, but I would much rather let someone like Skinney or the like who does the testing chime in further on that. My understanding is that having the elbow near the inlet is worse than right on the outlet, but having one right on the outlet doesn't help with pressure.

Has to do with laminar flow when you put a 90 at the inlet.

Bascially everyone who does pumps professionally told me, ideally, you want a straight path to the inlet.

Thats why in all my builds you see, i have a straight path directly to the inlet.

[D749]

Nice, I'll give that a try. I use this: 11.6 amp 140/1040 degree Fahrenheit variable temperature heat gun.

[Waterlogged]

voigts, I think your referring to Darkcow's topic. He does something similar @ post #46.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=228363

[meanmoe]

Originally Posted by NaeKuh

Has to do with laminar flow when you put a 90 at the inlet.

Bascially everyone who does pumps professionally told me, ideally, you want a straight path to the inlet.

Thats why in all my builds you see, i have a straight path directly to the inlet.

I think the word is steady. You want steady flow at the inlet. Rule of thumb for air in a pipe is 10 times the diameter in length. IIRC from two different experiments, 2 times the diameter in length eliminates most of the dynamics. After a full decade it's like the bend didn't happen, the pressure variations are gone and you get the normal parabolic velocity profile again. Water may be different but probably not much. It may damp out faster, I don't know.

Like you and Miller said, I don't think it has quite the same effect on the outlet unless you had a real weak pump. (another rule of thumb - don't disagree with Martin)

@voigts
Thanks for showing this off. I tried to do something similar once and failed miserably. Never thought of using something to hold it's shape.

I also had tubing discolor badly, I think it may have been masterleeker... it turned a nice cloudy white.

[voigts]

Originally Posted by Waterlogged

voigts, I think your referring to Darkcow's topic. He does something similar @ post #46.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=228363

Bingo. That's the post that gave me the idea. I searched but couldn't find it.