I have a TJ07 with an MCR330 rad in the bottom (considering replacing with a quad). I also have an MCR220 laying around and I was thinking about putting it in the top and adding it to the loop.
Would I see a drop in temp adding the MCR220? I have an MCP355 pump with the XSPC dual bay res and 1/2", 3/4" tubing.
Last edited by ScottyPimpin; 11-03-2009 at 05:42 AM.
We need more information to even begin answering this question.
To start with, what are you cooling? Would you add the new rad into the same loop in serial? What are your current temps? What fans will you be using? What is your ambient?
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Rig specs
CPU: i7 920 @ 3.8GHz Mobo: eVGA Classified 760 RAM: 3x2GB OCZ DDR3-1866 Reapers @ 1,800, CAS-8 VGA: Sapphire HD5870 @ Core 900 Mem 1,250
HDD: 6x WD6400AAKS in RAID-6 powered by Highpoint RocketRaid 3520 SFX: Auzentech X-Fi Prelude
PSU: Corsair HX-1000 Case: Silverstone TJ-09 modded for WC OS: Win7 RTM x64 Liquid-cooled
Sub-loop One: EK-Supreme -=- MCR320, 3x Scythe S-FLEX "F" fans -=- 7/16" Pro-LRT -=- 7/16" BP compressions-=- MCP655 w. Typhoon III Sub-loop Two: EK Classified FC -=- 2x MCR120, Scythe S-FLEX "F" fans -=- 7/16" Pro-LRT -=- 7/16" BP compressions-=- MCP655 w. Typhoon III Peripherals
-=- Dell 2408WFP rev.A01 -=- Audio Technica ATH-AD1000 -=- Razer Mamba -=- Microsoft "Natural Ergonomic 7000" keyboard -=-
also ... its impossible to get no change in temp at all from load to unloaded... laws of physics ^^;;...but if ur goin minimal.. it'll depend on how well u can minimize the number of elements the heat as to travel through between cores and the water. then having lotsa rads .. you can check skinnee's reviews on the rads.. with super high rpm fans and high flow rate + high fpi rads you might be able to get 5 degree or so delta
Adding the MCR220 will definitely help, so if you have room in your TJ07 case, and you have the time on hand, (and you have some extra 1/2" tubing, and two fittings), then definitely add that 220 to your loop! Conservatively speaking, that MCR220 can dissipate approximately another 300 watts of heat, assuming a 10C delta (air in to water out), and assuming you are using 2x120mm fans @ 1800 rpm. Adding a rad like that, that you happen to have laying around doing nothing seems like a no-brainer to me. Also you could now add a gpu to that loop, and be fine! (I think you were asking about this in another post, if I remember.)
Now how much lower are ur temps going to get? Umm, that's another story: your max load temps should get lower (depending on current heat load), and your system will definitely have a lower air in/ water out delta. However, you probably will not notice any change in idle temps. Say what!? Yes, I know it's frustrating. But don't take this as a reason not to add that second rad. Adding a second rad will improve the total heat dissipation capacity of your WC system. And that Laing DDC 3.2 pump you have (MCP355) has plenty of head pressure to handle the extra MCR 220, with no problems. It will churn through that second rad like it ain't nothing. So go for it.
If the mcr220 is breathing air from the mcr320 you might not see much of a difference, not as much as if both rads get fresh air atleast. But we know nothing about your system and setup...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmer411
Tho personally Iam wishing I had more girth than length. This skinny thing I got just dont get the job done anymore. The wife agrees.
also ... its impossible to get no change in temp at all from load to unloaded... laws of physics ^^;;...but if ur goin minimal.. it'll depend on how well u can minimize the number of elements the heat as to travel through between cores and the water. then having lotsa rads .. you can check skinnee's reviews on the rads.. with super high rpm fans and high flow rate + high fpi rads you might be able to get 5 degree or so delta
Nonsense! As radiators/fans approach infinity, so does the air/water delta at load approach 0. Technically, yes, you can never get 0 change, but I'll be you can get it to so small a change our temp monitoring abilities aren't able to register a change.
Nonsense! As radiators/fans approach infinity, so does the air/water delta at load approach 0. Technically, yes, you can never get 0 change, but I'll be you can get it to so small a change our temp monitoring abilities aren't able to register a change.
lets get a 100x ddc top for it to drive everything
We need more information to even begin answering this question.
To start with, what are you cooling? Would you add the new rad into the same loop in serial? What are your current temps? What fans will you be using? What is your ambient?
Right now i'm using 3x D12SL fans but i'm converting to DD12SH on the 320 and on the 220 as well. The higher speed fans should make a difference on it's own.
Ambient temps in the room are between 68-75, just really depends on what's going on in the house and weather outside.
Current Loop: Pump > 320 > CPU > Res
New Loop #1: Pump > 320 > 220 > CPU > Res
New Loop #2: Pump > 320 > CPU > 220> Res
It would "look" better with loop #2 and either way the water is flowing through 2 Rads before it ever reaches the cpu again.
Parallel Loop using EK MultiLink Reservoir CPU Loop: Heatkiller 3.0 CU (Nickel plated) - Feser 360 (S-Flex G) - MCP350 + EK Plexi Top - EK Reservoir
NB/SB + GPU Loop: EK 280 Nickel Plexi - Bitspower 780i Fullcover - Feser 240 (S-Flex G) - MCP355 + EK Plexi top
I have found that achieving ambient load or close to for a good period is not practical becuase you will eventually alter the ambient. I do know that I can have a smaller spike in temp with slightly better flow and perhaps improved heatsink but currently I get +3 ambient for coolant and +20max on (external)cpu sensor under load(not the internal die). I can maintain this temperature at a constant level and I have confirmed this by preforming leaving the computer on for weeks with 100% cpu usage. In every case the computer exceeded the rooms ability to cool. I would note however that this would not be possible if I was unable to remove the heat from the case the radiators are in at the same rate that the air passes though them. So it may be a good idea to ensure that you have more eir going out of your case than into it. However, this is why I say that the best you can do is get it to where your limit is ambient +1-4F. If you can maintain that for a fre days then your new limit is the ambient becuase generally you are cooling at an efficacy enough level to where your largest X factor is the room itself.
It is 33 here at night and I run the A/C to maintain <75F in my apartment. This is the first winter I have had this computer but I think that this combined with my other systems may actually be enough to heat a 2 bead room apartment during the winter.
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