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Old 10-25-2009, 02:33 PM   #1
blinker0
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Drier Filter ?

I'm getting stuff together for My first Phase in a long time.. Since Socket A AMD'S if that gives it away.

In my first unit I built I didn't use a filter drier on the high side. But used a suction line drier. Like I said my first one and I made a lot of mistakes

My question is , Is a drier necessary on the hight side?

Thanks
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Old 10-25-2009, 02:44 PM   #2
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I'm getting stuff together for My first Phase in a long time.. Since Socket A AMD'S if that gives it away.

In my first unit I built I didn't use a filter drier on the high side. But used a suction line drier. Like I said my first one and I made a lot of mistakes

My question is , Is a drier necessary on the hight side?

Thanks

yes...and come on they only cost like what $4.50 for a spun copper filter drier at your local united refrigeration
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Old 10-25-2009, 03:00 PM   #3
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It wasn't a cost issue. just curious. Besides filtration. Exactly whats the importance on which side the drier is on? Not trying to argue would just like to Know?

BTW I do already have one. was just debating to use one or not
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Old 10-25-2009, 03:50 PM   #4
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It wasn't a cost issue. just curious. Besides filtration. Exactly whats the importance on which side the drier is on? Not trying to argue would just like to Know?

BTW I do already have one. was just debating to use one or not

Captubes get clogged so you want it on your liquid side before your captube....
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Old 10-25-2009, 04:21 PM   #5
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ok thanks
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Old 10-25-2009, 07:02 PM   #6
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You need to be carful on those spun filters or fiter/dryers. Many are only a filter to protect the cap tube but have no Desiccant for moisture removeal.

Especially on ebay, most don't know the difference. Check part #'s

If you not using new tube,didn't purge or there may be foreign material in the low side, a suction line filter will help protect the compressor
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Old 10-25-2009, 09:10 PM   #7
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You need to be carful on those spun filters or fiter/dryers. Many are only a filter to protect the cap tube but have no Desiccant for moisture removeal.

Especially on ebay, most don't know the difference. Check part #'s

If you not using new tube,didn't purge or there may be foreign material in the low side, a suction line filter will help protect the compressor
wdrzal, are you saying just using a filter/drier on the suction line can be substituted for purging lines?

Of course im sure it's not recommended and would decrease performance a bit, but it would work?
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Old 10-25-2009, 09:15 PM   #8
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wdrzal, are you saying just using a filter/drier on the suction line can be substituted for purging lines?

Of course im sure it's not recommended and would decrease performance a bit, but it would work?
Never know how fine the filter is and you could end up with minute quantities of abrasive oxidized copper floating around in your oil.
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Old 10-25-2009, 10:14 PM   #9
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wdrzal, are you saying just using a filter/drier on the suction line can be substituted for purging lines?
No I didn't say that........
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Old 10-25-2009, 11:21 PM   #10
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No I didn't say that........
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If you not using new tube,didn't purge or there may be foreign material in the low side, a suction line filter will help protect the compressor
Okay, although not explicitly stated, i thought that is what you were suggesting here...

I was kinda hoping just buying an extra filter for the low side would be possible... I really hate purging... biggest pain in the ass of my life...
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Old 10-26-2009, 05:22 AM   #11
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thanks guys... Even though I didnt use one on my first SS ( it did last years) till it was just too small. I Just wanted clarification on the importance on SS. I always purge At work.. So thats not a problem.
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Old 10-26-2009, 03:23 PM   #12
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. I really hate purging... biggest pain in the ass of my life...
Thats because you guys make it difficult...........every time you guys hook up a joint or 2 ,you braze it.Don't do that

Complete the entire stage at least before you even light the torch.

The only exception maybe is a difficult evap.
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Old 10-26-2009, 04:20 PM   #13
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The practice i always use (AT work) is atleast two access ports .I start brazing the farthest joint away from the access i am purging from, When i start to get close the the access i am purging from , I stop let my joints cool. then connect to the access I first started brazing at and finish my joints



May be the wrong way.. but it thats what i was taught to do
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Old 10-26-2009, 04:22 PM   #14
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Thats because you guys make it difficult...........every time you guys hook up a joint or 2 ,you braze it.Don't do that

Complete the entire stage at least before you even light the torch.

The only exception maybe is a difficult evap.
Then how would the shielding gas pass through the compressor to low/high side if you had the entire loop closed off?
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Old 10-26-2009, 04:53 PM   #15
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through the condenser
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Old 10-26-2009, 07:22 PM   #16
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Thats because you guys make it difficult...........every time you guys hook up a joint or 2 ,you braze it.Don't do that

Complete the entire stage at least before you even light the torch.

The only exception maybe is a difficult evap.
X100. It is one of the hardest things to get people to do, even "expeirenced" HVAC techs.

I start were the N2 comes in at and follow the flow of gas.
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