OK so, I mounted all my W/C parts and mobo with the block.
My setup is Swiftech Micro res>MCP655>Apogee GTZ block>MCR320-QP rad>res
1st)How do you get exact measurements to fit the tubing? Use like a rope and then place it on the tubing (kinda like an outline) and then cut?
2) How much water is needed for the whole setup? I mean looking at the res, if that is filled, its not going to be enough to supply the rad/tubing/block with water at once. or is it?
3) When do you pour in the water? What is the procedure.
Thanks
I will post pics of my worklog later tonight. Who wants some?
1- i put one end on a barb and run it to the next barb and cut with alil extra. You could always trim, but cant add more tubing.
2- usually 1 gallon of distilled water will be enough.
3- jump the psu, so it only power up the pump. Add water to res and turn on the psu. When the water is almost out, turn it off and add more water. Repeat until system appears to be full. Make sure the pump always have water, running it dry will damage it. After is appears to be full, cap the res and tilt case to dislodge any bubbles and top off your res for leak test/air bleeding.
1. there is no exact measurement, just run the tubing from one piece to roughly the other, and cut with a little extra, you can always cut it back a bit.
2. a gallon of distilled water, i have a gallon for my loop... and i have a fairly large loop, and i didnt even use a 1/4 gallon of water... they come in gallon sizes anyways..
3. fill up res, turn on pump, when res is almost empty, turn off. repeat untill full. shake to dislodge bubbles, be sure to leak test!!!
basically what jim0ne said... repeated
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Alright, so the procedure to filling up is what I had in mind.
Empty means that the water lvl is lower than the outlet of the res to the pump (basically never run the pump dry).
Also, how tight should the fittings be? lol
Edit:: I still use my good ol Arctic Silver 5 to make contact right?
Also, I can take off the fitings on the swiftec apogee GTZ and put in my own right?
EDIT2;:: Once I put the tubing on the barbs, is it alright to take it off again? Because I wanna cut and place everything, then dissasemble to clean and then put everything back. So is it going to be OK?
Location: Back and forth between Arizona and Florida
Posts: 2,701
You should be okay just finger tightening the fittings - obviously get them tight, but then make sure you leak test
Arctic Silver is fine, although many are using MX-2 (or I think there is a newer version). There is a thread here comparing TIMs - I don't have time to search right now.
You can put your own fitting on the GTZ, but you will be safer if you use the Swiftech o-rings on your fittings, as they are a tad thicker.
It's okay to take the tubing off, but you should be careful taking it off of your waterblocks. Better to leave it a little long and just take off the ends of the rads/pump/res as needed. Better yet, just clean everything out before you start. You can also run your loop outside your case to leak test and rinse everything. Then drain your loop, install in your case and redo the leak testing.
Always leak test anytime you change tubing or barbs, and you'll be okay!
I tighten all my fittings into the block finger tight (as much torque as fingers allow) then use a wrench to turn only 1/4 turn (90°) more.
In regards to taking the tubing off, it depends on the tubing internal diameter (ID) and barb outside diameter OD). I use 3/8" ID hose on 1/2" OD barbs for extra secutity. However, I cannot remove the hose once on the barb unless it is cut by a razor blade first.
Last edited by BrokenArrow; 10-01-2009 at 02:17 PM.
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