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Old 09-28-2009, 05:53 PM   #1
Armitage
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Dead Pump?

Was sitting in my room watching tv with my computer on (Brand new setup)

I started to hear a weird noise and kind of ignored it. Heard it more and then took action. Temp monitor was way too high. Now there is no water flowing through and all I hear is like a small "gulp, gulp"

It's brand new, what could be the cause? I don't think it over heated, it's right behind the fans pushing through the Rad.

Specs are here :

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=232229

I hope I got to it before anything got damaged.
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Old 09-28-2009, 06:08 PM   #2
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Ouch, last thing you want to happen on a just finished build

I had one of my 655's just stop for no reason, striped it down, flushed it and then turned it on for a couple of seconds out of the loop, it worked fine, so re-installed it and it was fine from there on in.

Did you flush all of your parts, especially the rad before you put everything together?

As you said in your build log "After leak testing for 3 hours, everything seemed to be fine. Was going to do 24 hours but decided against it. Hope I don't regret it later. Started to install everything else"

Especially as this is your 1st WC build......there is a reason for a 24hr leak test

Fingers crossed it isn't anything too major.
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Old 09-28-2009, 06:12 PM   #3
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I had a 655 do the same thing. I left comp shut down for a couple of days and turned it back on. It was fine from then on.

+1 on Equine. There is a reason why it's good to do a longer test. Sometimes leaks take some time to form.
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Old 09-28-2009, 06:23 PM   #4
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Looks like I'm not the only one who had a pump stop for no reason. My MCP355 stopped the first day of my current build. Checked all connections, restarted and it was fine. Been running 24/7 for a year now with no further issues.

I have no real advice for OP, sorry
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Old 09-28-2009, 06:24 PM   #5
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I flushed the Rad, I didn't flush the parts, I wasn't aware I needed to. The computer has been on for less then 24 hours I believe. I don't see the possibility of that much build up from the top quality components I purchased. But we will find out when I take the pump out

I never had a leak outside of the leak test.

And It's not as if I expected the pump to die like I would a leak :P.

I'm going to take it back into work and see what I can do.
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Old 09-28-2009, 06:54 PM   #6
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I keep some of these around, for when I need to take something out of my loop. Saves having to drain it completely.

When I am leak testing I don't like to let it run overnight, just incase something goes awry. I will bleed it, get it up to pressure and let it run for several hours. Then next mnorning throughly inspect all the paper towels for any sign of drips. If all is OK will start it up again and let it run again for several hours.

A couple of hours into the next days' testing a XSPC rad I had suddenly started leaking like crazy, I thanked my lucky stars that all I had connected was my loop
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Old 09-28-2009, 07:05 PM   #7
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ALL 3 of my 355's have done this, quite annoying actually especially when they are pumping on the GPU loop. mine are all using different aftermarket tops, one uses XSPC clear top one uses Petras black top and one uses EK clear top and they all do it sstill sometimes. idk if its because the tops are not right but they stop usually upn a full power down if i leave it on all the time they run flawless if i tap the side of the pump they startup and run no problem glad to see its not just mine i was getting angry thinking i got 3 bunk pumps. each one is of the different impeller revision, one brown, one blue one black. tell me who is using aftermarket tops?? how tight are they? have you tried loosening them??
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Old 09-28-2009, 07:16 PM   #8
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I wouldn't bother tearing down. I would try turning it on a few days later.
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Old 09-28-2009, 07:19 PM   #9
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I have been bleeding it for the entire time, is that bad? I was still noticing air bubbles and pockets etc. I didn't think that having the fill port on the res could hurt anything, logically I don't see how it could.
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Old 09-28-2009, 07:29 PM   #10
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Did you try jiggling molex connection and making sure it is ok. btw my leak tests are 15 mins, and will never be any longer on 10+ watercooled builds/rebuilds. Only leak I ever had was a gpu seal that gave way after about 1-2 months. And air bubbles are normal for first day or 3 when bleeding with reservoir.

I have 2 swiftech 355's, never had one fail to start or shutdown except over past 3 years, except one that had bad/loose molex connection, but that problem went away when that was fixed. I use S3 sleep mode, so my computer gets turned on/off about 10x per day, pumps always start.
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Old 09-28-2009, 07:35 PM   #11
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sounds like the inlet of your pump has a massive air pocket, which is causing the impellor to make stupid noises slapping water and air about. which also leads to no flow when theres air around there.
i bled my new system last night with my d5 and everytime i got a massive chunk of air (t-line no res) through to the pump inlet before i could turn off pump quick enough to bleed, it would make a louder running noise and sounds wierd, with little to no flow.
try lifting part of the case up so the inlet to pump tube is higher going away from the pump, this will make the air bubble (if im right) move out of the pump and up the hose.
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Old 09-28-2009, 07:37 PM   #12
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I had trouble with a loose molex and my cpu loop pump not starting on permafrost for a while, had to pull apart and re-plug the connector to get it to start up a few times then the issue just disappeared, so I didnt think much of it.
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Old 09-28-2009, 07:38 PM   #13
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Well it's not that it wouldn't start. It just randomly stopped pumping water. I don't think it over heated. It wasn't that hot when I touched it, and has fans blowing on it. Also, everytime I try to start the pump - it just never grabs any water. I can't feel any flow into the components at all.

I am going to try it again tomorrow morning, if that doesn't work Ill send gary an email. Or gabe. I hope they will take it back with a sleeved cable :|
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Old 09-28-2009, 07:43 PM   #14
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Cut the sleeving off.

I would check the tightness of the top then. IIRC, XSPC tops can be overtightened. Not certain about EKs.
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Old 09-28-2009, 07:51 PM   #15
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Ok, I just tried turning my computer completely over to see if the air pockets changed. Still the same problem.

It's making like a weird noise, best way I can describe it is if you have ever heard a dying Hard Drive, and you can hear the seek arm malfunctioning. Thats exactly what it sounds like.
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Old 09-29-2009, 07:17 AM   #16
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I'd definately strip it down and make sure there is nothing blocking the impeller. Turning it on for a split second will let you see if it moves freely. If it spins OK, then you will just have to re-asemble bit by bit and keep testing.
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Old 09-29-2009, 08:05 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Equinediver View Post
I'd definately strip it down and make sure there is nothing blocking the impeller. Turning it on for a split second will let you see if it moves freely. If it spins OK, then you will just have to re-asemble bit by bit and keep testing.
Wouldn't it be feasible to just send it back to gary? I assume since it's still in the 30 day, and it broke the 2nd day I was using it that I can send it back.

Not that I am scared to play and see if I can get it working. But I'd rather not get it working and have it break again, just in case.

I think I am going to email him today and see what I can do.
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Old 09-29-2009, 02:43 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Armitage View Post
Wouldn't it be feasible to just send it back to gary? I assume since it's still in the 30 day, and it broke the 2nd day I was using it that I can send it back.

Not that I am scared to play and see if I can get it working. But I'd rather not get it working and have it break again, just in case.

I think I am going to email him today and see what I can do.
Seeing he is moving, it might take him a little extra time to get a new one out. Seeing you have to break it down anyways. I would just break it down, check impeller, and make certain top wasn't overtightened. It could be something simple that will save you the hassle of sending it back.
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Old 09-29-2009, 05:16 PM   #19
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Yah. Going to do that on Thursday
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Old 09-29-2009, 09:59 PM   #20
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Personally, it sounds to me like you've got a massive vapor lock (bubble) in the pump and that HDD like sound your hearing is small bubbles being pushed through. Some bubbles can be really stubborn when they want to be. When you pull the loop apart, do a mini loop with just the res and pump and just watch it for a while. I think the res may be allowing bubbles to get sucked in and while you where still well within the bleeding time frame, a massive bubble popped out from the rad or one of the blocks and most of it got sucked right back into the pump causing the vapor lock.
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Old 09-30-2009, 09:20 AM   #21
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Ty Ty waterlogged

I am going to try all this when I drain it. Hopefully I can actually pull the pump off ;P
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Old 09-30-2009, 09:34 AM   #22
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have you tried starting just the pump @ 5th speed setting?
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Old 10-01-2009, 03:16 PM   #23
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The verdict is in an it's nasty :

http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/1893/37615498.jpg
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Old 10-01-2009, 03:32 PM   #24
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Damn, that sucks.
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Old 10-01-2009, 09:21 PM   #25
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Damn, that's FUGLY! Was there any coolant in the bottom of the pump when you pulled it apart? Was the top tight enough and was the o-ring installed?
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