koolance 330

[Asgard_thor]

I have this block, and I am planing to use it.

I know there is Alu on it, but I'm not aware if it touches the water, if it does I will have to use different coolant

Thanks XS

[NaeKuh]

you should use a good anti corrosion agent.

i would honestly use a aftermarket innovotek coolant, not mixed, or the koolance coolant not mixed once again.

Also try not to mess with the barbs too much on that guy after you screwed them on. I heard the top plating is very prone to cracking.

[Asgard_thor]

I have hydra stuff on the way :/
and G11, but I doubt I could mix them

as the color scheme is blue and black :/ green won't work very well :/ lol

[NaeKuh]

use the premixes...

my best recomendation..

dont mix it yourself, unless you add in redline water wetter...

^ is very nasty stuff tho...

[Asgard_thor]

guess that means the loop will be green :/


G11(blue) + hydra(green)= still work? :P

[Eddie3dfx]

I use redline in my car, so I figured I'd try it in the loop.

Biggg mistake. It coats the components with a film that is almost impossible to get off.

[OggeOJ]

Oh beat it. Ive been running copper/alu for a year, and nothing has happened. Not even stuff on the block, cleaned it and changed water/tubing two weeks ago.

[generics_user]

guess that means the loop will be green :/


G11(blue) + hydra(green)= still work? :P

G11 + distilled water is a better choice

[Asgard_thor]

G11 + distilled water is a better choice

Ill try that

[MpG]

I've got that block on my shelf. Not a particularly good block, tbh. Top is anodized aluminum I believe, and Koolance explicitly states that they won't warranty their products if you weren't using their coolant, which contains liberal doses of anti-corrosives/glycol. So definitely use some sort of anti-corrosive, just in case.

[Chruschef]

Oh beat it. Ive been running copper/alu for a year, and nothing has happened. Not even stuff on the block, cleaned it and changed water/tubing two weeks ago.

you probably just got lucky. do some reading.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion

if you mix aluminum and copper, galvanic corrosion will occur eventually, its just a question of when. Even with additives it will happen eventually. The only thing you can do is slow down the process.

[MpG]

Doubtful that luck had anything to do with it. But there are several ways to prevent galvanization, even without anti-corrosives, so it's possible that he either deliberately or accidentally did one of those things.

[Chruschef]

Doubtful that luck had anything to do with it. But there are several ways to prevent galvanization, even without anti-corrosives, so it's possible that he either deliberately or accidentally did one of those things.

probably..... none the less, eventually you will get galvanic corrosion after a long time.

[NaeKuh]

Ethylene Gylocol IS NOT A COMPLETE ANTI CORROSION AGENT.. Its first function is BIOCIDE/Frost Point lower in the concentrations we normally use... (1:10) maybe also help lube your pump by adding viscosity...

Its not a COMPLETE AntiCorrosion agent for a mix loop... Trust me ive seen Corrosion happen with Antifreeze and mixings metals...

And if you do want the Anti Corrosive properties, you need a HIGH concentration... like 3:10 ...

NO OP, for once im gonna recomend a Premix.... the 2 company i recomended have there ratios down when it comes to mixing metals...

I use redline in my car, so I figured I'd try it in the loop.

Biggg mistake. It coats the components with a film that is almost impossible to get off.

Yeah which is why i said its nasty stuff...
Fluid XP used a simular compound and got that nasty film also..

Fluid XP+ will work too OP. If you want the special colors...
Fesser would work also.. however im getting mix reports from them..

In short... Go with the PREMIX coolants, unless you are gonna physically add in water wetter.

Doubtful that luck had anything to do with it. But there are several ways to prevent galvanization, even without anti-corrosives, so it's possible that he either deliberately or accidentally did one of those things.

lol sacrifical zinc node somewhere on the loop?

[Asgard_thor]

:/
Well I guess i will use this as my temp block for now
anyone know a good-(COMPLETELY ALU FREE), that doesn't cost me a arm and a leg :P

[NaeKuh]

:/
Well I guess i will use this as my temp block for now
anyone know a good-(COMPLETELY ALU FREE), that doesn't cost me a arm and a leg :P

XSPC Rev.3

D-tek Fusion..

ApogeeGT

OCZ Freezer block.


All 4 are great, and are very affordable.

[MpG]

lol sacrifical zinc node somewhere on the loop?

What, you've never had that happen? You get distracted, and the next thing you know, a sneaky piece of zinc jumps into your loop?

You never know, it's not impossible that he might have managed to isolate the two metals from each other (dammit, brain failure, can't remember the proper term for it) so there's no battery action going on. Pretty hard to do, though.

And if you do want the Anti Corrosive properties, you need a HIGH concentration... like 3:10

That Koolance stuff will stink up an entire house with Eau de Glycol if you spill it, so I have my suspicions about it. Even if you don't spill any, I swear the smell leaks through the tubing.

[OggeOJ]

you probably just got lucky. do some reading.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion

if you mix aluminum and copper, galvanic corrosion will occur eventually, its just a question of when. Even with additives it will happen eventually. The only thing you can do is slow down the process.

Of course i know about galvanic elements. But it seems like everyone around here wants to shoot you if you even mention aluminium.

Some guy in here mentioned using a sacrificial anode. Would it work?

[NaeKuh]

Of course i know about galvanic elements. But it seems like everyone around here wants to shoot you if you even mention aluminium.

Some guy in here mentioned using a sacrificial anode. Would it work?

that was me. and yes it will work.

you would need an anode between your alu and copper i believe and it would work...

But to go though all that, your better off changing the alu to copper...

[demonkevy666]

http://www.legitreviews.com/article/711/1/

block inside is gold plated.

[MpG]

The base is plated, to keep the copper from contacting the coolant. But I don't believe the top is, since there's technically no need in a Koolance loop.

[systemviper]

I loved this block and used it for over a year with no problems, i am not sure whzt is alu but it isn't anything that comes into contact with water.

I liked it so much i got the 340 and now i am getting the 355, Koolance rocks

[HotGore]

Plating is fine until you scratch it, or it begins to chip off.

[systemviper]

Plating is fine until you scratch it, or it begins to chip off.

But if you look at it, the alu is anodized and just a top on a copper housing, it's not anything that comes in contact with water it's the top but it has a copper housing all around hte water chamber, so no amount of scratching can make any diference.
Unless it starts raining

Materials High Density Copper, 21k Gold Plating, Anodized Aluminum

Put heatpipes to shame. The CHC-120-V10 is designed to provide high efficiency liquid cooling for motherboard northbridge chipsets. Versatile mounting hardware allows the CHC-120-V10 to cool almost all types of mainboards. Materials are solid copper with 21k gold plating and anodized aluminum top.