Last edited by naelq; 06-16-2006 at 11:47 PM.
hey guys... if i were to break of a capacitor, would i be able to reconnect it with conductive ink and tape?
note: i have already broke it and glues it back on.
btw, it's the one on the same side as the pci-x power plug, but on the opposite corner...
is this actually needed for anything?
Asus P5B-Deluxe 0614
Conroe E6400 @ 2.56ghz
Team Xtreem DDR2 2x1GB @ 900
ATI X1900XTX // MC14 Ramsinks -DEAD- Using spare 7900gt now
Hitachi 80gb | Hitachi 80gb | Seagate 320gb
Mountainmods U2-UFO Original Black \\ BenQ DVD-RAM
Corsair Hx620
Swiftech Storm r2 \\ Swiftech MCW60 \\ Swiftech MCW30 \\ Thermochill PA120.3 \\ Swiftech MCRES Micro \\ DDC+ Plexi Top
Heatware | Guide To Current WaterCooling Components | Guide To WaterCooling and Leak Testing
i think my new 7900gt is dying ...it started artifacting badly in deep freeze...most time s when this happens ...the card is going to die in a few days...i'll rma it again and buy an x1900gt ...
[ASUS p5b deluxe @801][Allendale E6400 @ 1.51v 420x8]
[ x1800xt 256 1.2ns ][teamgroup pc6400 ddr840 4-4-4-10 2.25v]
[liquidcooled by Ybris-cooling][ Antec TC 2.0 550w ][centurion 530 mod + noise isolator black]
Someone knows his electronics much better then I do... so here's the thing.. What's the difference between a 524 svp 180/16 cap (purple one) and the PS 548 180/16 cap (green/blue one)
180 stands for 180uF and 16 for 1,6volts....
So far it seems both are build by Sanyo.. but does the number 524/548 stand for it's resistor or is it just a part number.. does the color stand for different materials used or is it something else..?
Edit: On the large Club3D 7900GT image the caps have the numbers A 514 180/16
Last edited by NightCrawlerâ„¢; 06-17-2006 at 01:37 AM.
Lian Li V2000+ Modded
Intel Core I7 920 @ 3.8Ghz 1.325v Thermaltright Ultra 120 Extreme RT1366
Asus Rampage Extreme 2
OCZ 3x2GB DDR3 1600 Platinum
EVGA GTX460 768MB 850/1700/2100Mhz SLi
EVGA 8800GT SSC 730/1800/2000Mhz
Corsair HX850W
Can someone with a sparkle 7900 GT with the new caps measure the height and diameter of those caps?
http://shop.component-tecknology.co....ducts_id=32118
http://shop.component-tecknology.co....ducts_id=32117
I think one of those capacitors is the right one, but i don't know which one.
The rig
CPUs: E6300 ES B0 @ 3220 MHz w/1.35v orthos stable | E6600 B2 @ 3400 MHz w/1.43v --> Sold | Xeon 3050 L2 @ 3304 MHz w/1.45v orthos stable
MoBo: Asus P5K-E WiFi-AP @ 520 x * orthos stable
Graphics: 256 MB Connect 3D Radeon X1900XT @ 661/828 (core/mem)
RAM: 2 x 1 GB Team Xtreem PC2 5300 @ DDR1010 4-4-4-8 / DDR1100 5-5-5-12 w/2.25v orthos stable
HDDs: 300 GB (16 MB Cache) and 80 GB Maxtor Diamondmax 10 drives
Optical: NEC ND3500AG DVD +/- RW
PSU: Antec True Power 2.0 550W
H2O
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Waiting for
Nehalem
LOL..LOL.. OMFG.. ROFLOriginally Posted by ReD.SkY
NoOriginally Posted by NightCrawler™
read: http://www.secc.co.jp/pdf/2005/oscon/e/e54.pdf
http://www.saga-sanyo.co.jp/oscon/cg...ode.cgi?id=SVP
524 svp 180/16 cap = (either one, depending on dimensions)
16SVP180MX 16 180 30 3020 0.12 576
16SVP180M 16 180 20 3640 0.15 576
524 is the lot code, SVP is the series, 180 is the capacitance in uF, 16 is the volts in V.
Additionally from the datasheet we find its either 20/30 mOhm ESR, high 3-3.6A ripple current. Similar to Ron of transister, the ESR is important because its how much energy in the circuit will be lost as heat, and thus you want low ESR. The high ripple current allows the capacitor to handle large surges of power needed, particularly as there are large spikes in discharge like when row refresh of memory. Bigger is better.
PS 548 180/16 cap
Are you certain it is Sanyo. They have no "PS" series, although they do have "SP".
Last edited by ***Deimos***; 06-17-2006 at 07:05 AM.
24/7: A64 3000+ (\_/) @2.4Ghz, 1.4V
1 GB OCZ Gold (='.'=) 240 2-2-2-5
Giga-byte NF3 (")_(") K8NSC-939
XFX 6800 16/6 NV5 @420/936, 1.33V
so will any of the capacitors i suggested above work?Originally Posted by ***Deimos***
The rig
CPUs: E6300 ES B0 @ 3220 MHz w/1.35v orthos stable | E6600 B2 @ 3400 MHz w/1.43v --> Sold | Xeon 3050 L2 @ 3304 MHz w/1.45v orthos stable
MoBo: Asus P5K-E WiFi-AP @ 520 x * orthos stable
Graphics: 256 MB Connect 3D Radeon X1900XT @ 661/828 (core/mem)
RAM: 2 x 1 GB Team Xtreem PC2 5300 @ DDR1010 4-4-4-8 / DDR1100 5-5-5-12 w/2.25v orthos stable
HDDs: 300 GB (16 MB Cache) and 80 GB Maxtor Diamondmax 10 drives
Optical: NEC ND3500AG DVD +/- RW
PSU: Antec True Power 2.0 550W
H2O
Swiftech MCR220-QP | Laing D5 | AquaXtreme MP-05 Pro LE | DangerDen Maze 4 LP | 2 x 120mm NoiseBlocker SX1 fans
Lappy
MSI MS1022 14.1" Widescreen Barebone | Celeron-M 360 1.4 GHz @ 1.86 GHz / Pentium M 715A | GeForce 6200 Go | 80 GB Fujitsu HDD | Sony DVD +/- RW
Waiting for
Nehalem
i ordered a xfx 7900gt (470/1370 version) yesterday before i read all this obviously. Should arrive monday. Let's see if they fixed the problem
Originally Posted by NightCrawlerâ„¢
Thats kind of funny, because the BBATI X1900XTX I have, makes the same noise in 3dmark05, so I got a 7950GX2 to replace it.. I couldnt have been happier.
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My X1600 pro makes the noise I'm almost damn sure. does it in 2d 2. FPs related. Gah wanna rma but I threw away my Anti-Static bag so I'm stuck heh.Originally Posted by arisythila
I thought of switching to nvidia but I guess they make the same noise...
my 7900gtx makes no such noise, although my evga 7900gt didnt do it either, but it still got VERY hot around that area you guys are talking about. my first 7900gt was actually RMAed so that coulde been the problem with the first 7900gt I got from evga...
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yah... i guess the way i reattached it mustve worked then lol
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Guys, the noise does not necessarily mean there is an issue. Many different points can emit the same noise even.
All along the watchtower the watchmen watch the eternal return.
This one looks to be better (higher ripple current, and lower ESR... but 2000h lifetime):
From £2.26
CAPACITOR
180UF 16V
Ext. Width:8.3mm
Resistance, ESR:22mR
Quantity, reel:400
Ext. Depth:8.3mm
SMD:1
Case/Package:E12
ØDia body:8mm
Length / Height, external:7mm
Time, operating life:2000h
Current, ripple AC:3480mA
I'm no electronics expert, but such "large" (relatively) capacitors are typically used to filter out high frequency noise, for voltage smoothing. But, before making any modifications is always best to know for sure. You need to get datasheets on the voltage controlers, and surrounding components, especially inductors (coils of wire, or big flat boxes) and power transistors (SOP 8pin package, or the ones with pins on one side only). 180uF seems too large for compensation network, feedback or parasitic capacitors...
Judging by the fact that with extreme cooling, some folks are able to overclock such high-end cars well into double digits %, you'd think they did a remarkable job on the power system. Almost always the problem is elsewhere... they usually design it very good.
Any PCB electronics designers around here to shed some light?
24/7: A64 3000+ (\_/) @2.4Ghz, 1.4V
1 GB OCZ Gold (='.'=) 240 2-2-2-5
Giga-byte NF3 (")_(") K8NSC-939
XFX 6800 16/6 NV5 @420/936, 1.33V
Hey guys, I ordered a new 7900GT which came today.
Inno3D, and it has purple capacitors
The rig
CPUs: E6300 ES B0 @ 3220 MHz w/1.35v orthos stable | E6600 B2 @ 3400 MHz w/1.43v --> Sold | Xeon 3050 L2 @ 3304 MHz w/1.45v orthos stable
MoBo: Asus P5K-E WiFi-AP @ 520 x * orthos stable
Graphics: 256 MB Connect 3D Radeon X1900XT @ 661/828 (core/mem)
RAM: 2 x 1 GB Team Xtreem PC2 5300 @ DDR1010 4-4-4-8 / DDR1100 5-5-5-12 w/2.25v orthos stable
HDDs: 300 GB (16 MB Cache) and 80 GB Maxtor Diamondmax 10 drives
Optical: NEC ND3500AG DVD +/- RW
PSU: Antec True Power 2.0 550W
H2O
Swiftech MCR220-QP | Laing D5 | AquaXtreme MP-05 Pro LE | DangerDen Maze 4 LP | 2 x 120mm NoiseBlocker SX1 fans
Lappy
MSI MS1022 14.1" Widescreen Barebone | Celeron-M 360 1.4 GHz @ 1.86 GHz / Pentium M 715A | GeForce 6200 Go | 80 GB Fujitsu HDD | Sony DVD +/- RW
Waiting for
Nehalem
So what I'm understanding here is, since mine's got minty green caps, it's going to die on me one of these days?
hopefully not, some mint/blue caps cards are doing well.... luck is also important...
i have green caps, and the only problems i have is 3dmark03... my speed @ 1.55v run flawlessly on 01/05/06 over a week but on 03 i have to lower the speed so low... games running fine.. arround a month nothing happened..
If it's based on the premise that minty green/blue caps are bad, and will lead to card failure, chalk me up on there too! Lots of dead cards here
i got mine yesterday. All is fine for me. I got a black pcb xfx. and all is going great. The thingies that are pointed out to get extremely hot, don't really get that hot on my card. i can touch them easy (they feel warm but not hot) Also card is doing 520/750 without any problem (i bought the 470/660 version) No artifacts after several hours of oblivion and 3dmark03 testing.
this one to be exect
My card wont clock for though. Getting rid of it
The rig
CPUs: E6300 ES B0 @ 3220 MHz w/1.35v orthos stable | E6600 B2 @ 3400 MHz w/1.43v --> Sold | Xeon 3050 L2 @ 3304 MHz w/1.45v orthos stable
MoBo: Asus P5K-E WiFi-AP @ 520 x * orthos stable
Graphics: 256 MB Connect 3D Radeon X1900XT @ 661/828 (core/mem)
RAM: 2 x 1 GB Team Xtreem PC2 5300 @ DDR1010 4-4-4-8 / DDR1100 5-5-5-12 w/2.25v orthos stable
HDDs: 300 GB (16 MB Cache) and 80 GB Maxtor Diamondmax 10 drives
Optical: NEC ND3500AG DVD +/- RW
PSU: Antec True Power 2.0 550W
H2O
Swiftech MCR220-QP | Laing D5 | AquaXtreme MP-05 Pro LE | DangerDen Maze 4 LP | 2 x 120mm NoiseBlocker SX1 fans
Lappy
MSI MS1022 14.1" Widescreen Barebone | Celeron-M 360 1.4 GHz @ 1.86 GHz / Pentium M 715A | GeForce 6200 Go | 80 GB Fujitsu HDD | Sony DVD +/- RW
Waiting for
Nehalem
how much are you getting out of it?Originally Posted by K.I.T.T.
i stopped at 520/750 for a while to test later on. so far so good.
stuck at 550/790. Was hoping for more.
The rig
CPUs: E6300 ES B0 @ 3220 MHz w/1.35v orthos stable | E6600 B2 @ 3400 MHz w/1.43v --> Sold | Xeon 3050 L2 @ 3304 MHz w/1.45v orthos stable
MoBo: Asus P5K-E WiFi-AP @ 520 x * orthos stable
Graphics: 256 MB Connect 3D Radeon X1900XT @ 661/828 (core/mem)
RAM: 2 x 1 GB Team Xtreem PC2 5300 @ DDR1010 4-4-4-8 / DDR1100 5-5-5-12 w/2.25v orthos stable
HDDs: 300 GB (16 MB Cache) and 80 GB Maxtor Diamondmax 10 drives
Optical: NEC ND3500AG DVD +/- RW
PSU: Antec True Power 2.0 550W
H2O
Swiftech MCR220-QP | Laing D5 | AquaXtreme MP-05 Pro LE | DangerDen Maze 4 LP | 2 x 120mm NoiseBlocker SX1 fans
Lappy
MSI MS1022 14.1" Widescreen Barebone | Celeron-M 360 1.4 GHz @ 1.86 GHz / Pentium M 715A | GeForce 6200 Go | 80 GB Fujitsu HDD | Sony DVD +/- RW
Waiting for
Nehalem
any new guys? to GT or not to GT?
to GT for sure
Asus P5B-Deluxe 0614
Conroe E6400 @ 2.56ghz
Team Xtreem DDR2 2x1GB @ 900
ATI X1900XTX // MC14 Ramsinks -DEAD- Using spare 7900gt now
Hitachi 80gb | Hitachi 80gb | Seagate 320gb
Mountainmods U2-UFO Original Black \\ BenQ DVD-RAM
Corsair Hx620
Swiftech Storm r2 \\ Swiftech MCW60 \\ Swiftech MCW30 \\ Thermochill PA120.3 \\ Swiftech MCRES Micro \\ DDC+ Plexi Top
Heatware | Guide To Current WaterCooling Components | Guide To WaterCooling and Leak Testing
in terms of this annoying artifacting symptom?
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