AS Adhesive

[Hardass]

I am going to put digidoc sensor on chip using AS thermal adhesive need to know how many parts of A to mix with how many parts of B. And if i get it on something what do i use to take it off?

[JBELL]

go 50/50


if you want to remove it later - go more silver than hardener....

[Hardass]

Originally posted by JBELL
go 50/50


if you want to remove it later - go more silver than hardener....

This stuff comes off with alcohol right.

[DaGooch]

Originally posted by Hardass


This stuff comes off with alcohol right.

More like a Jackhammer if you use too much catalyst(da stinky tube).

[Hardass]

Originally posted by DaGoochMeister


More like a Jackhammer if you use too much catalyst(da stinky tube).

which one is which? got bright silver and dark silver.

[Smizack]

Originally posted by Hardass


which one is which? got bright silver and dark silver.

Heh. "(da stinky tube)"

I think the catalyst is the darker. Am I right guys?

And if you go 50/50 plan on it staying there permenantly.

[DexterHolland91]

Alcohol will do nothing to remove the epoxy (AS adhesive). And I wouldn't mess around with the ratio of tube stuff... if you want to weaken the bond, still use 50/50 but mix in a small ratio of regular arctic silver. Infact I think there are some instructions on their website.

[Silversink]

If you want it to be easily removeable use this formula:

30% Part A adhesive

30% Part B adhesive

40% Arctic Silver 2 or 3

(50% adhesive 50% a-s thermal paste also works but its easier with the first formula) For weight bearing 50% or more Adhesive is recommended)


The only way to remove Arctic Silver(or Alumina) Adhesive full strength is using the Freezer trick, and trust me Ive always been able to remove it with the exception of silversinks, as the base of silver is Thin and theres no way to remove the silver base as there not any way to get any leverage to remove them.

[Hardass]

Thanks for the info.

[DexterHolland91]

Silversink hit it on the head, that first formula he gave will make the epoxy about the strength of thermal interface material.

[LORD]

If you plan to use AS epoxy on tiny BGA ram like on the ti 4600 etc. You'd want to make a mix that had fairly weak adhesion properties I'd say. For the possibility of removal later on.

This is what I was thinking of using, rather than frag tape as I have done at the moment with my TT sinks.

[Hardass]

I purchased my 4600 already modded, the guy used a pure white adhesive, i popped the fan off with no effort at all. No tools just finger pressure but it was hell to clean off.

[LORD]

He probably made his own thermal adhesive. By using some sort of epoxy and adding silicon thermal paste.

I've made some that way before and the residue that was left was also extremely hard to remove. Worked well though.

[Chong345]

yeah I used the adhesive at 50/50 and it ain't never comin' off. Sucks too cause now I have a crystal orb stuck on the gpu forever and have no chance of really cooling it.

[LORD]

Originally posted by Chong345
yeah I used the adhesive at 50/50 and it ain't never comin' off. Sucks too cause now I have a crystal orb stuck on the gpu forever and have no chance of really cooling it.

You might be able to do the freeze method. Place it an a anti static bag and seal it. Place it in the freezer for 10 - 15 min.

When you take it out try and see if it'll pop off. With a litle prying. However be careful and remember you do it at your own risk.......:prod:

[DexterHolland91]

Yeah because once it's in the freezer the metal connects on the GPU will be very brittle... when prying MAKE SURE to turn the screwdriver, DO NOT pry back and forth. You should be using torque to pop the sink off. I doubt the epoxy will come off unless you get it very cold. Hehe just wanted to try this out

[N8]

lol, i used AATE on a GPU that I stuck a CPU cooler to and after 1 hr in the freezer and 20 mins in a vise....i still never got the SOB off

Ended up selling it w/ the CPU cooler on it.