How will you connect the core with the shell, TIG weld it ?
How will you connect the core with the shell, TIG weld it ?
Are you going to be sand casting it or using the microwave forge?
Pics plz!
"Lost wax method" thats what the bees wax is for.
I assumed like wdrzal said "Lost wax method". Did you make a little blast furnace out of a paint can and a burner like the mini mongo? Or are you using the microwave method? Or just a acyetlene torch?
Please post some pics during your casting process. A video would be even sweeter!
any update on this? I'm really interested in the outcome (holding the temps on load,...) of the silver evap...
Bumperoo! Hmm, must be a little cold in here, the thread got frozen waaaaay down here.
Two bars of silver disappeared somewhere between the states and the UK
As soon as paypal/ebay sort it out it will be back on track . I suspect the evap will take just over 10 oz, so I cant pour until I have a bit more than 10 to be on the safe side.
@ Berkut I was thinking to braze with 56% rods, tig better?
Regards
John.
P.s. I'll video the process
"Thermodynamics is a funny subject. The first time you go through it, you don't understand it at all. The second time you go through it, you think you understand it, except for one or two points. The third time you go through it, you know you don't understand it, but by that time you are so used to that subject, it doesn't bother you anymore".
I'm thinking if you have these silver brazing rods for more capacity and turbulence, what will happen to them when you start to braze the sleeve on the outside. Best case scenerio, maybe a lil droop?
I'm pretty sure the sleeve will hold just fine, since it is of purer quality, just thinking the rods inside won't make it..... something to ponder while waiting for more bullion.
What exactly is the cost of this silver evap block going to be, and what are the performance benifits? (besides the fact that it's freakin cool to have a silver evap!)
Thanks for that post Lost, it really got me thinking . But after a few hours research, I'm going to laser weld it to avoid that problem
Regards
John.
"Thermodynamics is a funny subject. The first time you go through it, you don't understand it at all. The second time you go through it, you think you understand it, except for one or two points. The third time you go through it, you know you don't understand it, but by that time you are so used to that subject, it doesn't bother you anymore".
You still haven't told us your melting method. Have you made your mould yet?
Moreover, if your mould seeps into the thing, how do you get it out?
Its lost wax, the evap is molded in wax, then silver rods pierce the evap down into the base. Next step is to pack all this with an "investment"----which is very much like plaster of paris.
The mould when set is then heated and the wax melts out, leaving the silver rods and a hollow where the wax was.
Next step is to pour the silver into the mold and then when hardened, you chip out the investment.
Then laser weld the sleeve over the evap.
Regards
John.
Sorry tulatin...........silver is probably around 10% better thermal conductor than copper, whether its cost effect depends on your point of view
"Thermodynamics is a funny subject. The first time you go through it, you don't understand it at all. The second time you go through it, you think you understand it, except for one or two points. The third time you go through it, you know you don't understand it, but by that time you are so used to that subject, it doesn't bother you anymore".
Gah, not envisioning this. I'm meaning how do you remove the wax when it's dug into the ridges on the sides of the evap. By reading your method what i get so far is that the wax is melted and the impression is left in a plasteresque casing?
You got it! When the mold is heated the wax pours out/evaporates, there arent any pockets of wax surrounded by plaster that cant escape
Regards
John.
"Thermodynamics is a funny subject. The first time you go through it, you don't understand it at all. The second time you go through it, you think you understand it, except for one or two points. The third time you go through it, you know you don't understand it, but by that time you are so used to that subject, it doesn't bother you anymore".
You make a positive mould out of the wax which would be your evap. You then coat this mould with a substance like plaster of paris, like pythagoras said. You leave a hole in the top to pour you silver into. You then heat this wax/plaster type casing to melt the wax out. So now when all the wax melts out, you have a negative impression inside of the plaster type substance. You pour your silver into this negative impression. Leave it solidify. When it cools you break away the plaster type substance away from your newly casted silver evap. And then was it off to get rid of any mould remains.
I understand but can't visualize (that's a when you think visually lol) I'll just wait for the pictorial
Will you be able to braze silver ? Arent you afraid of melting the evaporator ?
It will be laser welded Berkut, I can rent one for £80 per week, but I'm hoping I kind find someone that can let me use one for about an hour.
Regards
John.
"Thermodynamics is a funny subject. The first time you go through it, you don't understand it at all. The second time you go through it, you think you understand it, except for one or two points. The third time you go through it, you know you don't understand it, but by that time you are so used to that subject, it doesn't bother you anymore".
alloys usually melt at a lower temp then the base metal (silver) , jewlers and silver smiths braze(silver solder) pure silver all the time.
how much % silver do they use? ie, can you use 40% or does it have to be 50-55% or something?Originally Posted by wdrzal
any updates?
cant you just gas weld it with a very small flame (jewelers setup)?
Any updates?
update?
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