What would you reccomend for a ful watercooling setup on a limited budget. Would want blocks for a64 and 6600gtpci-e, a pump, radiator, reservoir and tubing. I was thinking of using a large car radiator externally as it would allow passive use, and would be very cheap, but for everything else I don't know where corners can be cut and where not. I'd be looking for a high performing, but more importantly silent system. Any suggestions.
In regards to the passive car rad.... Is there a shared wall with your garage so you can run the line out through the wall to this rad? If yes, your in great shape & can use a small pedistal fan to blow on it to boot without any noise in your puter area.
For a low budget set up I'd suggest you check into the classifieds at this site & others you may belong to for a used TDX block or other pretty high performance block for CPU & GPU. Same thing for your pump.
I picked up my MD20Z that way, got it with a second impellor head and all for less than a MD15 costs new. Nice
I'd also forgo the res and go with a T line for a fill point to also save cost. The res isn't really a requirement, just a nice plus that also makes for a fastert bleeding of air out of your loop.
I'd have to take the computer back and forth to uni, so the rad would have to be movable. Was thinking of just making feet for it, and possibly a frame so that its not too ghetto looking, but still transportable.
Passive and portable are extremely hard to do. Because passive means big. i'd suggest looking into a non-passive with near silent fans. Delta's on 5 volts work wonders!
If you have a cooling question or concern feel free to contact me.
Are pc watercooling components not generally a lot more expensive than the non pc specialised stuff that works exactly the same? Going for a pc radiator over a large radiator with better cooling potential would cost 3x as much (or more here in the uk), and I dont see why a reservoir cannot be made very cheaply by adding intake and outtakes to some general plastic containers. Its only really the waterblocks that need to be pc specialised isn't it?
basically you are correct. many people have made reservoirs out of rubbermaid and tupperware, the most common radiator you'll find comes from a 1977 Bonneville and the pump you can pick up at a pet store that sells aquarium equipment and while you're there you can also pick up your tubing, or at a hardware store. the water block is really the only piece that's specific to water cooling on PCs.
"premature optimization is the root of all evil" - Donald Knuth
<('_'<) <('_'^) (^'_'^) (^'_')> (>'_')> OMG ITS T3h POWER RANGERS!
This all depends on how good your temps need to be.
As for a rad I would suggest a BIP mounted in the front of your case with low speed 12cm fan shrouded and sucking air into the case. For a pump I would look at a hydor L20/25 or a Mag3. If your a handy man I would suggest submerging the pump into a hom built res (a plastic container is a great start). CPU block.... tough to beat a MCW6000, Graphics card I would say go with an old Polarflo GPU block off of ebay. They can be had for $15. Make sure you use a corrosion inhibitor (antifreeze). I'd go 1/2" if you can. It won't cost you a dime more and will give you better temps. Let's see what your total would be:
BIP+shroud: $35
Pump: Hydor L30 $35
Aluminum topped WW: (more appropriate for that pump) $39
Polarflow GPU: $15 (maybe?)
Tubing+res: $10 (go to home depot)
Your total: $134
Mod it, oc it, wash, rinse, repeat.
hydors are VERY leak-prone and poorly made pumps; my friend's is leaking from all over the place; polarflo GPU blocks will corrode your system all to hell unless you run something other than water (which you shouldn't); 5/8" T-Lines net better flow than 1/2" resivoirs (and are cheaper); alu topped WW will certainly corrode. Read the stickies for good suggestions.
I understand that you're aiming for cheap in the inexpensive sense of the word; but I'm trying to make sure you avoid the cheap in the crappy sense of the word.
If the hydor is submersed in a reservior, why worry about it leaking? I would not say they are poorly made. I have an L20 that has been running in a loop with a BIP and an MCW5000 for almost 2 years now. No problems. If you read pH's pump round up over on procooling, you'll see that he agrees that they are well made.
Everything I've ever read and experienced tells me that a well placed reservior will give the best possible flow rates. They are cheaper, though if you make a res on your own it should be pretty cheap.5/8" T-Lines net better flow than 1/2" resivoirs (and are cheaper);
Corrosion will be an issue in the system I suggested, that's why I suggested using an inhibitor. One must make sacrifices in pursuit of being cheap.
Mod it, oc it, wash, rinse, repeat.
Maxxx has measured evidence that pressure and flow loss with a 5/8" ID T-Line is less than that of a 1/2" ID reservoir.Originally Posted by Saleen
what about a 5/8 id res though?
That would be perfect. The larger diameter of the inlet will keep the impeller flooded, leading to the best possible flow rates.
Mod it, oc it, wash, rinse, repeat.
Ehiem 1250 pumps are nice for silence and fairly cheap two. However for the most silence the 1250 should be insulated from what its mounted on and then bolted down then you have a silent pump.
For GPU blocks I would go with the Dangerden Maze4 GPU. For CPU blocks the Swiftech 6002 is a great cheap choice.
Finally for rads a good Dual 12cm heatercore is hard to beat with some decent fans running at 7v for silence.
Last edited by speed bump; 07-24-2005 at 12:53 PM.
Saleen, 5/8" OD fittings on a res still is not as free flowing as a T-Line that is 5/8" I tested 1/2" and 5/8" on both. results are pretty conclusive. T-line for max flow.
MC50 should not even be considered as it uses aluminum. Swifty needs to come out with a better gpu block.. sheesh.
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