Cold boot issues on DFI, i need testers

[ninja_xxx]

"unreal stability on my rails" don't understand is that a good thing or bad

maybe i should just stay with my modstream...

[Snark42]

I believe he meant that as a good thing...
in this case "unreal"=hard to believe, pleasently surprised, very good, extremely.

[Crazykooter]

Yes means its good not bad. I have had a lot of PSU but this one is by far the best.

[Minnyboy]

Not sure if this is classed as a cold boot issue but here's what happened to my DFI rig just an hour ago:

My rig was working fine at 255HTT @ 1.47v with the 180 divider (was running prime95 & 3DMark03 loop beforehand & area around VC was getting hot so I decide to add a 12cm fan there,,,

Turned off PC to install a 12cm fan (to help airflow around VC)... Shut down rig, turn off switch on PSU (OCZ 520w) & proceed to install 12cm fan...

Installation done so I then proceed to turn on my rig... Get's to the part where XP is loading & then reboots constantly... WTF...

That's 3 or 4 times that's happened to me, the last few times were because I replaced the CPU & then had to reinstall XP because of this problem where I could not get into XP no matter what I did...

Luckily this time I was able to flash my bios & enter Windows without having to reformat to get anywhere...

It;s damn annoying as I have lost my OC & am back to running my CPU/Ram/VC back at default clocks... Have yet to try to OC it again...

Is this classed as the "cold-boot issue??"

Minh

[SIOUX]

we got some problems as well with 3700+SD. we got to boot 1 time. but after playing in win for 2 min, sudely the comp goes nuts. we see 28.1 mhz in CPU-Z and weird stuff like that. And then it just freezes, and we cant boot again. when we try it just gives us beeps. We tryed different BIOS without luck

3 of the leds stay on when we try to boot. sometimes it goes forward and bachward with 3 and 4 leds on....and then shut down.

[Ubermann]

Does the test bios solve the problem for anyone ?
Is it possible to solder a 3.3v line with a switch to kickstart ram when you boot ?
So i turn it on before i switch on computer so ram already has 3.3volt.
Then when it boots i can just switch it off..

[Nugz]

think of it this way guys
no matter what your "bad' stick has to cool down to about 20c or room temp befor it will boot again. dosnt matter if it's 20 min or 1 hour or a day. Just get it down to room temp.

this is caused bye what the DFI has done to the stick.

RMA time.

"THEN"
we still have the 2.5v being supplyed after the AC plug is conected and not give'n us 3.3v untill the BIOS gets loaded. then we can put the "bad" stick in and have 3.3v right after the power switch is hit.
thus booting both sticks @ 3.3v

Anyways
Peace Nugz

[Ubermann]

OMFG!
I have 2 sticks kreton VT that hasnt been working for 1 month soon and they both do 270fsb.
And i have 1 stick that is kinda bad and need place a good stick first and boot then switch off and replace it to boot fine.
Now i got brave and wanted to try the Booster in DFI NF4 (everyone says NO!! it will mess up the board)
So i put it into slot 1 and the "kinda bad" stick in slot 2, set it to 3.5 volt and push power button.
Booted on first try.
Tested some memtest and all is fine.
So i unwrapped my 2 kretons that i packed for RMA to send on monday.
Tested the first one.
Booted on first try, all fine in memtest (still new to NF4 so i dont know about ram strengh and stuff to tweak it to max)
Took out stick and put in the one that impossible to boot on DFI NF3 and NF4.
Booted on first try.
God im happy the good BH-5 sticks actually works!!!
Btw got 3200Venice and DFI NF4 Ultra-D

[mikead_99]

Well, unfortunately I can't really say if this has helped things for me or not. The board that has given me the most issues with the ram (3200VX) that gave me the most problems ran hitch free for a day or so. Since I really don't trust the mobo, it being the "warm boot" board mentioned above and since I got a replacement for it, I swapped mobos yesterday afternoon. Using VX and 3500+ Venice, things are going fine. Can't use yellow slots without errors, and orange took more tweaking than ever needed before, but I am also running the sticks Prime stable faster than they have in the past, with slightly tighter timings too. They would top out Prime stable in the 250's, but going at 260 now. Nothing stellar, but anything above 255 in the past was benchable only, no P95. Using +3.3V rail @ 3.7V and 3.45V on the DIMMS. No boot issue yet, but I'll keep trying.

edit to add: not sure where the added performance is from, +3.3V based VDimm, 510 based bios, or new mobo, but I'm certainly not complaining.

[_Eduard_]

I have this problem with my DFI Nf3 250gb, It won't boot with 2 sticks of bh-5 UTT no matter what voltage or timings, only @ 200mhz. And they do 260mhz 2-2-2 individually.

Now when i use my BH-6 i have cold boot issues too after testing the UTT, I press the on-switch, pc starts up with no screen, reboots and screen comes up again. Everything works fine but it is very weird

[p_huica]

@bigtoe and others on to "cold boot" and "ram killing" issues:

Hi,

I also have the cold boot issue and I'd like to help in finding a solution. I read all I could about it in these forums and over at dfi-street and I did some testing. This is what I did so far (D1 = DIMM1, D2 = DIMM2):

-> I was on bios 510-2, OCed at 240FSB, 2-2-2-6 @ 3.3V, JP17 on 5V, dual channel in orange slots

-> while in orange slots, if I cut the AC power, then I could only boot if I did the "1 good stick" trick -> D2 in slot2, reboot, power down, add D1 in slot4 => dual channel OK as long as I didn't cut off the AC power

-> then I learned about the "board that kills UTT memory" from rgone's post somewhere here and from others => took immediate action to get on the "safe side" => throttled down to stock settings, 200FSB, 2-4-4-7 @ 3.0V, JP17 on 3V, yellow slots and tested several scenarios from here

It went like this:
-> naming:
"upper" slot = yellow S1, orange S2 (I'm referring to them both at the same time, ie. I tried both combinations)
"bottom" slot = yellow S3, orange S4 (idem)
"arming the memory" = boot with D2 in S1 into windows then shutdown (keep AC power on)
shutdown = standard Windows shutdown -> windows closes and system powers down, but without cutting off AC

-> found out the following, which happened consistently:

- a) D1 would boot alone only in certain conditions, see bellow (it's my "bad" stick)

- b) D2 would only boot alone if in "upper" slot (it's my "good" stick)

- c) D1 + D2 in dual channel would work only if:

- c1) attempted immediately following a "D2 alone boot" (good stick boot) AND
- c2) D2 in "upper" slot and D1 in "bottom" slot
- c3) caveat: From this point, dual channel works fine, but ONLY as long as the system is not shut down, ie. it will warm restart OK, but if I shut it down I need to go through the "good stick boot" procedure (b) and pop the "bad" stick in afterwards to get dual channel going again

- d) when doing dual channel as per c), it works in both "D1-S1, D2-S3" and "D2-S1, D1-S3" configurations (ie. swapped around)

- e) when shutting down the pc (no AC cutoff, just shutdown), as I said, it wouldn't start again unless following the strict algorithm outlined in c), consisting of steps c1) and c2) (with caveat outlined in c3))

- f) after "arming the memory", I could boot D1 alone in S1 or dual channel in S1-S3, in either order

At no time I did cut the AC power (unplug from the wall).
I'm now forced to keep the computer running (no shutdown) if I want to use both dimms. It's not feasible => for the time being I'm only running D2 in S1, stock, on yellow and JP17 3V as said before. I'm waiting eagerly for a solution to this problem. I hope this helps. I'll be checking back later, but testing is on hold for a while due to exams


Peter

[Snark42]

Does the test bios solve the problem for anyone ?
Is it possible to solder a 3.3v line with a switch to kickstart ram when you boot ?
So i turn it on before i switch on computer so ram already has 3.3volt.
Then when it boots i can just switch it off..

I was also thinking something like this, BUT you would only actually want to be feeding it an extra .5 volts, as giving it an extra 3.2 plus the vdimm when it kicks in, will be giving it around 6 volts and I doubt your RAm would like that.

[Ubermann]

I was also thinking something like this, BUT you would only actually want to be feeding it an extra .5 volts, as giving it an extra 3.2 plus the vdimm when it kicks in, will be giving it around 6 volts and I doubt your RAm would like that.

I do mean that i want to solder 3.3 line to back of mb or other place so total volt at start is 3.3.

Boozer did the trick a few times and now im back from the beginning again..GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR RRR

[Snark42]

oh, and then just have a switch on the wire to turn it off once you're sure the the RAM is being supplied by the BIOS vdimm?

[SET]

think of it this way guys
no matter what your "bad' stick has to cool down to about 20c or room temp befor it will boot again. dosnt matter if it's 20 min or 1 hour or a day. Just get it down to room temp.

I have tried to leave them by several days and this follows without working.

This aid if an inferior temperature to the 20 Cs is obtained?

On the other hand, I ask myself if this in fact will not work in another Board, since after having problems with the "bad module" I have proven it in other Boards if positive results.

Thank you

[Ubermann]

oh, and then just have a switch on the wire to turn it off once you're sure the the RAM is being supplied by the BIOS vdimm?

Correct.

Lanero i tried putting them in the freezer, does not help.
Also tried oven, didnt help either =)

[Nugz]

I have tried to leave them by several days and this follows without working.

This aid if an inferior temperature to the 20 Cs is obtained?

On the other hand, I ask myself if this in fact will not work in another Board, since after having problems with the "bad module" I have proven it in other Boards if positive results.

Thank you

yeah if they dont work in another board, "RMA time", the DFI killed them ram ehhe

20c is just my room temp. well 18c right now but ya know.

Anyways
Peace Nugz

[13oost]

im posting for a friend, he just tried to run his sticks in the yellow slots to put a fan over them, b/c of him running at 3.5vdimm

he changes the memory in the slots
and he gets the memory's long solid tone in the boot... im guessing the cold boot issue.... he dosent have any seperate ram and has tried mutiple slots and no go, he used the 414-3 bios and i had told him to get -2 b/c he has Twinmos SP BH-5
but -3 should work since its a mix

he had been running 260mhz @ 2-2-2-5 3.5vdimm for over 6 months...
DFI NF4 UltraD
3200+ winnie @ 2.6ghz

any way to fix this issue?

FIXED, long cool down as mentioned at DFI-Street helped

he flashed to 510-2 and rebooted, then shut down to do the vdimm trick, and tried to boot and no go.... any clue? just long beeps (ram)

[longsiew]

Yes, I am having cold boot issue. May I be one of the tester. Pls email the Bios to me at ttzelong@yahoo.com.sg. I tried to PM but could not link up. Hopefuly, miracle will happen with this new Bios.

[OzSnoal]

This is what I have found (and posted over at DFI-Street). It looks like Nugz has the same problem. In my case, I would say my one stick of ram is toast - even though it will work fine if I get to boot.

I have a further update on my cold boot problem. For those of you following my findings, my latest was that I would not have cold boot problems if I left my pc off for 1 hour.

1) I took my 'bad' stick (by bad I mean believed to cause my cold boot problem) out of the PC and took out the hairdryer and heated the module so it was warm to the touch and let it cool for about 1 minute before reinserting it into the PC.

2) PC would not boot - cold boot problem.

3) Took the module out and took my summer air-only fan out to blow on it for about 5 minutes. The module was definately at room temperature.

4) Plug it in, and low and behold, the PC powers up.

Why my one dimm has behaved in this way is anyones guess, and is being investigated by both parties - this is wonderful support. What I would like to see from these 'high volts' dimm manufacturers that they supply the active cooling that is required. It is in their best interests.

So, a little test for those of you with Cold Boot problems and 'suspected' dead ram - take out your modules and give them a good cooling off under a fan (at least 5 minutes)- and don't get your fingers all over the gold contacts! See if that gets you booted up.

[AMDnewbie]

now my new bh-5 had problems with venice...
originally, the pc3500 bh-5 is very fussy with winnie. If timing or voltage is slightly out of it likes..it will freeze in #8 . Conitunue burning in #5 kill the ram...that was 1st pair....

2nd pair i m extremely cautious about this and try till #8 is ok then continue burning...the burning in was slow because i don't want on it for one whole day and end up w a dead pair again..

bought a venice 3200+....put it in and it plays well with the bh-5...will not freeze in #8 but would spew out errors.....went up 10Mhz straight on....happy and continue to burn in at 3.4v....at times into window w lesser voltage...

suddenly...windows freeze....ram no more stable at oc and only capable of cl2.5 only......ram was not hot during removal as i had a 120mm fan w full force and a 92mm fan for the mosfet.....just warm only...

play w tccd , utt ch-5 , hynix and all don't give me this kind of problems....

now w tccd...would need to setup my spare giga k8nf-9 to test the bh-5 again....

anyone faced similar problems b4....

[13oost]

This is what I have found (and posted over at DFI-Street). It looks like Nugz has the same problem. In my case, I would say my one stick of ram is toast - even though it will work fine if I get to boot.

tried that, worked once, but not agian

[Crazykooter]

I just got my twinmos in and so far no issues. I am on the 5v rail which I dont like to be but I cannot get it over 240 2-2-2 without it. the 3.3v line trick doesnt work. I am wondering if this is gonna lean me towards poss cold boot issues or not? I am gonna see if I can get 262 2-2-2-6 @ 3.4v. well see if its gonna stay stable.

[dsumanik]

Watch it kooter if you are using the orange slots you are now running the risk of dead ram. I have killed 4 sticks of pc4000VX just liek that.

Switch to yellow slots, overclock to the moon and then tell us your results.

If the yellows dont kill ram like slot 2 is, then maybe we have a temporary cure.

[Crazykooter]

Watch it kooter if you are using the orange slots you are now running the risk of dead ram. I have killed 4 sticks of pc4000VX just liek that.

Switch to yellow slots, overclock to the moon and then tell us your results.

If the yellows dont kill ram like slot 2 is, then maybe we have a temporary cure.

Alright I will give the yellow a try. I have tried them once but I got a no post with them. I cant seem to get the 3.3v trick work so well. Its not nearly as stable as the 5v.