I'm looking for a way to make it so my booster doesn't droop under high load. If I set it to 3.4v in the BIOS, it drops to 3.25 under any type of load. Does anyone have a suggestion?
I'm looking for a way to make it so my booster doesn't droop under high load. If I set it to 3.4v in the BIOS, it drops to 3.25 under any type of load. Does anyone have a suggestion?
Iwaki MD-20RZT
Alphacooling Nexxxos UT60 with 6X Panaflo L1A's at 7v
Dangerden MC-TDX with brass top.
Koolance VID-NX680 nickle/acetal with Bitspower Chrome compressions.
Koolance VL3N chrome quick disconnects on PCI backplate. (Yes, they leak)
Custom extremely expensive super complex Tupperware res.
Dangerden Fatboy fittings and Bitspower chrome compressions.
About 5 feet of Tygon R3603 tubing.
All built in a custom external wooden radbox, black.
The computer changes all the time.
Yeah - got the same problem. I see only two ways - first to live with it or second to swich to DFI NF4 with the 4-V-stock Vdimm and burry Your booster.
Previous system:
DFI NF4 ULTRA 0453A3 KOREA CHIPSET / BIOS 510-2FIX / FX-57 0516WPMW@3.62GHZ / 2x256 CORSAIR 3200LLPT BH-5@13x278MHZ 2-2-2-5@3.69VDIMM / MACH II GT@MOD BY BERKUT / ACTIVE COOLING FOR RAM - MOSFETS - GPU RAM / CHIPSET & GPU CORE WATERCOOLED / OCZ POWERSTEAM 600W / BUILT BY ATI X850XT@660/651 - VGPU@1.73-VDD@2.26-VDDQ@2.21 PENCIL MOD / WIN XP 2x80GB SAMSUNG SPINPOINT SP80 SATA - RAID 0 & WIN 2K 40GB SAMSUNG SPINPOINT SP40 IDE BENCH DRIVE / PIC
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Is your PSU rails stable, that could cause a problem. A droop mod...mmmm...never heard of one for the booster but I wouldn't be surprised if there was one
jjcom
That high voltage drop could also hint to a lack of cooling. If the mosfets on the Booster get too hot, you also get voltage fluctuation.
If it's not cooling, then try another PSU.
BTW, what's your 5V rail at? Isn't the booster powered from the 5V rail? If so, then it should be above 5V all the time.
Quote from one of our professors:
"Reality is hiding in the imaginary part."
Guys, dont confuse the term "droop" with every possible mod out there. The Vdroop is a voltage controller specific thing that can be modified via adding a resistor. You can raise/lower the droop only in specific circumstances.
I havent looked up the data sheet for the controller on the Booster, so I dont know if Vdroop is a part of its regulation.
I would agree with what the guys above said. Most likely heat or psu related. I would check the heatsink to see how warm it is and look it over to make sure its making good contact with the fets under it. Also look over the rails on the psu to see if it is bouncing around. You should also try a search here or on google about using the booster and your motherboard. My understanding is that there has been many problems associated with this combination.
I like my women the way I like my processors...naked.
I am not the HellFire that writes bios files. I work strictly on voltage modifications.
I'm running a PC Power and Cooling ATX 475-PFC. At idle (tested with multimeter), I get 5.19 v on the 5v rail and 12.04 on the 12v rail. At load they are 5.18 and 12.03. I persoanlly ripped the orignal aluminum heatsink off the MOSFETs and Actic Silver Alumina Epoxied 4X Vantec Iceberq BGA copper heatsinks on them, the I glued two 80mm fans together, and they are blowing DIRECTLY on the entire ram assembly. The Heatsinks get warm under load, but I could keep my finger there all day and be fine. I know they're making contact great, as I did it myself. It's not heat, and it's not the PSU, I'm certain of that.
Iwaki MD-20RZT
Alphacooling Nexxxos UT60 with 6X Panaflo L1A's at 7v
Dangerden MC-TDX with brass top.
Koolance VID-NX680 nickle/acetal with Bitspower Chrome compressions.
Koolance VL3N chrome quick disconnects on PCI backplate. (Yes, they leak)
Custom extremely expensive super complex Tupperware res.
Dangerden Fatboy fittings and Bitspower chrome compressions.
About 5 feet of Tygon R3603 tubing.
All built in a custom external wooden radbox, black.
The computer changes all the time.
There's no voltage controller on the booster. Actually, the booster is just a big adjustable resistor connected from +5V to Vdimm, no droop mod possible there.Originally Posted by Hell-Fire
You could try running the +12v on the booster on a dedicated PSU.
This will eliminate most of the fluctuation I think.
Originally Posted by Micutzu
INTEL PWA FOR EVER
Dr. Who my arss...
.........
Well hurry up then damnit!Originally Posted by hipro5
Iwaki MD-20RZT
Alphacooling Nexxxos UT60 with 6X Panaflo L1A's at 7v
Dangerden MC-TDX with brass top.
Koolance VID-NX680 nickle/acetal with Bitspower Chrome compressions.
Koolance VL3N chrome quick disconnects on PCI backplate. (Yes, they leak)
Custom extremely expensive super complex Tupperware res.
Dangerden Fatboy fittings and Bitspower chrome compressions.
About 5 feet of Tygon R3603 tubing.
All built in a custom external wooden radbox, black.
The computer changes all the time.
Don't you think that it would be better to be a little more friendly here in the forums???Originally Posted by Stealth5325
Hope your next postings will look different then this one.
Quote from one of our professors:
"Reality is hiding in the imaginary part."
No.....It's OK........I know what he means......Originally Posted by celemine1Gig
INTEL PWA FOR EVER
Dr. Who my arss...
.........
I also know what he means, but he shouldn't talk in such a way, especially to people whom he doesn't even know.Originally Posted by hipro5
If he knows you personally, then no problem. But me for example, I know that you are hipro5, the great overclocker and engineer from Greece, but I don't really know you as a person and I highly respect your work. And that's the point why I wouldn't talk this way to you, and everyone else shouldn't do so either.
We shouold keep some respect, even in these forums here.
There are other ways to express ones thoughts, than the way, Stealth chose.
Just my . If you don't mind that, then ignore my posting.
Quote from one of our professors:
"Reality is hiding in the imaginary part."
I'm with Celemine, I really like RESPECT, respect it's what makes us all strong and unite
Mother Tongue speaks to me in the strangest way I ever seen, I know she sees in me the proudest child ... virando costas ao mundo orgulhosamente sos, gloria antiga volta a nos" - MOONSPELL
Who are you to criticize, to judge and burn the tribes, the world will be extinct and your flesh will rot with mine - SEPULTURA
XS WCG
You are right guys and thank you very much about your good words..........BUT we supposed to be FRIENDS in here no matter what age-gentar-country-e.t.c. we are.......So I think that friends could talk freely and comfortable in here.....That's my opinion........Respect is good but friendship IS BETTER don't you think...?.......
We all could say : "Respect your friend"......
INTEL PWA FOR EVER
Dr. Who my arss...
.........
That's better and congrats on your work, very good!!Originally Posted by hipro5
Mother Tongue speaks to me in the strangest way I ever seen, I know she sees in me the proudest child ... virando costas ao mundo orgulhosamente sos, gloria antiga volta a nos" - MOONSPELL
Who are you to criticize, to judge and burn the tribes, the world will be extinct and your flesh will rot with mine - SEPULTURA
XS WCG
While I don't appreciate Celemine injecting his negative thoughts about me in my thread, I seem to be in the minority here.
Hipro, although you've indicated that you understood, allow me to apologize for my choice of wording.
I am finding my current DDR voltage solution inadequate. You have what seems to be a better solution, and I gt overly exicted for it. Please know I meant no harm.
That said, I would love to see your unit in production as soon as possible!
Iwaki MD-20RZT
Alphacooling Nexxxos UT60 with 6X Panaflo L1A's at 7v
Dangerden MC-TDX with brass top.
Koolance VID-NX680 nickle/acetal with Bitspower Chrome compressions.
Koolance VL3N chrome quick disconnects on PCI backplate. (Yes, they leak)
Custom extremely expensive super complex Tupperware res.
Dangerden Fatboy fittings and Bitspower chrome compressions.
About 5 feet of Tygon R3603 tubing.
All built in a custom external wooden radbox, black.
The computer changes all the time.
Hipro, cant you make a quick circuit with a small voltage controller to control the fet's on the booster so it will correct itself when the voltage is dropping under load?
Venice 3500+ M @ 3ghz - Lanparty nf4 2 dimms dead - X800 - 512 Mb BH-5 - 1* WD360GD - 1*SP1213C - 1* Maxtor 6Y120L0
Cpu: Prommy chilled
I doubt that Hipro5 would give you any details on how to improve the booster, as he (as you might already know) wants to release his own kind of booster (the maximizer; much better than the booster anyway) soon. Helping others improve the product that his direct opponent is marketing, would be like shooting his own foot.Originally Posted by Rub87
But perhaps you are lucky and he'll help you, although it would be kind of bad for him.
@Stealth5325:
You are a really funny guy. Me and negative thoughts
I only pointed out, that we (I think I can speak for the majority of the community here) would like to keep a certain level of conversation which indicates a certain respect towards eachother. And as your last post partly showed, you are indeed able to hold that level. So, was it that hard to behave? Just kidding!
BTW, if the posting, that I was referring to when complaining, was meant to be funny or ironic, or wahtever, then just use smilies next time, so we all know the way it was meant to be.
Quote from one of our professors:
"Reality is hiding in the imaginary part."
I've designed a circuit which should help reduce the droop on the Booster. I haven't got/seen a booster myself, so i'm not sure if it will work, but I think it should workOriginally Posted by Rub87
http://www.drunken-student.co.uk/tom/reg.JPG
The OPAMP should be powered from the 12v line on the booster.
BTW, I'm not trying to take any business away from Hipro, and I am sure that what he has planned will perform much better than this.
I'm not that good with electronics, but if I get this correct is q1 the 4 fets under the hs on such a booster (haven't removed them yet) and then we replace the stock 10k pot with a 100K one and add a little opamp..
The opamp needs to be powered by +12v..? and -Vz needs to be connected to gnd or -12v?
Venice 3500+ M @ 3ghz - Lanparty nf4 2 dimms dead - X800 - 512 Mb BH-5 - 1* WD360GD - 1*SP1213C - 1* Maxtor 6Y120L0
Cpu: Prommy chilled
I didn't know that there were 4 FETs on the booster. It depends how they are connected if this will work, but I'll look into it further.
It should be ok to use the existing 10k pot thats on the booster.
The + leg should be connected to the +12v line and the - leg to ground.
They're al 4 feeded by +5v and switched parralel, The middle (from top view) leg is +5v, and the left one is the controll line, the left one I can't see where that's going as this is a multi layer pcb, but I suppose that it goes to Vdimm...
Venice 3500+ M @ 3ghz - Lanparty nf4 2 dimms dead - X800 - 512 Mb BH-5 - 1* WD360GD - 1*SP1213C - 1* Maxtor 6Y120L0
Cpu: Prommy chilled
It should be fine to just disconnect the wiper (center pin) of the pot and connect it to the non inverting (+) input on the OPAMP and then connect the point that the center pin of the pot was connected to on the PCB to the output of the OPAMP.
Is something like this usable as opamp for this purpose?
It's the LM386N-3 version..
Venice 3500+ M @ 3ghz - Lanparty nf4 2 dimms dead - X800 - 512 Mb BH-5 - 1* WD360GD - 1*SP1213C - 1* Maxtor 6Y120L0
Cpu: Prommy chilled
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