sounds great. maybe we next see your 2 or 3 state cascadecooler. BTW haw U built that autocascade by your self or is chilly or fugger or someone else helped U?Originally Posted by s7e9h3n
It's gonna look very cool by the time I'm done with itIt'll drop down to about -65C evap and hold my fx55 diego @ 1.75 @ -50C Evap loaded.
@chilly: I'll get in touch with you when I'm ready to do this......Thanks!
Nah, I actually could have bought a dual compressor cascade, but I always wanted to play with an autocascade. Charlie had originally obtained a Polycold autocascade and had it modded by Chilly for DOD use. I bought it from him when he decided he didn't need it, PM me if you want more info because we're way off topic here
Send these things to Chilly1 as fast as you can!!! =P
Yes Sir!!
Lol
That's what I like to hear
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Owned
LOL :P
Tbred 1700+ @2400mhz (RBX Watercooled)
Abit Nf7-s v2.0 (detoned lan)
2x256 Crucial Ballistix Pc3200@2-2-2-5 1t
GeForce 2 mx400@Vatec Iceberg@285/215
Maxtor 9Gb
450w Generic PSU
Ok, I was just messing around with it and plugged in a dummy power switch and the molex connector to running power supply and of course plugged the main power cord in. After the 5 minute wait I start it up(just with the evap in the air) and it starts great, says On.... PC On.... then gives me what I think is an error code of E7C I believe. The evap gets nice and cold but I dont' know how cold. Do I have to connect it to the motherboard power on switch to let this work correctly just for testing it out? Overall I really like this and am very impressed.
Any suggestions?
Check the coneccion of the temp probe.
Is the temp reading ok till you guet the "pc on" screen??
Last edited by Golden_Eagle; 10-14-2005 at 08:41 AM.
This is a quck video I took. It starts with the unit off, then pushing the power on button and then after I get the reading of -E7C I push the power button again and get ---.
The unit gets nice and cold. I checked the wire from the Gfroster to the temperature probe and it's intact and connected but I didn't check continuity.
So I assume it's supposed to work like this:
Power button on
Screen says "On"
Temperature starts to lower but is displaying some temperature
Once temp hits -25 then "Pc On"
Then displays temp the whole time and continues to display this.
http://www.savefile.com/files.php?fid=8252794
Please any help you would be would be great. Thanks
BlueAqua
My G-Froster Value just started acting up in a similar way not even 2-3 days ago (after a couple of months of working just fine). Instead of starting at like 24-25C ("room temp"), cooling off to ~ -23C and turning the PC on, the temp reads low on initial start-up (like -87C, which my be your "-E7C") and slowly climbs up. Difference between yours and mine is that it will still read temp instead of --- and that temp seems to be about normal after 5 min or so of the PC being on. CPU temps are the same as before so it's either the controller or the temp probe.
The problem is, instead of waiting to turn the PC on, it starts it right away because the temp reading is so cold. The first time it happened, mine did a thermal shutdown because the evap didn't have enough time to cool off before it powered up the mobo.
I have my 5V lead from the G-Froster connected to a spare PSU and I turn the unit separately, let it cool off for about 5 min. and then power the PC on manually.
I thought it was just me having a fluke, but maybe there's more to it if I am not the only one...
There are 2 presets on the controller, they are used for calibration purposes. If any of you have made any adjustment to them, let me know so I can tell you how to correct it.
If that´s not your case...
boostedevo:
I think the temp probe isn´t working ok, but i´m not completely sure.
I´d like you to unplug the temp probe from the board, and tell me what do you get on the display while the phase is cooling down.
It´s a really weird failure, that the temp reading becomes normal after a while.
The voltage between the temp probe terminals should be 2.98v at 25ºc (it has to be attached to the controller) I´t would be great if you can test that.
BlueAqua, your problem could be a shortcircuit in the temp probe, can you unplug the probe and check it with a continuity tester?
Golden_Eagle, I haven't touched anything on the controller at all.
1) Unplug temp probe w/ unit on, it reads "HI".
2) Unplug temp probe w/ unit off and then turn on, it reads "E8C".
3) Voltage at the pins when LED reads ~ 0C = 2.75V
4) Voltage at the pins when LED reads ~ -42C = 2.30V.
I'll test the voltage again the next time I do a cold boot and the evap is up to "room temp". According to the temp probe, that may be 24-26C or -85 to -90C
I left the unit off for about an hour and fired it up with the DMM leads on the pins and the probe connected. Oddly enough, I now get the exact same error that BlueAqua does (E7C) and voltage is way down on the probe (.46-.50V). I restarted it a few times, but the error and voltage remains unchanged.
Ok I've taken a resistance reading from the load side of the temperature probe that connected to the circuit board and got about 45 ohms with the probe somewhat less than ambiant (21C). It wasn't acutally connected at this time when I did the measurements. This to me sounds about right, what do you think?
Also I took a resistance reading of the 2 pins on the circuit board and got infinite, so that sounds right.
Last edited by BlueAqua; 10-24-2005 at 03:02 PM.
Ummm....you can't test for resistance when something's connected in a circuit......
I disconnected it and that's why I have 2 different readings.
Last edited by BlueAqua; 10-24-2005 at 04:15 PM.
Just wondering, what PICs are actually used in that?
boostedevo:
All the voltage readings seems to be acurrate, but not the last one.
Could you separate the temp prob from the evaporator and redo the last test? "...left the unit off for about an hour and fired..."
If the problem persists, I´d try with a new temp probe. You could probably get a cheap LM335Z in a local store, it will be fine to do the test.
BlueAqua: I get a reading of ~40 Kohms in a new temp probe. If you are getting 45 Ohms you definitely need another temp probe. Contact chilly1 and see if he can change your´s for a newone.
Btw the resistence measurement will not tell you the temperature of the probe.
Ok, I have it figured out. It turns out that when I received the unit the 2 wire cable was off and I hooked it up like you were supposed to, but it turns out that the 2 wires were swapped and it didn't work. So I swapped them around and now all works as designed. Man, that was quite a relief. It's now awesome to see -57C. That was with no load and just in open air but quite awesome to see. I can't wait to get it hooked up and get it all going. One question though.
Is there a shutdown function associated with this and how does that work? I didn't have it hooked up to my motherboard but when I shutdown windows will that turn the unit off or do I have to hook up some kind of a power switch. When I press the power button all I get is ---. I don't know if this is right or now but we're making good progress.
I ended taking another resistance reading and got 40Kohms this time. I think I was on the wrong scale or something. I just use an old analog radio shack model so it's not all too accurate but gets me by until I get my Fluke.
G_E: I'l try to get around to that this week...I have a Fry's local that usually has a decent selection. Oddly enough, ever since doing that voltage test, I shut it down for a couple of hours and when I came back to the "room temp" turn-on test, all I've gotten since is the E7C code.
I am waiting for Chilly1 to finish up something else and this unit is going to be sent back to him at some point anyway, so I'll let him deal with it if I haven't figured it out by then
BlueAqua: I´m glad you figured out. It was driving me crazy hehehe.
The pahse changer will be turned off when you shotdown windows, after the 5v on the psu are gone. That´s when the "---" screen goes away.
If you press the power botton, the whole system will be shot down ( the power button should be set in the BIOS, to the option that shots down windows)
To do a complete test, you should connect the controller to the mobo, an to the PC-PSU.
G-Froster will take care of the whole system, so you can use your pc like a fan-cooled one.
Boostedevo: Stay touch. i´m still wondering what happend to your controller. I supose a probe replacement will be enough.
I PM'd Ssilencer but he hasn't been online so I'll just ask here.
I've got a Mach1 I just modded and it's working great but the controller is pretty awful, and it looks like the hold reset is just holding so unless i can sort that out, and mod the temp probe resistance, it's just too awkward to work with.
Can the golden froster (basic version) just be wired in? I mean can I use the existing temp probe with it to avoid having to strip down the head?
Could I use the one fan controller for the fans, and the other for the evap heater? Or does the basic version come with dual fan control?
I can wire things up without a problem if some small changes were needed, but it's the controller itself I just wonder about. Mainly the temp probe. Also can I use my fluke to read the temps and calibrate the readout with it? The full version I'd assume yes, but was wondering about the basic just to keep the switch inexpensive.
Also if you could PM me a price for UK shipped that would be great
Cheers
Gray
Since I haven't been able to track down ssilencer myself, I will chime in for you Gray.
#1. NTC Thermistor is used on mach I while LM335 is used on froster.. incompatible. Maybe some software rewrite could be done but it would be a lot of work with table and equation on their end.
#2. Fan controller probably could be reprogrammed. But I doubt it can handle much power. What is resistance of heatpad?
The basic controller can be used the temp probe is of a different type but you can attach teh probe to the suctionline under the neck of the suctionline and get emps somewhere near.. closer than most mach display's. The temps are close to accurate.. and you can adjust them a little..I PM'd Ssilencer but he hasn't been online so I'll just ask here.
I've got a Mach1 I just modded and it's working great but the controller is pretty awful, and it looks like the hold reset is just holding so unless i can sort that out, and mod the temp probe resistance, it's just too awkward to work with.
Can the golden froster (basic version) just be wired in? I mean can I use the existing temp probe with it to avoid having to strip down the head?
Could I use the one fan controller for the fans, and the other for the evap heater? Or does the basic version come with dual fan control?
I can wire things up without a problem if some small changes were needed, but it's the controller itself I just wonder about. Mainly the temp probe. Also can I use my fluke to read the temps and calibrate the readout with it? The full version I'd assume yes, but was wondering about the basic just to keep the switch inexpensive.
Also if you could PM me a price for UK shipped that would be great
Cheers
Gray
Does anybody have a manual or diagram which describes how to wire the golden froster x & value up?
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