First DIY H20 Job & Questions

[eva2000]

Finally put all the pieces together to leak test but think I done somethings wrong or could of done better :o

Silverprop Cyclone SE P478 waterblock
Clearflex 60 1/2" ID tubing and Norma hose clamps
Bravo Heatcore + 2x 120x38mm Panaflo 109cfm fans sucking off the shroud
MCP600 rev1 with fixed pump head
PCcasegear cyclinder res with 1/2" barbs vertically standing
Nulon Ultracool 1/10th of 2L mixture

520W Topower Gold Triple fan PSU with paper clip to short green ATX and black to start psu by itself.

multimeter reads the PSU's 12V as 10.51v

1. i think i used too much tubing length as i planned to setup the DIY stuff externally on the floor and the bench setup is up high on desk - see below for extact setup
2. i can't see if the water is moving. I did see some flow in the res barbs and bubbles in the little gap/empty top area of my res but now there's no bubbles to be seen. How do i check to see if water is flowing ?

setup is like this

pump inlet -> 15cm tubing -> res's lower barb - res's upper barb -> 35cm tubing -> radiator -> 200cm tubing -> waterblock -> 200cm tubing -> pump

- could it be the under volted 12V rail on psu is lowering the pump's power to pump the water around as it took ages filling the res and getting the water to fill all the tubing ?
- too long a tubing ?

I'm leak testing now, but with my above setup listed, if there were leaks where would I most likely look for them ? I've screw in tightly the Norma hose clamps and i doubt they'd leak.

oh and how the hell will i change waterblocks or add the flow meter to the setup ??? or change the water ???

help is very much needed and appreciated





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[TyphooN]

You shouldn't be able to see that the water is moving. It would'nt be possible with no bubbles. You want no bubbles. It should be flowing. If you really want you can get a flow meter thing that can be placed inline, but it should be fine if your temps are fine, and the pump is on. I think you should have gotten the whitewater cpu block personally. Look for leaks around hose barbs, the pump, the pump housing. I think you should have not used a res, but submerged the pump, because the flow would have been better. The low 12v could be causing lower flow, but I don't think that it effected the filling of the res that bad. I have no clue about your tubing, I can't visualize anything with text, I would need a scale drawing or something, thats just how I am. Why do you care if its too long? Basically just try to fit everything with the shortest possible tube without kinking. If you want to add a flow meter, or change blocks, you will need to drain the system first.

[eva2000]

somes pics of the leak testing and tube length -- too long ?

http://www.fileshosts.com/watercooling/DIY/1/



notice the empty space in the res

[JetForcegeminiX]

doesn't seem too long to me

[eva2000]

noooooooooooooo..... bad news.. i install the whole setup onto my P4C800-E/2.8C test bench, turn on the system and i can hear the rad's fans spin up.. but i feel the Silverprop waterblock and it starts to heat up!!!!!!!!!! I go into bios and stock 2.8C@200fsb and 1.525v and the cpu temp is rising to 58C!

As people know P4C800-E already under reports cpu temps by 5-10C so cpu was really at 60+ C

A few bubbles in the tubing near the waterblock barb don't even move.

Sooooooo.. that means the MCP600 pump isn't even working right ??? or is the tubing too long ???

Arrrrrrrgh...

[TyphooN]

Well. I don't know if the tubing is too long. You should have NO bubbles in your system when you install it into ur comp. The only way the pump wouldnt be working is if air is in the pump, it should be able to push the bubble. If you are worried about the length of the tubing, you should have installed the hoses to exact length, installed on ur hardware. That is what I did. Get those bubbles out of your waterblock and I think you will be fine. Let us know what happens.

[Gogeta]

If your PSU isn't attached to a mobo with at least a cpu installed on it, you wont get accurate readings from the rails.

You need to also ensure that the highest point in your system while filling/bleeding is NOT your cpu block, as air will get trapped in there. Once you have everything setup and the loop is filled, let it run for a few hours to let the bubbles migrate to the high point. It helps to turn everything on its side and/or upside-down (while making sure the high point doesn't fall below any other part of the loop). Sometimes it takes a few attempts to get all the air out, but have patience...it's well worth it

Once your loop has been running for a while and you can no longer see bubbles running through the lines (it should look like the water isn't even moving), you are ready to go.

Edit: Just looked at your pics. Your tubing is way too long and you'll have problems getting it to fit in your case. I suggest making estimates of how long your tubing will be for each segment by looking at the path the segment will follow in your case. For just a cpu block, you shouldn't need more than about 3.5 feet of total tubing. Once you have everything measured out, you can fill in the bathtub again, but make sure your reservoir is the highest component in your loop.

[eva2000]

see i don't plan on fitting it in a case it's meant to be external from my case hence length of tubing

[freecableguy]

This may be a retarded question but you did plug the pump into the wall?

[kommando]

Eva2000, if you need any help just give us a pm and i will personally come around and help :P

Nah jkz...

Do you hear any noises coming from the pump and is the water moving at all if you take off a peice of tubing for one barb and let the waterpour into a bucket or something?