How can I tell the multiplier unlock is working???

[Tweaked!]

What's the most sure fire way to tell if my attempt at unlocking a Amd xp chip worked or not, other than it running and booting???

I attempted to unlock the xp1600's in my duallie today, first time I've ever tried to do anything like this before, other than just previously unlocking the smp capabilities on the l5 bridge to allow these xp's to run in dual mode. I've got it up and running, so far stable as before. I have changed the settings in the bios to 11x133 to start with. Didn't see any noticeable difference. So I've went for 12x133 to see if there's anything noticeale there. I've opened 3dmark and checked system info, it says I'm at factory default (1.37ghz). So, I figure I better ask you guys before I attempt any other changes before I fugger anything up.

Unlocking those things kinda sucked! Had to clean everything off and start over twice because the tape wasn't sealing properly to the wafer when I was masking off and when I applied the conductive paint, it kept seeping up under the tape and all over everything So I had to clean it all back off and start over. So I started pressing the tape down and rubbing it in with the edge of a razor blade to make sure there were no poorly bonded areas. But that just kept getting even harder after each application, having to try to mask off the already done areas.

Then after I completed the bridging, I still had to scrape the area in between the bridges w/ the razor blade to make d*mn sure they were not making any connection.

Then, after all that, I put everything back together, and went for the first fire up, and nothing more than system beeps!!! So I started checking the hsf's and all the connections for any that might be loose. Then it dawned on me that I forgot to put the ram back in (since that has to be removed in order to safely remove and reinstall the hsf)

So after installing the ram, I went for it again. Still nothing but beeps. So I removed the cpu's for further inspection and found that I also forgot to put some tape over the new bridges to keep them from making contact with the hsf. So I taped them off and proceeded to reinstall everything again.

Now, I try to boot the computer and walla! It posts and goes into windows w/ no problem. So I start the proceedure of rebooting and testing the different multipliers to see, but I really don't know if it's actually allowing the different multi's or defaulting back to factory.

So, question is, how can I find this out???

[sysfailur]

Download WCPUID and check in there if the multiplier is changing, it'll show the stats for each processor. Set it to something, look in WCPUID then and see if it changed. And that's that.

[Tweaked!]

I'll go looking for it, but do you have any links to the best place to find it? I've read about others using it in the past, but never had any reason to need it. Thanx for the help

[sysfailur]

Originally posted by Tweaked!
I'll go looking for it, but do you have any links to the best place to find it? I've read about others using it in the past, but never had any reason to need it. Thanx for the help

I tell ya, haven't ya heard of google.com? :P

http://cgi2.tky.3web.ne.jp/~nrklv/cg...gi?wcpu30g.exe

[QuadDamage]

www.h-oda.com

if the cpu isn't unlocked properly it won't boot after you've change the multi in BIOS, or will boot at diffrent multi than the one you've chosen.

[Tweaked!]

Ok, well here's an update to my progress. Somehow I think I fugged it up, because at boot, it kept telling me that even though there was two mp chips in that they were not the same and it would continue to boot in uni form. So I removed them and tried to scrape in between the lines to ensure there was no cross connections ( which I'm positive they weren't making no contact between themselves) and still kept getting the same error. So I've removed them, removed all the bridging, and refired them back up locked again. Positive side to this is I haven't screwed anything up, they're booting just fine as dual mode again locked. So I'll just have to attempt it again when I've got more time to do so. I used a rear window defogger repair kit, which I don't believe is the best to be using. I need to find a conductive pen or something that will be a lot more precise. The conductive paint in this kit was just too out of control. If anyone knows where to get such a pen or has any better suggestions, please feel free to enlighten me.