1st soldering iron

[Techmasta]

Just got a soldering iron. I got it at radioshack. Dual watt, 15/30. I've been practicing on an old laptop motherboard and its a lot of fun. Anybody have any soldering tips or suggestions for me other than don't burn the house down?

[toolbox]

LoL, I got my first one too recently. Same one also!

Search for my posts. I ask a lot of stupid questions that most people don't include when they make "guides." Congrats, it is fun!

[Ragnarok]

1. keep the tip clean, buy a tip cleaner (it's similar to steel wool, but made of copper)

2. get some rosin/flux, it will help the solder flow and attach to the surface

[Malves]

All my volt mods are done with tip tinner. Which I use to tin the wires and the tip of the iron and then solder. I only use rosin solder on the VR pins.

[Techmasta]

I got some rosin clear flux solder. 60/40, .63 diameter. I was thinking it might be too thick for vmods. Should I get some smaller diameter solder? And do you guys use the stock tip?

[hollywood]

1. Use a fine #2 point...

2. ONLY use a grounded iron for electronics work...

3. Let the iron always get really hot before you try to work... (wait 6 mins)

4. Get a stand for the iron if you don't already have one...

5. Get a "helping hands" stand with the two alligator clips, it really helps hold the wires, etc...

6. Go slow...

7. Always flux the two things you intend to solder together with a dab of flux...

8. Always tin the tip of your iron and use a wet sponge to keep it clean while working. A bit of flux on the wet sponge really keeps the iron clean.

9. Last but not least...ALWAYS use heatshrink tubing to cover bare connections, as you don't need to short out your $300.00 graphics card because you goofed while measuring voltage.

[kommando]

Damnit i need a smaller tip on my soldering iron, its chunkkkyy. Might get a new one anywayz.

[ColdBrew]

I am very new to your forum, but have soldered for a long time. Views will vary for the size soldering irons and tips required, you can spend thousands on digitally controlled temperatures and 20 different sizes and shaped of tips, but nothing beats practice and common sense even if you are using that $30 special and the solder than came on the shelf next to it. Most important are cleanliness and flux. If you can obtain a liquid flux and dispenser, it is a great advantage. Not sure where to get these, as mine is often borrowed from work and not readily available to the public. Always clean and tin before continuing with anything. Always clean afterwards. Its all about heat transfer and flow of the liquid solder. Still, too hot will mean deteriorated or destroyed components. The tip should be big enough to transfer heat, but you will not want it to be so big as to tough nearby contact points that you did not wish to unsolder or accidentally short with stray solder. A stand mount magnifying glass would be a welcomed addition to the other items already suggested in this thread. Finally, Practice Practice Practice. Unsolder and resolder components just to see if you can make them look like they did from the manufacturer. With time, and an occasional lesson learned the hard way, you will get better. Good luck.

[LikwidKool]

hollywood funny you mention a grounded iron. I have been using the 15/30 radio shack iron for all my vmods, until one day I noticed a grounded iron. It hit me that I was being pretty reckless not using one before. Needless to say I picked it up and have been using that one now. IIR it is a 20watt grounded Radio Shack iron. To me it is weird that all irons are not grounded.

I am not an expert by far at soldering, but have gotten decent at it. Enough to perform quite a few decent mods.

Like others said practice makes perfect. The more I solder the less sweaty my hands get and the more steady they are too. You begin to learn just how much solder is enough, and where best to hold the tip on the component to be soldered. I have actually forgone using grabbers even if the component can accept them, just to get more prectice on a live board. Sometimes for me atleast, the practice on a dead piece just does not give you enough concequence if you screw up! I seem to do my best work when it is "for real"!

[Techmasta]

How do you tell if you have a grounded iron or not?

I've been having a problem with the tip not getting hot. The sides of tip will get hot and the solder bubbles up on them instead of the tip. Is that normal? If not how can I correct it?

BTW
ColdBrew, welcome to the sickness!

[Slickthellama]

dont get acid flux get non-corrosive electronics flux. Get it at an electronics store.

[Techmasta]

I'm using rosin flux. This stuff: http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...%5Fid=64%2D018

[hollywood]

Originally posted by Techmasta
How do you tell if you have a grounded iron or not?

I've been having a problem with the tip not getting hot. The sides of tip will get hot and the solder bubbles up on them instead of the tip. Is that normal? If not how can I correct it?

BTW
ColdBrew, welcome to the sickness!

Well...the very tippy tip isn't used to solder anyway. You use the side after you tin the iron.

A grounded iron has three prongs...you know...for three hole outlets...not just two prongs.

[Teus]

http://www.madshrimps.be/?action=gethowto&howtoID=47

[Techmasta]

Originally posted by Hollywood

A grounded iron has three prongs...you know...for three hole outlets...not just two prongs.

lol I'm so stupid. My mind must have went blank.

How do you get good accuracy using the side of the tip? It seems too large.

EDIT
Teus thanks for the link.

[Odysseus_____]

Practice.. that's about the best I can tell you. Different methods work better for different people... Also, make sure your solderting tip isn't the 'wedge' type. A pointed cone-shaped tip works best for me.

And in addition to Hollywood's post above...

10) Be careful not to heat the components too much. The board can blister, traces can end up being lifted, and even worse, the surface mount components can sometimes become unsoldered very easily and stick to the iron. As a matter of fact, unless you're experienced in soldering on surface-mount stuff, you may want to practice on some old junk boards before attempting any mods. Also, you may want to invest in some copper-braid for removing small amounts of solder when needed. I use "Chem-Wick"... the cheap Radio Shack stuff bites...

11) If you can't figure out which end is the hot end within 2 trys, then get rid of your soldering rig....

[hollywood]

Originally posted by Odysseus_____
Practice.. that's about the best I can tell you. Different methods work better for different people... Also, make sure your solderting tip isn't the 'wedge' type. A pointed cone-shaped tip works best for me.

And in addition to Hollywood's post above...

10) Be careful not to heat the components too much. The board can blister, traces can end up being lifted, and even worse, the surface mount components can sometimes become unsoldered very easily and stick to the iron. As a matter of fact, unless you're experienced in soldering on surface-mount stuff, you may want to practice on some old junk boards before attempting any mods. Also, you may want to invest in some copper-braid for removing small amounts of solder when needed. I use "Chem-Wick"... the cheap Radio Shack stuff bites...

11) If you can't figure out which end is the hot end within 2 trys, then get rid of your soldering rig....

Great points...I simply didn't even think to write that as those things are automatic to me.

When soldering components there should be less than .3 seconds of contact. Just touch / join the components and BAM!!!!...remove the iron.

[apathy^2]

any suggestions on where to find a magnifying stand (doesn't have to be lit) on the cheap?

[Odysseus_____]

Hmm.. depends on what you call cheap... I have a set of those helping hands that have a magnifying glass built in on them, that works for small stuff...I think they came from Radio Shack... For enlarging a bigger area, I like the flourescent halo lights with the magnifying glass built in the middle.. you can get one of them from MCM Electronics for about $50....

[kokoro_kara]

Originally posted by ColdBrew
I am very new to your forum, but have soldered for a long time. Views will vary for the size soldering irons and tips required, you can spend thousands on digitally controlled temperatures and 20 different sizes and shaped of tips, but nothing beats practice and common sense even if you are using that $30 special and the solder than came on the shelf next to it. Most important are cleanliness and flux. If you can obtain a liquid flux and dispenser, it is a great advantage. Not sure where to get these, as mine is often borrowed from work and not readily available to the public. Always clean and tin before continuing with anything. Always clean afterwards. Its all about heat transfer and flow of the liquid solder. Still, too hot will mean deteriorated or destroyed components. The tip should be big enough to transfer heat, but you will not want it to be so big as to tough nearby contact points that you did not wish to unsolder or accidentally short with stray solder. A stand mount magnifying glass would be a welcomed addition to the other items already suggested in this thread. Finally, Practice Practice Practice. Unsolder and resolder components just to see if you can make them look like they did from the manufacturer. With time, and an occasional lesson learned the hard way, you will get better. Good luck.

Welcome to the ForuM ColdBrew!!!!

And great input, Thx