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Thread: I just delidded my old 1090T [PICS]

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by IronBalls View Post
    I'm not the first one to achieve this. To my knowledge, two people achieved it before me.
    The first one goes by the name of shrimp

    http://forums.extremeoverclocking.co...d.php?t=332705

    The second one, who inspired me to do this, posted a video on youtube

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ukq783v0nMQ

    So I must be the third or so.

    "He warned about issues with chips dying at higher voltage when delidded to what appeared to be quick temperature swings and the IHS acting as "a buffer"...but I think bad contact was the real problem."

    Must be a bad contact. I noticed that temps go up and down less fast. So heat transfer should be better. After all, there is direct contact between the core and the waterblock.
    ShrimpBrime de-lidded Phenom II X4, but not X6...(I see at the end that he recently did, but by the pictures, the CPU looks damaged.)
    The video on youtube is interesting. I hadn't known about that one, but they probably already knew to be careful about the SMT components touching the rubber seal.

    I think the problem chew* had, were probably small hotspots on the die (possibly caused by air bubbles) or etc. It is good to keep in mind though that the indium solder does indeed act as a "buffer" and heatspreader to avoid hotspots when contact is good. For example, with perfect contact, and if one part of the die, say, the IMC heats up rapidly or more than other parts, the solder can help spread that heat across the die.

    @cab - The solder has a melting point around 110c and thermal conductivity around 80W/mK vs ~5W/mK for normal thermal paste.
    Smile

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by IronBalls View Post
    Using a torch is not needed and dangerous. He should have stopped after 1 min because there was something wrong with the cpu.
    The first method I used was the one the german used but it did not work. I stopped after 1 min because the cpu was extremely hot and it wasnt moving at all. Then I decided to try with a simple lighter. After 45-60 seconds it popped up without issue. I did some research and the solder used melts at 140-170 C. The PCB can sustain 220C and more. So there is some " room " to play with, not as dangerous as one might think at first.

    Once my phobya liquid arrives I will try it. Liquid metal has really high conductivity, nearly 10 times more than any thermal paste. With only the die to cool down, this might make a huge difference in temperature.
    Right, the CPU is welded to the heatspreader.

  3. #28
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    Hi,

    I just received the phobya liquid that I ordered and did some testing.
    The results are IMPRESSIVE

    With Gelid Extreme temperature maxed out @ 46 C after 30 mins OCCT.

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    With phobya liquid temperature maxed out @ 40 C after 30 mins OCCT.

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    In both cases room temperature was 26 C.

    That is an 6 C improvement compared to Gelid Extreme. If I compare with the temps I had before delidding and with coollaboratory ultra I would estimate the decrease to be 8-9 degrees.

    So it is only worth if you are willing to use liquid paste. I would not advice anyone to do this for only 2-3 C. But 8-9 degrees is a nice decrease in temps.

  4. #29
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    I notice some improvement while overclocking. 4.3 ghz seem possible now.

    30 mins stable @ 4.3 ghz and 1.55v

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Before it would give an error after a few seconds even @ 1.6v

  5. #30
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    I told you, the board is fine

    Gelid Extreme is nice because of how it performs at subzero temperatures. It does lead most conventional TIM though, but the liquid metal (most likely Gallium-Indium alloys) perform much better above their melting point.
    Be careful with that though, since uneven application could lead to hotspots on the die and a dead chip.
    Smile

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by BeepBeep2 View Post
    I told you, the board is fine

    Gelid Extreme is nice because of how it performs at subzero temperatures. It does lead most conventional TIM though, but the liquid metal (most likely Gallium-Indium alloys) perform much better above their melting point.
    Be careful with that though, since uneven application could lead to hotspots on the die and a dead chip.

    I got the crosshair V formula I ordered on ebay, well you were in fact right. It does slightly better than the 890GPA which shows how good this motherboard was. I got finally 4310 mhz rock stable with 1.545v. I can get 4400 mhz stable for some 5 mins but it takes huge voltages of about 1.575v ... Not suited for 24/24h usage. So I will settle for 4.3 ghz.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Im considering buying a FX 8350 as they are cheap and delid it, I just wonder if it will make a difference compared to thuban @ 4.3 ghz.

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