THE SUPER COOLER ( I HOPE BEFORE )
THE SUPER COOLER ( I HOPE BEFORE )
LETS START
don't forget the fan
Last edited by Gaul; 03-17-2014 at 09:15 PM.
ATTACH
- USE MX-4 PASTE
- Thermal paste was print perfectly on the top of the IHS, then no issue about missed-place with the waterblock
i've tried everything, start from small rice drop, vertical pattern, put thin layer over the entire IHS and in the picture the last one i'll try and shoot. but the result is similiar
Last edited by Gaul; 03-20-2014 at 05:45 PM.
RIG
- i7 3770K @ def clock aka clear CMOS
- MSI z77 GD-65 GAMING
- PLATINUM 1000 watt Seasonic
- 8 GB RAM 2666 tridentx
OS
- WIN 7 64 BIT
SOFTWARE
- Hyper PI 0.99b
- CPUZ 1.68.0.x64
- Real Temp 3.70
Last edited by Gaul; 03-18-2014 at 02:52 AM.
I know it won't be the entire cause of 96C, but I use about 1/8th that much MX-5 with excellent results...
i5 2500K @ 4.9GHz+ 8GB G-Skill RipJaws DDR3-2000 @1600Mhz CAS 6 Asus P8P67 Pro CrossFire 6970's @ 950/1450
Xeon X5677 @ 4.5Ghz 6GB G-Skill RipJaws DDR3-2000 @1600Mhz CAS 7 Gigabyte EX58-UD5 4870x2
i7-880 @ 4.2Ghz+ (still playing) 4GB G-Skill RipJaws DDR3-2000 @2300Mhz CAS 9 Asus Maximus III Formula MSI Hawk 5770
sorry 4 my bad english
i've tried everything, start from small rice drop, vertical pattern, put thin layer over the entire IHS and in the picture the last one i'll try and shoot. but the result is similiar
Last edited by Gaul; 03-17-2014 at 09:51 PM.
RESULT
Question is,
Do i got defect ones or i missed something here ?
Last edited by Gaul; 03-21-2014 at 03:31 PM.
Tried using just air cooler?
Asus Rampage IV Formula X79 | EK-MOSFET ASUS RF4 - Acetal Copper
Core i7-3630K@4.5GHz 1.4V | EK-Supreme HF - Full Copper
G.Skill 16GB Quad Kit Ripjaws Z (4x4GB), DDR3 1600MHz, CL 9
EVGA GTX TITAN SC | EK-FC Titan SE Copper - Plexi Full Cover | EK-FC Titan SE Backplate
Corsair AX1200i
Samsung 256gb 830
Intel SSD 160GB X25-M G2
That or bypass using the motherboard connection altogether.
Zalman's water cooling setups have always left a lot to be desired in the past.
The Cardboard Master Crunch with us, the XS WCG team
Intel Core i7 2600k @ 4.5GHz, 16GB DDR3-1600, Radeon 7950 @ 1000/1250, Win 10 Pro x64
here, with intel stock cooler, MX-4 paste
Use auto setting for fan speed coz CLEAR CMOS, not 100 % BUT im sure Fan already full speed, you can hear Very Loud
already bybass WB 3pin to 4 pin molex, and still similiar result around 92-94 C with hyper pi.
but fan still use mobo 4 pin, coz already full speed
Last edited by Gaul; 03-21-2014 at 03:32 PM.
yes, i was thinking that that was ALOT of tim.
yeah i dont know what people are expecting with zalman products.
they have always looked really technical and preformed mediocre at best.
and OP, i have my 4930k running at 4.5ghz at those same temps with an h80i.. if your numbers are way off of reviews of the zalman product then i would rma, those numbers look worse than most air coolers and thats not right. everything your doing with mounting looks fine, abit too much TIM but that shouldnt do that to temps.
is it sitting tight? from the looks of the heatsink after removal it doesnt look like the heatsink gets really tight. the tim is really thick like it didnt get pushed out of the way. if i did that my my setup the tim would be alot lighter in the cpu area as the pressure would squeeze most of it out.
@ ALL = tested without CPU, WB 3 pin with molex and fan with 100 % speed [ set BIOS profile ] LOUD HERE
run for +/- 20 minutes
RAD with cool temp
and
but when i touch WB cooper its around 37-39 C temp, its warm
WELL, is that normal ? any advice ?
Last edited by Gaul; 03-19-2014 at 12:27 AM.
Sounds like that integrated pump throws a fair bit of heat. That surface shouldn't be warm like that in a well designed system.
The Cardboard Master Crunch with us, the XS WCG team
Intel Core i7 2600k @ 4.5GHz, 16GB DDR3-1600, Radeon 7950 @ 1000/1250, Win 10 Pro x64
You could have a defective unit. Does it not come with a warranty?
What are your Flow rates?
Regards, Stew.....
- This message brought to you by Frank Lee E. Snutz
Too bad ZALMAN USA ZALMAN TECH DISCLAIMS ALL OTHER WARRANTIES AND CONDITIONS, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, STATUTORY
OR OTHERWISE, FOR THE PRODUCT. FOR U.S. CUSTOMERS only
and ZALMAN USA said they don't have MAX 3 DUAL
* buy at korea with my family on vacation
SEOUL, Yongsan, Sunin Plaza, Comoasis Store, anyone read korean ?
7 March 2014, price 147.000 WON
then i'll send email to ZALMAN KOREA but they not REPLAY
even i ask to ZALMAN USA about ZALMAN KOREA addres ZALMAN USA did not replay too
Last edited by Gaul; 03-19-2014 at 03:53 PM.
Well, no warranty or support means that you either buy a different unit, or take it apart and examine.
Regards, Stew.....
- This message brought to you by Frank Lee E. Snutz
You right, but i didn't know ZALMAN policy before this, if i knew then i wouldn't buy or even touch it. MY BAD
but i look forward for Zalman KOREA reply my email, before take a part and examine
Does anyone know ZALMAN RESERATOR MAX 3 DUAL review? plz give me the link. if u don't mind
Last edited by Gaul; 03-19-2014 at 04:47 PM.
Step aside, and you won't have to feel the awesome wrath of my mustache!
@ all = with metode thin layer over the entire IHS, use MX-4 paste
Last edited by Gaul; 03-21-2014 at 03:36 PM.
Judging from the fact that the block on top of the CPU (with the integrated pump) is actually heating up just by turning it on, we can safely say there's only 5 things that can go wrong here.
Current condition we know of from your description of the problem:
the pump is running, but not pumping fluid (the heat doesn't get transferred to the radiator), probable due to:
1. Since you're connecting the pump into the MB, you may want to check the MB BIOS for fan speed control. Make sure it's on either Standard or Turbo profile (not silent). If the pump is on PWM control, having it on silent profile would barely make the pump operate. Best way to test this one is just to connect the pump to a standard molex plug from the PSU using an adapter instead of connecting it to the MB.
(NVM this one, just noticed you already taken this possibility into consideration.)
2. a stuck air pocket in the pump - in which case, when you shake/turn it from side to side, it should have dislodged already. So highly unlikely unless the channels are way too small. In which case, you need to use something like a syringe to force fluid into the pump and dislodge that air pocket.
3. faulty pump - it's just plain broken. Won't spin to pump the fluid, but still generating heat.
4. there is no fluid in the first place. They forgot to put fluid in when they assembled it or it leaked out.
5. there is something in the tubing/radiator that is preventing flow. Sometimes during construction, metal shavings get into the rads. If they didn't flush it out, it may damage pumps and/or introduce blockage.
In any case, since RMA is out of the question, you just need to test each theory one by one. Starting with ones that doesn't require dismantling the unit. At this point, I don't think you can just try remounting it over and over again.
The temps is just way off. Something is wrong with the reserator. We just need to know what.
Last edited by washu9; 03-22-2014 at 01:00 AM. Reason: clarification
Last edited by Gaul; 03-22-2014 at 03:39 AM.
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