Lens for night and day landscapes

[Soulburner]

I have probably read everything there is to read on the internet about the sensational Sigma 18-35 f/1.8. I'm choosing a wide angle lens to shoot landscapes during the day and night, including milky way (astro) photography.

According to Lenstip, the resolution is nearly identical to the Tokina 11-16 f/2.8, only it opens up 1 stop brighter - critical for night sky shots where the difference between a 12 second or 25 second exposure means blurry stars.

The Tokina has noticeable CA, the Sigma does not. Both handle coma well. The Tokina is soft in the corners at it's widest aperture, the Sigma is not.

For landscapes during day or night, the Tokina has the focal length advantage to get nice foreground detail. The Sigma has the aperture advantage to get a nice sharp night sky. But is it wide enough?

The Sigma also would double as a normal lens, whereas the ultra-wide Tokina is specialized and I likely wouldn't use it for much else.

The Rokinon 14 f/2.8 is ruled out because of its rounded glass, making it unsuitable for daytime landscaping, and its inability to fit a filter like an ND grad or CP.

What would you do? Is 18mm acceptable to get a sharp f/1.8? Or would you take the 11-16, gaining field of view but compromising at f/2.8?

[Soulburner]

Examples of the kinds of shooting I want to do:
http://miketaylorphoto.com/

Tokina AT-X 116 PRO DX II AF 11-16 mm f/2.8
http://www.lenstip.com/379.4-Lens_re...esolution.html

Sigma A 18-35 mm f/1.8 DC HSM
http://www.lenstip.com/374.4-Lens_re...esolution.html

[Soulburner]

I think the best solution may involve using the 18-35 1.8 and stitching. There is just no other 18 1.8 lens and the aperture will be indispensable.

Landscape mode (3x2), one hyperfocal exposure of the landscape (say f/11), one exposure of the sky (if night, wide open aperture @ f/1.8). Stitch them together. Then the question is, where should the stitch line be? At the bottom of the sky or the top of the land? Which will blend better?

I welcome any thoughts on this.

[hokiealumnus]

I think the f/1.8 is your best bet since you want to use it for astrophotography. It's not like 2.8 is slow, but 1.8 is that much faster and you need it for your intended purpose. Your conclusion is precisely what I was going to suggest - just take multiple photos & stitch them together. That will take away your only concern about the lens.

Regrettably I know absolutely nothing about stitching photos together, you'd have to ask someone that knows a thing or three about Photoshop. I possess the program but have no clue how to use it properly yet.

EDIT - Since you're stitching anyway, if you have some cash to burn and want a slightly faster lens, Nikon has an expensive fixed 24mm f/1.4 lens. Adorama has one used (D condition, which is nearly perfect) for $1,749.

[Soulburner]

I haven't purchased yet, but I ended up choosing the Samyang / Rokinon 16mm f/2.

http://www.lenstip.com/index.html?te...wu&test_ob=380

[BenchZowner]

The Samyang is a very good choice.
Tokina's solution is great and very decent for its price tag, but sadly Tokina has yet to figure out a proper multicoating solution to minimize lens flare & ghosting.

[Darakian]

I don't think anything is gonna beat that sigma that you listed, but it's also the most expensive. If price isn't a big deal get the sigma, otherwise I'd get the tokina.

[Soulburner]

The Samyang easily beats the Tokina in resolution and is almost 1 stop faster, and is almost 1/2 the price of the Sigma 18-35, yet wider. I think it's a good choice. I'll probably get the Sigma 17-50 f/2.8 though.

It's looking like this...

Rokinon 16mm f/2 (don't have)
Sigma 17-50 f/2.8 (have Tamron currently)
Nikon AF-S 50mm f/1.8G (have)
Nikon AF-S 85mm f/1.8G (don't have)
Nikon AF-S VR 70-300 f/4.5-5.6G (have)

I might eventually get a 10mm fisheye for 180 degree Milky Way shots, but that's an expense I won't be able to justify for a while.

[Soulburner]

Revised gear list.

Rokinon 16mm f/2 (have, this is for landscapes and nightscapes)
Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 II (have, this lens is on my camera the most and is often used indoor with flash)
Nikon AF-S 50mm f/1.8G (have)
Tamron 60mm Macro (don't have, will replace Nikon 50 1.8 with it when they update their focus motor to a newer design. It will be for portraits and macros)
Nikon AF-S VR 70-300 f/4.5-5.6G (have, this is for wildlife in well lit areas, such as zoos. Also good at airshows and well-lit outdoor sporting events)

I also have an SB-600, SB-700, and 2 LumoPro LP160s.

After much testing, the Tamron 17-50 lens focuses better on my D7100 than it did on my D300, and given its high level of sharpness I am going to keep it. The Sigma would be a gamble in AF performance and its chip needs reprogramming before its issues on Nikon bodies can be resolved. I don't have anything long and fast, but that's getting into big $ territory and I couldn't justify it unless I was doing indoor event photography or sports. I think I have all my bases covered.