argh I hate using dielectric grease
argh I hate using dielectric grease
I will limit its use to spaces that I can't cover with anything else. I'm going to experiment with the block. In spaces that are slightly raised I'll coat it with a light adhesive then use a spray foam that I can level with the contact points and see how that works. However the big gap where the capacitors are will be filled with grease given . I'm going to mold a piece of foam around the base of the capacitors, then fill the gap in the block to encase the tops. I am considering using a ceramic thermal grease in that space, but that would be a lot more expensive than dielectric grease.
Regards, Stew.....
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Sorry if I missed this, but what GPU's are you planning on using ?
LOL... depends on what is out...
I intend on using 7950 Radeon cards.... Likely 3 of them. The machine will be part folding, part workstation, part gaming machine... I know its overkill.... but I tend to hang on to these things for years.... The computer I use at home is nearing 6 years old now.... hehe....
Regards, Stew.....
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Actually, if I want to use that Heatkiller block (preferred)... It looks like I'd have to use 7970s... Which is fine... just a bit more..
Regards, Stew.....
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Would putting rubber eraser in the capacitor area of the cpu not be enough or even adequate for insulation? I'm a newb at insulating and decided to go with some rubber eraser, but not sure about the small gaps especially around the immediate socket area.
Rubber eraser is popular, but I don't like its workability. On a CPU socket it isn't as big of a deal close in because most motherboards have a decent amount of space. But I'd rather not be applying pressure to a graphics card in that way. There are several areas under the full cover block that would be a bit hard to cover with eraser reliably. Not to mention the stress it would place on the PCB given the uneven compression of the block.
For such an application, I prefer to use materials that will allow for some compression, while insulating somewhat effectively. As far as the CPU socket, I probably still won't use eraser. The jury is still out on that. Though, it will likely involve a more dense polyurethane foam or similar at the core (the part of the insulation that doesn't contact capacitors). Anything that contacts the capacitor area, I want it to be soft. Some polyurethane foams expand in such a way that they create a lot of stress and could probably separate a few capacitors from the board... So I won't be using anything like that near capacitors.
That said, rubber eraser isn't something I'm going to chastise.. it obviously works to serve a purpose. I'd just rather use something else.
Regards, Stew.....
- This message brought to you by Frank Lee E. Snutz
Microwave that eraser for 20-30 seconds first, it becomes very workable
Yeah, but you're talking about using fingers... Its not going to be very smooth, and you still have to apply more pressure than I'm comfortable applying on expensive electronics.. Plus, how much does it contract when it cools??? I feel more comfy with a mold and some urethane foam...
Regards, Stew.....
- This message brought to you by Frank Lee E. Snutz
LOL Stew, it works great man, I have used it like a million times.
I just applied it all around the socket and back of the board. Seems great and I didn't have to apply much preassure to be honest I actually filled the cavity of the socket too and machine is up and running great.
Well, like I said, I'm primarily concerned about using it under a full cover GPU block. I need to have complete contact in a consistent manner that is repeatable. Rubber eraser is more apt to the CPU socket. It makes a good vapor barrier. I am indeed considering it for the CPU socket area.
Its the GPU I'm more concerned about. I have actually considered utilizing a ceramic thermal grease as a vapor barrier... It won't conduct electricity so I can spread it like peanut butter. It will fill all of the caps, and then I can seal it in with a soft calking compound. hehe... I dunno, just thinking... Might be ultra expensive, though...
Regards, Stew.....
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The project shall continue >=). I got the Cedar Planks for the base. I'm going to surface them and then I'll begin to assemble the base.
Regards, Stew.....
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Today was all about the bottom frame.
The outer base is made out of cedar. Not only is it easy to work with, but its light weight. The pine studs are going to carry the weight of the chiller to the floor. The cedar will carry some on each end, but the sides will only do so indirectly. After talking design with pops, I elected not to utilize a plywood floor. It is generally unnecessary and will give no additional support given that the chiller already has a base.
I can see that carrying this thing might be difficult...
By completing this base, I will be able to route the piping and the final wiring connections successfully. The refrigeration loop is complete. Gauges are installed, and only the water loop must be completed on both sides of the refrigeration loop.
Oh... and boy I love the smell of cedar... hehe.
Regards, Stew.....
- This message brought to you by Frank Lee E. Snutz
As it turns out, the "contraption" wasn't as heavy as I thought it would be. The design actually worked out quite well. The measurements worked out quite well.
Regards, Stew.....
- This message brought to you by Frank Lee E. Snutz
The measurements were right on. The red circled flare elbow will pass through the base and will run beneath. The second image shows where the inner frame is. The placement worked out so well that I'll be able to clamp the insulated tubing right to the stud.
Proud of my work hehe.
That's it so far.
Regards, Stew.....
- This message brought to you by Frank Lee E. Snutz
I'll take that as sarcasm and not an insult...
I was psyched because usually when I try to measure for placement I @#$%$# something up...
Last edited by Stewie007; 09-29-2013 at 07:07 AM.
Regards, Stew.....
- This message brought to you by Frank Lee E. Snutz
Looks really good Stew, almost like you know what your doing!
A part of me just died from oxygen deprivation after all the laughter.
But seriously, this thing looks great.
If you have a cooling question or concern feel free to contact me.
I know that. hehe... I just got a kick out of it because it reminded me of how giddy I was when I measured after the placement. I'm not used to the feeling of satisfaction...hehehe
There is always some way I'm going to nitpick something that I've done because something didn't end up to be EXACTLY as I had planned. This time it worked out EXACTLY as planned.... Probably because I listened to my old man for a change and developed a proper base design.
Regards, Stew.....
- This message brought to you by Frank Lee E. Snutz
I love this build i might have to see it in action one day BF4 needs this
Intel i5 3570K@4.6ghz, Swiftech Apogee GTZ, mcp655, Typhoon III and mcr320
Gigabyte Z77X-UD3H, 8GB 2000 cl9, M4 128GB SSD, 2TB W-D green USB3.0
MSI 7870 HAWK 1300gpu /1450mem, ASUS VG23AH 23" IPS 3D 72hz
PCP&C 750W in CM651 case
89 Ford Mustang coupe burnt orange on chrome ponies
Bum & Hater #1
HEATWARE: d50man
I am hoping to complete wiring this weekend, as well as the routing of the final piping. I am not certain if I'll be able to charge the unit, however. I still don't have any glycol, and its expensive. I've changed my mind and decided to go with Ethylene Glycol; its better for low temp apps.
Either way, I'm going to try to do a final evacuation and possibly an initial charge. That remains to be seen, though....
Regards, Stew.....
- This message brought to you by Frank Lee E. Snutz
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