Mayhems "Pastel Blue" Problem

[cz_mawa]

For anybody who si interested in solution, current situation is, that after few hours of flushing many litres of soap water through the aquaduct, the pump and flow meter is now working again, but with one imperfection - the flow rate dropped by about 20%, so there is still something stuck inside of aquaduct. And also, the temperature sensors are still dead, displaying random numbers, so aquaduct is little bit crazy about it

So now I have put inside some other fluid, which I know that it can clean a lot of different mess from my past experience. I will keep it there for week or two, and i hope it will dissolve rest of the gunk. I hope that the temperature sensors will work again too.

[Sparky]

Good luck with the cleanup. I've had some nasty funk in my loop (I still don't know what combination of grossness it was) and I almost thought I was going to have to replace everything until I found the one natural cleaner I have actually dissolved the stuff. Saved a boatload of cash.

Basically, if one thing doesn't quite work, try something else! Just be careful with anything acidic or stuff like alcohol around plexiglass. Acrylic doesn't like that stuff and will crack.

[cz_mawa]

Basically, if one thing doesn't quite work, try something else!

I dont agree with that, and thats why I made this thread and asked for help. From my basic knowledge of chemistry and physics I expect that there are many fluids in the world which actually can make this mess MUCH worse than it was in the beginning. So much worse that then it would not be possible to clean it any more.

[mlwood37]

Hi there.

Ive not received that email you sent or the second one all though we have received others since you posted from our web site.

PM me your Email address and i will send you a email from a different account so we sort this out.

As for flushing out your system - Sysclean will do the job as well as Primochills new product for cleaning out the tube as it removes the plasticizer. Some users have reported that a mix of isopropanol and water also does a really good job how ever im quite dubious of that method as plastic can crack if they use to much. Also once it is cleaned out you may wish to check if your rad has any flux left inside it floating around as this can block you system rapidly and is a common problem when making rads. We should know we failed several rads when we made them and they had this problem.

thank you.

Mick

[Kvickstick]

That is some serious ! Ive been using the Pastel Orange for about 5 months with no issues. Finished my yearly maintenance last week and found no staining or cloging, the tubing was fine as well (Masterkleer)

[Gimmpy224]

Wow, some hate here. And your still waiting for a reply. He's a one man company and could be on vacation. You should wait. And If I remember right, it's not his fault. In his disclaimers and never added to his web page. It should be. Expecting replacement etc never ever happens, you should know that by now building systems the last 10 years.

He say's you can have issues, use it and best of luck pretty much.

It's a nitch product, and something to PLAY with. Not for the faint of heart or ones who have to build systems and maintain them for other people.

Distilled water and a biocide. It seems to work?

I use distilled water and a biocide, and I take care of my stuff.

Ok, since im not to regular on these forums anymore after many of the old users I knew no longer post here, ill be pretty blunt about this.


If I remember correctly, and I am 95% sure I do, when Mayhem introduced these dyes to this forum and in the year after it, he made it well known that it was a product to be used ONLY for show, NOT for daily use, and that it was to be used by experienced people who were willing to risk their hardware for a photo shoot.


That being said, I have not checked the site nor his profile nor this forum for his posts to see if there were any disclaimers posted up for newer users who had no idea. If that is the case then shame on him. IF there are such things lurking about, then shame on you for lack of research.

Now I do feel bad for your situation, but as I have seen similar threads to this time and time again about his dyes, and responses mirroring the one I just made, I must say that I am in no way surprised.

[Gimmpy224]

ALSO, if you are looking for a way to clean it, and shame on any of you oldtimers here for not thinking of this, WHITE VINEGAR. Also, if you are going to clean off your blocks, ketchup! The low PH of both with dissolve any built up gunk in the system, and the PH is not low enough to do any real damage to it.


At least that was how we did it 6 years ago lol.

[Petra]

When the trolls stop destroying forums then maybe company's will come back and work with users. until that happens support will only be given though forums were more respect is given or via email.

Pro tip: Ditch this attitude--things are no worse now than they were in the past and all you're doing is reducing the quality of your interaction with the community, painting yourself as standoffish/defensive, and alienating your customers. Also, if for whatever reason you feel that you shouldn't abandon said outlook, then you may want to avoid making public statements like the one above.

Then again, what do I know?

[eskamobob1]

All of mayhems products (with the exception of aurora) are tested and approved for long term use to my knowledge... I have also not seen a large quantity of mayhem dies or ice dragon liquid failures... As for the vinigar, as a low pH can effect many dies (including ice dragon fluid) so I was hesitant to recommend white vinigar (a pH of about 4-5)... As for the ketchup, I think the OP was the most concerned about his rad that he didn't want to disassemble, so I didn't even bring it up

@OP
Hows the cleanup going?

[relttem]

Ice Dragon is very pH sensitive, that is why we recommend not mixing it with anything..unless done correctly - as Mayhem does. But, we are working on a new mix that will not be as sensitive to pH..hopefully, soon we can get past that. When we clean systems out here we use a product called Greased Lightening. Greased Lightening is one of the best cleaners I have ever used. We flush it with some greased lightening and then DI water a few times to make sure it is ready to go. We also like to let everything dry out before we go back to Ice Dragon, and finally we will wet everything with Ice Dragon before adding it back to the system - run it through the tubing, slosh it around the reservoir etc.

[cz_mawa]

@OP
Hows the cleanup going?

nothing new yet, the temperature sensors are still not working. i will let it work for two weeks or so and if it wont get any better, i will try probably the white vinegar...

[Gimmpy224]

If you go with the white vinegar ive only ever let it sit overnight.

When I last cleaned my loop it had built up quite a bit of gunk in the jets and inside the pump/rad (mainly from the fact i used a pink anti-freeze). The Vinegar ate that crap out pretty quick.

After that its the fun task of pulling the loop apart and giving it a proper rinsing / scrubing with alcohol and running more vinegar through the rad.

[mlwood37]

Now in contact with the op the reason why i never got any email was the op was given incorrect info from some one and was handed a dead email box. We can now go though the process of helping op out .

[eskamobob1]

well gl OP ... be careful when using vinigar though, i would only leave it in for a few hours max

[pika198]

So much crying in this thread, oh my! Relax :banana::banana::banana::banana::banana:cats and take this as a lesson. You play with fancy dyes and colors you run the risk of junk in your water cooling trunk. This has been known since 2004+ whether it was FluidXP, Feser, etc. Either use colored tubing or deal with the risk of dye build up and headaches down the road. I thought we've learned this by now.

[eskamobob1]

So much crying in this thread, oh my! Relax :banana::banana::banana::banana::banana:cats and take this as a lesson. You play with fancy dyes and colors you run the risk of junk in your water cooling trunk. This has been known since 2004+ whether it was FluidXP, Feser, etc. Either use colored tubing or deal with the risk of dye build up and headaches down the road. I thought we've learned this by now.

wow... that was a bit of a harsh reply... even with just DI and a kill coil you can still run into issues (heck, its a large part of what can cause nickel corrosion)... the fact is though, that since 2004 we have gotten much better at making dyes and fluids... there is still a chance of fluids clogging, but there is still a risk of a WC set up leaking... i haven seen mayhems stuff serperate out like this before, and i have used it in several builds (a few that have been running it for a year +)... what im trying to say is, either help or dont post

[Sparky]

wow... that was a bit of a harsh reply... even with just DI and a kill coil you can still run into issues (heck, its a large part of what can cause nickel corrosion)...

According to EK.

I still don't buy it.

[eskamobob1]

According to EK.

I still don't buy it.

and the 3 chemists and 2 material engineers that i know as well... because of the process that is used to nickel plate blocks (not just EKs but all of them), silver will rather easily ionize and restore the nickel to its origonal state.. thats why the corrosion happens, and the nickel seperates from the base material (usualy copper)

[Sparky]

I don't use nickel plated blocks anyway

I'd be just as happy if my barbs weren't nickel plated either as the nickel always wears off eventually.

[cz_mawa]

Now in contact with the op the reason why i never got any email was the op was given incorrect info from some one and was handed a dead email box. We can now go though the process of helping op out .

On the other hand I have sent same text through your contact form on your web pages and get no response too

For this reason the contact form I have i.e. on my web pages works like this:

1) Copy of the text which somebody writes there is immediatelly sent to the customers email too, so he knows that we recieved that questions.
2) On the web pages there is clearly stated, that copy of the text will be send to customers email as confirmation, so in case that customer does not recieve that mail, something is wrong - its in spam, contact form is not working, he used wrong email address etc. But at least customer knows that something is wrong and that he will probably do not recieve any response (or he will have it in spam folder)...

So if your only contact with company customers is the contact form on your web pages, i think that you should take very much care about making it work for 100%. Because in my case i have just sent the text into some "black hole" and i didnt know if it actually reaches you.

[mlwood37]

Noted ill look into the contact form and get some one with more noggin on web design go though it. Im no pro at web design and this is some thing we've been needing to do for a bit now.