Manic's latest Acrylic Project

[Manicdan]

Goal:
I carry my PC around quite often and have made a few different builds of PCs in Briefcases. However those were larger and heaver than what I needed. I spent nearly a year designing the case for specific pieces while still trying to keep it in standards for if I needed to swap things out. The build had to be compact, lighter, and look good.



Features:
Very Compact Size. Overall dimensions are 9.5" x 11" x 18.5". Its actual size is nearly the same as the Silverstone FT03, except mine includes a rather large radiator. Siting next to a typical mid tower it looks half the size.

Can Sit or Stand. There are case feet on the bottom and the side, allowing the case to be laid down to sit up

Handles for Travel. Easily removed carrying handles for quick travel when needed.

Lightweight. Total weight for PC is under 30lbs

Silent. A few GT AP-15s at low speed and low speed pump make the PC about as close to inaudible as possible.

Cool. The triple 120mm radiator is more than enough to keep an OCed 2500k and GTX-680 and the Motherboard, all cooler than a decent Heatsink could at these noise levels.

Any GPU. Enough room for Graphics Cards up to 13" in either slot.

Key Started. Uses a Momentary Key Switch to start the PC. Honestly this purchase was by random luck. Only $11 for this compared to nearly $20 for a LED Momentary Switch that is not nearly as awesome.

Hot Swap. Can hold two 2.5" Hard Drives with easy removal.

Looks Good. Don't you agree?



Hardware:
Maxiums IV Gene
2500k
2x 1866 CL-9 4GB Corsair Sniper
Zotac GTX-680
128GB Crucial C300
500GB Segate Momentus XT
650W Seasonic Gold Rated PSU

Water Cooling:
Swiftech Apogee Low Profile CPU Block
Swiftech MCR-320 Drive Radiator w/ PWM MCP35X Pump
EK GeForce 680 GTX Block - Acetal+EN (Nickel)
EK-MOSFET Max IV Gene Block - Acetal+EN (Nickel)
Gentle Typhoon AP-15 1800rpm Fans
PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Red Tubing - 3/8in ID x 5/8in OD
Enzotech G1/4" Thread 90-Degree Rotary Barb Fitting - 3/8" ID Matte Black
Enzotech G1/4" Thread Barb Fitting - 3/8" - Matte Black
Koolance Hose Clamp 16mm

Other PC Parts:
I/O Shield for Danger Den or Custom Cases - 7 Slot
Manhattan SATA Drive Rack Dual Drive, L-type, Internal, 2.5"
Bitspower Mesh Radguard 360 - Black Aluminum
2x Lian Li Case Feet - SD-01B 4pack - Black
NZXT Premium Sleeved Bright LED Kit - 2 Meter - Red

McMaster-Carr Build Parts:
Key Switch - Momentary - Screw Terminal
Plastic-head Thumb Screw With Socket Drive, 6-32 Thread, 13/32" Length
Scratch-resistant Clear Cast Acrylic Sheet, 7/32" - Black and Clear



End Results:
Some nice DSLR Images

My brother was in town and brought his Nikon D60. So we picked up a tripod and remote to get the best image accuracy. Built a photo-tent about 3ft wide and deep and almost 4ft tall. And had some fun. After that weekend I was almost ready to drop nearly a grand on a nice camera myself.








































Playing with different Exposure times on the camera. The first I think is about 2 seconds, the last is about 30 seconds, all with the ISO as low as it could handle.

[Trox]

Amazing my friend! I would have use High Speed GT's and PWM wire-them so everything go smoother...

[Manicdan]

Part 1: Renderings through Google Sketchup

















This is to show that the fins on the Rad are shaped like the real ones. I found too many examples that just used a fake texture, and the method of repeating a Component in Sketchup means it only took 5 minutes to go from crap to perfect.

[Manicdan]

Part 2: The Stuff and Prep.

All the parts I had at the time. Some of the stuff was already in use on my machine, some of it was new for this build.
















The PC while i was working on the case. Those with good eyesight might notice the paper towel behind the GPU. Yes there was a leak due to a rotary fitting. Found out theres 2 sets of threads, when one is loose it lets the rotary spin easier, but prone to leaking.




My workshop, lol. Yes this whole thing was done with:

1. Table Saw with a very nice plastic cutting blade
2. Drill Press
3. Miter Saw
4. And some hand tools

[Manicdan]

Part 3: Clinch Nuts:

These were a new idea I saw from another build here on XS and loved the idea. You can see what they look like in the top left corner of the next image. In my time of working with acrylic the methods of holding them together were always annoying. I use to use machine screws and nuts. However they would constantly loosen from vibration. Even if I added in washers it was a total pain. Then i switched to flush mounted black oxide machine screws with black oxide nuts that had nylon cores. Those were great at giving a nice solid grip that never came undone. Although they did have some depth issues and I needed to use two tools to take them out, one for the bolt side and one for the nut side.

So then I see Clinch nuts, and these little guys basically give threads to the material you push them into. Similar to Set Screws, which I've used in the past as well, except with forces designed to work in the opposite direction. (I can go into more detail if people care)

But there's a problem even with Clinch Nuts, I don't have a giant Arbor Press. But thanks to physics I found a solution.

After drilling the holes of the right size I used a cheap machine screw and a bunch of washes on one side, and the nut on the other side. Then I simply used a flat-head screwdriver and twisted until it was hand tight.


To get them really tight though I needed extra leverage. Thus I locked down the screwdriver and rotated the material. Because most beams were 6-11" long, it was plenty of force to pull the nut into place with the same leverage I would get from a 1 or 2 ton Arbor Press


Sadly there were many casualties of the machine screws. Although not a single thread was damaged for the Clinch Nuts. I guess that goes to show the difference between good and crappy material.


The end result looks nice and functions very well. Combine these with my thumbscrews, I have no problems with screws coming loose, and I no longer have to hold down the nut as I remove screws. It really worked out nicely. (Wait until you see them painted)

[Manicdan]

Part 4: Solvent Welding:

This was something I learned from seeing other builds and thought it would be perfect for creating a strong a light case. The scary part is always transparency and any form of bonding, so that's why the black acrylic gets bonded, and the clear acrylic still uses aluminum beams and thumb screws. Some of the pictures really show how lovely the glossy black color really is.

So the basic thing is you apply this liquid right along the edge and hopefully if the angle and pressure are right it sucks it up. after a few minutes you now have once solid piece. The needle you see is to help apply the liquid, which is less viscous than you can imagine. Even if I point the needle downward just a little, it pours right out.




This image does a great job showing how good the black acrylic looks. Reflecting off reflections!

[Manicdan]

Part 5: Building and Assembly
Just a bunch of photos of cutting and bolting it all together















































Aluminum shards are the worst cause they fly all over the place and can cause some nice splinters.




The final result! This is also the only post showing the handles. They are carabiners, some chain on the inside that is almost exactly 3/8" across, and its wrapped in black 3/8-5/8th tubing for a nice soft grip.

[miahallen]

Excellent project Manic, I love the results....now just get another GPU in there

[Manicdan]

Excellent project Manic, I love the results....now just get another GPU in there

sure, no problem, as long as someone donates 650$. although this thing is more than fast enough for my 1920x1200 monitor. and ive never been too much of a fan of sli/xfire.

theres also room for another radiator too. the exhaust fan is placed so that i can add a second one above it and fit a 120x2 rad near the gpus

[El Mano]

I can't believe I just learnt about this thread.
Dude your case is awesome!!!
Congratulations, awesome job and skills