Nice build,but i think you should paint the inside of the case in black matte due to all the scratchs it has suffered and also those screws in the back of the case can be smaller.
the reservoir should have the same treatment as the blocks. Hope to see new updates
It is not done yet.Originally Posted by Raiden
But the frosted reservoir is here to stay. I definitely like it too much.
you should buy my chassis and build a matching file server
your hardline work is pretty awesome
Last edited by NKrader; 03-10-2014 at 06:17 PM.
I already like my server.you should buy my chassis and build a matching file server
your hardline work is pretty awesome
Received a new pump, pump top, and pump case the other day. Spend a lot of day going nuts on polishing. Still finding ways to improve.
Stock
With the silly looking mounting accessories.
Gave the pump casing a quick polish w/ some Autosol.
Even polished the lip of the pump since it will be visible.
After the sand and polish job it looked like this.
But then I started to continue just polishing the block while watching some TV last night. A couple of hours later and I think this is about as clear as acrylic can get.
Wow, great job on polishing!
What grit sand paper did you use?
That's a pretty insane polish job, your attention to detail amazes me
From 400 to 2000. I made a simple guide over on OCN.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1477681/p...ps-tricks/0_20
Thanks.
Took the rig down yesterday. Started by redoing the GPU block. Sanded it down to 400 grit. Then worked the way up to 3000. Then polished it again. Also repolished the nickel w/ some Autosol. Definitely happy w/ the outcome.
Size comparison between the D5 and the DDC.
This build will be done one day :P
-PB
-Project Sakura-
Intel i7 860 @ 4.0Ghz, Asus Maximus III Formula, 8GB G-Skill Ripjaws X F3 (@ 1600Mhz), 2x GTX 295 Quad SLI
2x 120GB OCZ Vertex 2 RAID 0, OCZ ZX 1000W, NZXT Phantom (Pink), Dell SX2210T Touch Screen, Windows 8.1 Pro
Koolance RP-401X2 1.1 (w/ Swiftech MCP35X), XSPC EX420, XSPC X-Flow 240, DT Sniper, EK-FC 295s (w/ RAM Blocks), Enzotech M3F Mosfet+NB/SB
The plan is actually to finish it before it gets powered on next.
Unfrosted the reservoir.
Picture of the pump all assembled.
Repolished the LTX.
Pic w/ the CPU block in place.
Had to modify the tubing a bit to fit, but not much work. I honestly think this monster pump/stand looks pretty decent here. Makes the case look slightly less empty.
And the sleeved acrylic tube. Relatively confident this won't leak :p. Had to drill out the compression rings a bit. The sleeving needs to be perfectly cut, perfect length, and a perfect melt. With this though it was relatively easier to install, it definitely won't pull out of place.
I gave my GPU block another quick polish on the top. This time not washing it off afterward.
Not sure why it took me so long to figure this out. But it is possible to remove the fan blades from GTs without any tools. Just a heatgun. Slowly heat the front and front-sides of the hub. The glue will slowly let go. Then just pull the hub off.
And speaking of fans....
Nibbled the two other shrouds. Mockups of them in place.
Last edited by lowfat; 04-11-2014 at 07:28 PM.
So my goal was too have the case ready for powdercoating today. However I have misjudged how much work I had remaining
The first shroud I cut to cover up the radiator mounting screws and the nasty stock aluminum ended up not looking right so I ended up cutting a new one that just covers the entire piece of aluminum (minus where the 5.25" covers snap in to place). Also have started working on flush mounting all the screws. All the screw heads for the cable management have been cut off. All of the screws have also been cut down to length. Used my cordless dremel which I must say is one of my favourite tools I have. I still need to make two more cable management retention bars as I was not happy w/ the way a few of the wires went. Still have to cut down all the standoffs as they are all slightly too long.
The filler I will be using to cover all the cut down standoffs and cable management screws. This stuff was extremely pricey in Canada but it was the only stuff I could find that will hold up @ 350F.
My pump top was the only acrylic I still had not polished and left the coating on the outside. So I did that quickly today.
I have been saving my larger nibbles for the last 4 months specifically so I could take these pictures.
And almost a 1:1 crop. That piece of aluminum is 2mm thick to get a sense of prospective.
Lab Metal filler is the only thing short of lead I could think of to fill those holes. I did leadwork as a teenager in my dad's shop-best teen years ever, working on hot rods with him.
I can not see myself using lead well since I don't have a garage. Hopefully the Lab Metal will work though.
Not really an update just a whole lot of hardware pics. I recently upgrade my lighting so photography quality definitely improved IMO.
I actually did some work on the case.
Sanding the screw/standoff holes.
Applying the Lab Metal. Stuff sure is not easy to apply.
After it dries though it is really hard. Takes a lot of work to sand it smooth. Pictured here are some screw holes from the original pump that I was no longer using so I am attempting to fix them. I grinded down some fan screws in the holes. Then Lab Metal'ed over them. Then sanded. I will be doing a second application tomorrow morning.
And a few more macros.
ing amazing..
jesus, wana get married?
Only if you do the cooking and cleaning.
Finished with the patch work. So glad too as it was some seriously boring and tedious work.
Worked on mostly boring things today. Added a few cable management standoffs to clean up a few of the wires as I didn't like the look of them. Also added a bunch more rivets to the back panel for better fit. Will not post pics of either since no one wants to see rivets. I did however do this. I was damn near pulling my hair in frustration as EK seriously messed up and put the mounting holes behind the pump body.
Reinstalled some of the hardware to work on final measurements for the few remaining holes.
Been working on filing, sanding, patching the backplate the last while. Still not quite there but soon. Bunch of WIP pics.
Oh !
Uh thanks.
Finished up my vacation this week so back at it. Went to Alaska for some sight-seeing / fishing. I'll post a few pics and link to the rest if you are actually intersted.
(I'm on the far left)
http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulc...?sort=3&page=1
And now back to modding.. Unfortunately I am still working on cleaning up the metalwork. Everything I think I am getting close to being done I find myself being unhappy w/ something else. After finishing this round of sanding I should in theory only need one more round of patching.
Modifying a 120mm Gentle Typhoon to fit 140mm radiators.
Equipment required:
- Gentle Typhoon
- Bitspower / Bgears 120 to 140mm fan adapter
- painters tape
- hacksaw
- glue
- clamps
- heatgun
1.Take a stock GT.
2.Heat up the hub of the fan. Use high heat and a lot of it all over to loosen the glue.
3. Pull blades off of GT. Takes a bit of force. Easier if the hub was nice and hot.
4. Cover up the fan motor w/ some painting tape to prevent all the plastic crap from getting inside. Then take a hacksaw to the side of the fan. Do all 4 sides until the two pieces come apart.
5. You'll need to cut a hole for the fan cable to passthrough the 140mm adapter. I screwed the fan together w/ a nut so I made sure to cut the whole at the right spot.
6. Glue the two pieces together. Put the glue around the screw holes on the fan body. Then clamp it together. I used glue instead of screws due to clearance issues.
I am not sure if there is a drop in performance or not but I was still getting sufficient air through the radiator afterward.
And a few pics of fan before I moved to glue.
Comparing the new modded GT to the original + adapter.
I suspect that the performance of the modded may be weirdly lower (not sure though), the fan walls are amid the fan-blade width. What about adding a small 120mm tube ring on top of the adapter to cover them up ?
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