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Thread: ASUS GTX680 DCUII TOP voltmod

  1. #1
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    ASUS GTX680 DCUII TOP voltmod

    Can anyone please clarify this image from a VR-Zone review:

    hotwirediagram.jpg
    How do i wire the resistor? 10kOhm is ok ? I dont have this sort of motherboard, only the graphics card.


    Here i just follow the instructions and get to adjust core voltage in Afterburner via offset?
    ocp1.jpg.jpeg
    ocp2.jpg.jpeg

  2. #2
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    Damb its about time we get some people wanting to hard mod a new card and not cry about no software voltage.
    There will be no software to increase voltage you will do it with a screwdriver and turning the screw on the vr...i always turn very slow but you will need to turn it alot at first if you use a 10k vr just go slow wehn your close to 1.35v cus the 10k vr will go from 1.35v to 1.50v in less then a quarter turn! i use just 5k vr the other card i did has a 10k cus thats what i had.
    slow down around 1.10 in 2d follow this thread its very easy....
    http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2248394
    2d voltage around 1.12v is about 1.35ish 3d 1.18 2d is about 1.42ish 3d

    i just used a broken fan and cut the wires and 3 pin off of it,then cut one of the wires off leaving a "2 wire pin" that i could just push the two vr's terminals into making it quick connect/disconnect using the two end wholes of the 3pin connecter
    you can even use a "conductive pen" to brigde the two pads and use no solder at all by pushing the vgpu wire in the hole marked and the read wire in the whole marked then hold in place with a putty(like used for dice/ln2 waterproofing)or tape but you should solder ground wire on.
    if you want to use solder just "tin wires slightly and push thruogh the holes hold iron to the point on the pbc and you should be good,no need to get alot of solder or get sloppy
    SOooo you need to have
    1, 1 dmm for reading voltage in all stages
    2, 10 -20 turn vr you must set to 5k
    3, 3 wires (1 foot long for me since i have no case so its easy for me you may go longer shorter)

    My steps are
    first to brigde the two pads together with solder or condutive pen
    second take off the resister with solder iron(i carefully bust it off with small screwdriver yikes lol)
    ok then ready to start adding the vr
    set vr(i set a 10k to 5k for first boot) make sure you remember which way to turn vr to add or decrease voltage(+- resistance)depends on whioch two terminals you used front two or back two(must NOT be the 2 at the end they MUST be 2 next to each other so either 1-2 or 2-3)
    get a wire in the ovg hole(to vr)
    you need to connect the other wire that goes to vr to a ground can use many places, easy place is in link above
    then you need to have a wire in the gpu read hole(goes to red dmm probe black to any ground link has easy place)so you can read voltage

    so now you have three wires connected to pbc 1 in ovg 1 to a ground 1 to the read point gpu

    then i just take the vr(you know you just use two terminals you set vr with right)that i set and push the two terminals in the 2 pin connector i made.
    you might want to fit it in nice and tape/putty in place

    so ok i have vr set wires in proper places dmm all set up to read voltage...time to boot.
    so you boot you should see.99ish volts being read on the dmm
    turn vr screw slow(yes while booted) and keep an eye on voltage. stop at 1.10V 2d voltage boot up some bench and see voltage in 3d(should be safe even with stock cooling so its ok)it will be around 1.30ish 3d
    ok your done... its all cooling on how far you want to go.
    if using stock cooler dont go over 1.35v for gaming 1.40 for a bench or two but this is just in genral i dont know if its hell degrees in you cpu room.
    vrm temps i had no issues with but i keep thing very cool


    Oh just read the link all the infos there i dont want to confuse you.
    This mod is better and easier then software if you ask me
    the points to connect to on the pbc is like sewer hole sized from what we have been doing the last 7 years. besides the price of the card, they made it for a nooby
    if i dare say it its perfect for a first time modder.


    if you blow your stuff up sorry but dont rma it
    just dont get greedy with voltage more dont always help
    Last edited by cowie; 07-25-2012 at 11:17 AM.
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    Cowie thanks for the thorough guide! Funny i didnt find the Anandtech vmod thread myself.

    Yes the card has been built with voltage modding in mind and i believe the main reason for bringing out the read and adjust points is so that one can use the stock cooler without all the custom soldered wires interfering withcooler placement - FC waterblock or not.

    Since this is such a badass card it needs to be pushed a bit. Its like a sports car - if one buys it, one must race it
    I have previous voltmod experience with my old 7600GS...cant find the thread right now.

    For cooling i have full-blown watercooling and an EK Supreme HF block on standby.
    Time to get cracking on the voltmod soon. I hope to find some time this week.

  4. #4
    i made the hotwire and works perfect!, and it´s so easy ..even me, cause i never make any v-mod.

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    I just did hotwire for ram since i changed my setup... max ram seems to be 1.69v(+10) no higher is working.
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  6. #6
    Cowie, the problem was no more than +10 option or u can set more than +10 and dont take efect in the Vram ??, i will try in my card and update u later.

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    no i could set more but its stopped at 1.699 it helped get a tad more but not much more on the rams.

    you and muskel post results if you can
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    Hey cowie

    I hotwired my card and run the settings through my bios. I set +25 offset to memory voltage thinking it was a tad bit more voltage from stock. I finally checked tonight what the memory voltage was and it sat at 1.85v. I lowered it to 1.71v(+10) for the time being. Probably a tad more tomorrow and see how it runs.
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    so you got more then 1.70v? 1.85 thats too much i would think for most
    I did not want to "pot shot" voltage after i had up to +18 set and no movement in voltage from the +10 setting.
    I will go over it today and get the setting number=voltage so everyone will have a clue how much is what so no pot shots
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    I got the voltmods done.
    At idle i am at 1.06
    At load i am at 1.27
    I tried doing 1.30, but the VRM temps were 70c so i backed off. @1.27vCore they are at 65c.

    I have a spare EK VGA Supreme and do not want to buy a separate fullcover block, its way overpriced.
    Im thinking of getting a waterblock for the VRMs.
    Maybe get one of these VRM blocks ? The total VRM area is about 9x2 cm.

    The core is about 1316 Mhz, memory 3500 Mhz.

    Pre-voltmod voltages are:

    -- 2D -------------
    Vcore 1.1087
    Vmem 1.6215
    Vpll 1.0658

    -- 3D -------------
    Vcore 1.2180
    Vmem 1.6234
    Vpll 1.0697
    Last edited by muskel; 08-20-2012 at 04:53 AM.
    Intel i7 2500K 4,7Ghz -- ASUS P8Z68 Deluxe -- ASUS GTX680 DirectCUII TOP vmod -- 16GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 -- Corsair Force 3 GT 256GB SSD -- EK Supreme HF CPU+VGA -- Swiftech MCR120+320

  11. #11
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    70c is not near death for those parts,more like get worried at 90c+,i think they are rated over that even.
    keep them under 83c if you can.
    i have taken the stock pos heatsink and used two screws to bolt it on with a few nuts and thumbscrews.
    on the backside of card i have stuck two four inch long half inch wide heatsinks on the vrm area then two fans on each side of card up to 1.45v np.... not used at that voltage 24/7 thuo.
    i have the backplate off do you still have yours on?
    Last edited by cowie; 08-21-2012 at 05:18 AM.
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    Yes i still have the stock cooler and backplate on. I havent installed the waterblock for the core yet.
    Intel i7 2500K 4,7Ghz -- ASUS P8Z68 Deluxe -- ASUS GTX680 DirectCUII TOP vmod -- 16GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 -- Corsair Force 3 GT 256GB SSD -- EK Supreme HF CPU+VGA -- Swiftech MCR120+320

  13. #13
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    ok if its not really too hot in your part of the woods @1.30v it was not any hotter then stock for me so i would think it would be fine for you,till 1.38ish its still
    ok with stock cooling and fan 100%
    The backplate does not touch any parts/metal so it does not cool anything down at all, maybe it even holds heat in.
    but if you do get rid of the bp you need screws to hold the stock vrm hs on,its has the vrm hs holes so its needed to hold it on.
    I have a h70 on one with some custom hs's on vrm area front and back with fans over area.....i take that puppy up to 1.45 np like i said before.
    Once that high you really need the fans on those areas for better cooling if you cant find/make a waterblock for it.

    Just go slow get some cooling and then you can fly like the wind with some voltage
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