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Thread: Silver or PT Nuke?

  1. #1
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    Silver or PT Nuke?

    I'm refreshing my loop, which is in my sig.
    Basically, I've got a loop that includes Copper, Brass, and Chrome for metals, and I've got a fairly large custom res that sees a little bit (but not a ton) of sunlight. After going through the forums, and even asking a couple of times, I'm still not clear on the issue. I want corrosion protection (and I think I'm ok with the metals in my loop), and a biocide. No dyes, just running straight distilled. Silver coil or PT Nuke-PHN Why?
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stealth5325 View Post
    I'm refreshing my loop, which is in my sig.
    Basically, I've got a loop that includes Copper, Brass, and Chrome for metals, and I've got a fairly large custom res that sees a little bit (but not a ton) of sunlight. After going through the forums, and even asking a couple of times, I'm still not clear on the issue. I want corrosion protection (and I think I'm ok with the metals in my loop), and a biocide. No dyes, just running straight distilled. Silver coil or PT Nuke-PHN Why?
    if you dont use compression fittings use BITSPOWER TRUE SILVER barbs and you avoid that, im runing month with tubes like new water clear perfect without biocide using those barbs they have a tiny layer of silver so...

    i got tired of changing tubes due to use biocides, cause the left a layer of copper sulphate sticked inside them

    Of course some ppl will say that BP true silver aint silver but i can say that they do have

    Cheers and good luck
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by andressergio View Post
    if you dont use compression fittings use BITSPOWER TRUE SILVER barbs and you avoid that, im runing month with tubes like new water clear perfect without biocide using those barbs they have a tiny layer of silver so...

    i got tired of changing tubes due to use biocides, cause the left a layer of copper sulphate sticked inside them

    Of course some ppl will say that BP true silver aint silver but i can say that they do have

    Cheers and good luck
    Sergio
    That's honestly a terrible idea. Those true silver fittings are known to flake, the silver plating is extremely thin.


    You'll be fine with either PT Nuke (the PHN stuff, not the blue colored one) or a Silver coil. I've used both without issue for years. Just make sure you follow the concentration directions for PT Nuke.

    The nice thing about Silver over PT Nuke is that it is non-toxic.
    Last edited by earthwormjim; 07-21-2012 at 03:04 PM.

  4. #4
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    Recommend silver coils. I ran silver coils for about 3 yrs with distilled water. No problems and block was clean. Only problem I had was cheap tubing, LOL!
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  5. #5
    Administrator andressergio's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by earthwormjim View Post
    That's honestly a terrible idea. Those true silver fittings are known to flake, the silver plating is extremely thin.


    You'll be fine with either PT Nuke (the PHN stuff, not the blue colored one) or a Silver coil. I've used both without issue for years. Just make sure you follow the concentration directions for PT Nuke.

    The nice thing about Silver over PT Nuke is that it is non-toxic.
    well mate i talk my experience after 8 months of runing them i took the loop cauz i got a new pump and barbs came shining like the first days, not like before using those biocides that all white inside...
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by andressergio View Post
    well mate i talk my experience after 8 months of runing them i took the loop cauz i got a new pump and barbs came shining like the first days, not like before using those biocides that all white inside...
    One issue, flaking, can kill your pump or clog up your CPU block, the other, tubing clouding up, is purely cosmetic.

    A silver coil should give the same positive results you're getting anyway, and no flaking issue.

  7. #7
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    Earthwormjim, could you please give a link to "kill your pump or clog up your CPU block" with Bitspower .999 silver plate? Thanks. I can understand hitting them or scratching them but I was not aware that BP had spontaneous flaking of the "pure silver" model fittings.

    To OP, I have used silver fittings: 2 silver barbs and 2 silver compressions for over 2 years. The first year or less was with a silver coil also but the last year has been only the fittings and recently only compressions. I used the internal surface areas of the of fittings compared to a coil to get an approximation. I've never had any infection. I did read about a guy who had his coil go into his pump and reported a bad pump. But that can be avoided by not placing the coil in line with the pump inlet.

    From what I read and my experience with silver, either PT Nuke or silver will work as a biocide with distilled. I got tired of the coil and wanted to try silver alone because silver alone should work and it seems to so far. I inspect all fittings annually at tear-down. I now use my silver coils to keep the opened gallon bottle of distilled clean and ready for the next fill.

    I have not heard of benzalkonium or the PT Nuke PHN (the clear solution) causing cloudy tubing. There are some who report tubing getting cloudy with copper sulfate, the PT Nuke Cu (the blue solution).
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by musicfan View Post
    Earthwormjim, could you please give a link to "kill your pump or clog up your CPU block" with Bitspower .999 silver plate? Thanks. I can understand hitting them or scratching them but I was not aware that BP had spontaneous flaking of the "pure silver" model fittings.

    To OP, I have used silver fittings: 2 silver barbs and 2 silver compressions for over 2 years. The first year or less was with a silver coil also but the last year has been only the fittings and recently only compressions. I used the internal surface areas of the of fittings compared to a coil to get an approximation. I've never had any infection. I did read about a guy who had his coil go into his pump and reported a bad pump. But that can be avoided by not placing the coil in line with the pump inlet.

    From what I read and my experience with silver, either PT Nuke or silver will work as a biocide with distilled. I got tired of the coil and wanted to try silver alone because silver alone should work and it seems to so far. I inspect all fittings annually at tear-down. I now use my silver coils to keep the opened gallon bottle of distilled clean and ready for the next fill.

    I have not heard of benzalkonium or the PT Nuke PHN (the clear solution) causing cloudy tubing. There are some who report tubing getting cloudy with copper sulfate, the PT Nuke Cu (the blue solution).
    http://www.realredraider.com/vbullet...ad.php?t=59121

    http://forums.overclockers.com.au/sh...d.php?t=960485

    http://forums.overclockers.com.au/sh...4#post13510016

    There was a good thread on overclock.net but I can't seem to find it. Their search engine is pretty lame.

    Flaking can vary in size, it's a potential that it can clog things or kill a pump, not a guarantee when it happens. But why risk it? Plus those fittings cost a lot more than their regular ones.
    Last edited by earthwormjim; 07-21-2012 at 08:09 PM.

  9. #9
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    @earthwormjim, thank you for the links and discussion. The first from RRR starts with great pics. Unfortunately the thread doesn't resolve as to what caused what. The Australian posters are unhappy with Bitspower plating quality. Both Silver-plate and Nickel-plate fittings flake or chip. There are concerns about using silver, whether coil or fitting.

    Google has a site operator, site:xtremesystems.org [search query] that allows a Google search of a site. I did that at OCN with [BP or Bitspower silver fitting flaking] and the same without the [silver] in the query. What I found were plating concerns. Silver did not seem worse than Nickel but some posts included new fittings. What was reinforced in me today was that regardless of a silver coil, all fittings are fragile and need inspection upon arrival and regularly.

    @OP, thank you for the thread.
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  10. #10
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    2+ years with just distilled water and silver and still 100% clean

  11. #11
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    Good wisdom from everyone, thank you.
    Silver seems to be the consensus, and I was running a silver coil before as well, no growth. Looks like I'll do the same again.
    Iwaki MD-20RZT
    Alphacooling Nexxxos UT60 with 6X Panaflo L1A's at 7v
    Dangerden MC-TDX with brass top.
    Koolance VID-NX680 nickle/acetal with Bitspower Chrome compressions.
    Koolance VL3N chrome quick disconnects on PCI backplate. (Yes, they leak)
    Custom extremely expensive super complex Tupperware res.
    Dangerden Fatboy fittings and Bitspower chrome compressions.
    About 5 feet of Tygon R3603 tubing.
    All built in a custom external wooden radbox, black.
    The computer changes all the time.

  12. #12
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    Just tored down my loop recently and noticed the plating on the bitspower chrome barbs starting coming off at the tip. Been using silver coil for the last two years. Read on the Koolance site that supposedly its a bad idea to use silver with chrome plated stuff in the loop. I dunno. Just had me wondering.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by situman View Post
    Just tored down my loop recently and noticed the plating on the bitspower chrome barbs starting coming off at the tip. Been using silver coil for the last two years. Read on the Koolance site that supposedly its a bad idea to use silver with chrome plated stuff in the loop. I dunno. Just had me wondering.
    Every fitting I've had has had the nickel plating come off in spots, silver in the loop or not. It isn't a silver issue, it is the plating itself. Frankly I would be just as happy if the barbs had no plating at all. Give me the raw brass, less issues.
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparky View Post
    Every fitting I've had has had the nickel plating come off in spots, silver in the loop or not. It isn't a silver issue, it is the plating itself. Frankly I would be just as happy if the barbs had no plating at all. Give me the raw brass, less issues.
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    Too bad they're out of stock.

  15. #15
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    Oooh, I like that plan. Anything to remove another metal in my loop. Quick, someone find more...
    Iwaki MD-20RZT
    Alphacooling Nexxxos UT60 with 6X Panaflo L1A's at 7v
    Dangerden MC-TDX with brass top.
    Koolance VID-NX680 nickle/acetal with Bitspower Chrome compressions.
    Koolance VL3N chrome quick disconnects on PCI backplate. (Yes, they leak)
    Custom extremely expensive super complex Tupperware res.
    Dangerden Fatboy fittings and Bitspower chrome compressions.
    About 5 feet of Tygon R3603 tubing.
    All built in a custom external wooden radbox, black.
    The computer changes all the time.

  16. #16
    Xtremely High Voltage Sparky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by earthwormjim View Post
    Compressions, too expensive for me Actually I was thinking I might see if there is an easy way to strip the nickel off the barbs I already have.
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  17. #17
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    Nope, but I found stainless steel barbs out there... I've got hard chrome plated push-fits for my latest toy, and these are for industrial work-solvents and such. Much nicer than LC fittings. Nice enough I don't think I plan to go back.

  18. #18
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    But, you didn't provide any information... How are we supposed to be jealous and then pay exhorbitant rates for them?
    Iwaki MD-20RZT
    Alphacooling Nexxxos UT60 with 6X Panaflo L1A's at 7v
    Dangerden MC-TDX with brass top.
    Koolance VID-NX680 nickle/acetal with Bitspower Chrome compressions.
    Koolance VL3N chrome quick disconnects on PCI backplate. (Yes, they leak)
    Custom extremely expensive super complex Tupperware res.
    Dangerden Fatboy fittings and Bitspower chrome compressions.
    About 5 feet of Tygon R3603 tubing.
    All built in a custom external wooden radbox, black.
    The computer changes all the time.

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