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Thread: It's been 6 years.... what's new in tubing and fittings?

  1. #1
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    Cool It's been 6 years.... what's new in tubing and fittings?

    With the help of this forum, my first ever WC build lasted 6 years at a 50% oc, nearly 24/7!! Thanks for all of the help on that one! (Striker Extreme 680i, E6600 2.4Ghz @ 3.6Ghz, MCR320, D-tek fusion, D5 variable pump).

    It worked a little TOO well I guess.... because now I'm completely out of the loop. :-p The motherboard finally died, and the time has come again for a complete build.

    Going for a 2011 build this time. Any advice on what's new with tubing sizes and types? How about fittings? Plastic and metal barbs were the majority back then, and tygon vs. masterkleer... .7/16" ??


    Parts list so far:
    D5 (old... replace??)
    Corsair Vengeance C70 case
    MCR220-XP (x2) radiators
    EK Spin Res v2

    Thanks!!!!

  2. #2
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    I used 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD, and monsoon/bitspower fittings are really nice. also for whats new look at the koolance QDC's (quick disconnects). I cant imagine them being around 6 yrs ago

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    D5 rocks keep it till it dies

    my bitspowers look nice and work well those monsooon looks pretty sweet too.

    I used to use tygon but changed to PrimoChill PrimoFlex
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  4. #4
    I am Xtreme zanzabar's Avatar
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    i like primoflex pro tubing, and i would go 3/8 5/8. if you go barbs they are all about $3 each so i would stick with stock for the blocks and get bits power for whatever needs them.

    what rpm fan are you going to use, im not 100% but dosnt the xp only work well with over 1500rpm then its about the same as the normal swiftec, and if you want a rad for higher rpm i have had good luck with the black ice extreme.


    is there a reason that you need a new case, if you have a nice one already you will have more than enough cooling capacity with the 3 fan and if you get a gpu and really like overclocking then adding a single 120mmin there should be exultant. and if you are going for 1 or 2 gpus the 1155 is better than the 2011 in just about every way, the only advantage that the 2011 has is that it dose 8 ram slots but then that is way to much ram.
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  5. #5
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    The only advice I can give is to check out the PrimoChill PrimoFlex LRT tubing. Tygon and masterklear are a thing of the past for me, LRT stand for low radius turning/tubing and it does not kink very easily. It also stays CLEAR which is what I like because I only use clear tubing. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/76...l_-_Black.html
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  6. #6
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    I just redid my loop for the first time in 4 years the only things that caught my eye from then to now are Monsoon fittings (which I bought quite a few of) and the newest ddc variant from switech that includes vrm conrol Mcp35x (I stuck with my DDC 3.2 petra's top combo). Only other thing of note in that time is the proliferation and debate on using silver in place of traditional biocides. Of course there a slew of newer cpu blocks but if yours is still trucking ( and you don't hate the mounting system yet) then you aren't missing much.

    Primoflex LRT today is not what it was when it first came out. There is quite a large thread floating around OCN trying to track down the problem http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...sticizer-leach. People that have both old and new stock have confirmed a greatly accelerated rate of clouding and leeching in the newer batches.
    Last edited by ryan92084; 07-03-2012 at 09:01 AM.

  7. #7
    Administrator andressergio's Avatar
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    my move was from tygon clear that always after a month turns blur for the plasticizer to Masterkleer UV blue, and form normal barbs to Bitspower true silver, then i swaped my D5 for a MX355 pump and im really happy with perfomance, i also changed my 3 fan rad to a 4 fan rad XPSC RX again very happy with all
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    The D5 has native 1/2" barbs and there are D5 tops now that allow your choice of G1/4" fittings. The 1/2" ID & 3/4" OD and 3/8" ID & 5/8" OD tubing still gets best choices in compressions (and quick disconnects) but you mentioned Masterkleer, which is only is 7/16" ID & 5/8" OD. There are now compression fittings from Bitspower for the 7/16" ID & 5/8" OD. If you like Masterkleer or that size tubing like I do, you can run a mix of 1/2" barbs along with the newer 7/16" & 5/8" newer compressions so you don't have to buy all your new compressions at once. Have fun.
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  9. #9
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    Thanks for all of the advice! These compression fittings make me nervous. Are they as secure as a good ole' barb with a worm clamp on it? Are they really worth the added cost, for example, the Monsoon type? They definitely look a lot cleaner and nicer.... but are they easier to work with when removing and swapping parts around?


    Looking at maybe the PrimoFlex non-clear (white or black) 1/2 ID x 3/4 OD, and either barbs or compression at this point.



    Zanzabar:
    (Fans are 2350rpm, 63cfm Corsair SP120's. Figured I'd give 'em a try. Still weighing the 1155 vs 2011 thing... just had to get the new case / loop underway though. Couldn't wait!)

  10. #10
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    I saw a post on here that made compression fittings sound like the best thing that's come to the water cooling scene since water pumps.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZeroOne View Post
    Are they as secure as a good ole' barb with a worm clamp on it? Are they really worth the added cost, for example, the Monsoon type? They definitely look a lot cleaner and nicer.... but are they easier to work with when removing and swapping parts around?

    Looking at maybe the PrimoFlex non-clear (white or black) 1/2 ID x 3/4 OD, and either barbs or compression at this point.
    I use 1/2" barbs with worm-drive clamps mixed with compressions. Compressions will never be as secure as 7/16" ID on 1/2" barbs with a worm clamp. Whether compressions are worth it is in eye of the beholder because many prefer the aesthetic appeal of compressions over barbs with worm-drives. I find it easier to remove and work with 7/16" ID & 5/8" tubing with exact size compressions compared to 7/16" ID & 5/8" tubing clamped on 1/2" barbs.

    When I used 1/2" ID & 3/4" OD tubing on 1/2" barbs with worm-drive clamps, I thought it went on and off the barbs easily. I never used compressions on 1/2" ID tubing so can't comment there. My last leak during a leak test was a worn O-ring on a barb so either barbs or compressions can leak or be secure. Get what appeals to you and your budget. Good luck.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by thegoatman View Post
    I saw a post on here that made compression fittings sound like the best thing that's come to the water cooling scene since water pumps.
    No they are the best thing to come to water cooling since sliced water bread.

    I got them on 1/2" ID tubs and they have been great for years. I got 22+ fittings and no problems.

  13. #13
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    I've had my 7/16th on 1/2" fittings with no clamps or anything for about 4yrs now and it looks just as it did the day i put it together... only had to add coolant twice in 3yrs or more... i've got 16 connections in my box with bitspower silver fatboy 1/2" barbs
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