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Thread: 3770k IHS Removals - CPU temp dropped from 79C to 71C

  1. #126
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    This from a bit earlier in the thread looks plenty safe to me.

    http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=1#post5102202

    To make it even more safe I suggest you improve on the mounting to make sure that the block itself cannot move much after mount with rubber and metal spacers.
    However that is with water-cooling, with a heavy air cooler it will require that you do the same as above, but even more carefully.
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  2. #127
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    Yeah. I need some spacers/shims though. Does anyone know what size the spacers need to be?
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  3. #128
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    That is very hard to tell without knowing what you are intending too cool it with and what kind of backplate you have available.

    This guy is doing it, he hasn't updated the thread yet though:
    http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=...1&postcount=66
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  4. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by McDown View Post
    It looks like you are using old linpack libraries.
    It is obvious I am not. I get 128 GFlops with 4 threads. I just downloaded the lastest Linx this weekend. Please stop making accusations.

    http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...7&d=1338744602
    Last edited by babalouj; 06-04-2012 at 09:11 AM.
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  5. #130
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    I am at 4.7ghz (100x47) ( gives me 9.38 in cinebench) the temps when running prime95 with max heat option are 74c, 79c, 79c, 75c (room temp is 31c).

    If I remove the lid from the cpu and just replace the paste and put it back on will i for sure get a 10c or so drop in temps? the idle temps are pretty warm about (38, 36,39, 37)

    When we turn AC on in the house they drop to about 31-32ish though.

    Im using a XSPC Raystorm RX360 Extreme.

    I also am using MX-4 paste.. I do have a question though.. i was testing the loop with the plastic cover over the heatsink and i noticed when i removed that plastic cover
    it marked the heatsink surface with a dark smudge look.. i used articleaner 1 & 2 to clean it up but could that surface effect temps or no?

    Also its my first loop, so i have one more noob question: the part that says "IN" on the block you want the water to flow into that right? if so i have that setup right. I have
    the radiator going right into that. Im also using gentle typhoons on the rad (3)

  6. #131
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    Nothing is 'for sure', but you can expect 5-10c.
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  7. #132
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    i just did it and its very easy to do with a new razorblade.. i used mx4 though and covered the processor and put the ihs back on and my temps are hotter now under load.. i think i used to much paste tho on the ihs so ill remount and report back.

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  8. #133
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    guys after you remove and put the right paste how you stick back the HS ?

    sorry the noob question

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  9. #134
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    my temps are worse by about 10c now.. is mx4 that bad? how are you guys applying the paste direct to the processor? the first time i just covered it around a lot.. this time i used a very thin layer with spreading and my temps suck for both times.. using pea method on the ihs itself..

    Andressergo im just placing the IHS right back over and making sure it aligns when you clamp it down to the socket on the mobo.. its that simple..

    one thing i didnt do was remove the black crap from when the IHS was sealed to the pcb.. could i possibly not be getting a good enough contact since i didnt remove the black epoxy?
    Last edited by tscompusa; 06-14-2012 at 04:56 PM.

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  10. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by tscompusa View Post
    one thing i didnt do was remove the black crap from when the IHS was sealed to the pcb.. could i possibly not be getting a good enough contact since i didnt remove the black epoxy?
    This is exactly the problem, my temps did not improve until I removed all the black stuff, it was preventing the IHS from making good contact with the cpu.
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  11. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by babalouj View Post
    This is exactly the problem, my temps did not improve until I removed all the black stuff, it was preventing the IHS from making good contact with the cpu.
    and how u glued back mate ?
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  12. #137
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    ^ Dont have to, just hold it in place and let hold down mechanism do the rest
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  13. #138
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    ok i just removed all the black epoxy crap and loaded alot of mx4 on the cpu direct and put the IHS back on added the pea drop and mounted my water block.. wow!!!!!!!! temps are WAY better. It just dropped 15c.

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  14. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by babalouj View Post
    This is exactly the problem, my temps did not improve until I removed all the black stuff, it was preventing the IHS from making good contact with the cpu.
    How much paste did you use on the cpu direct? this time i added a lot.. like a mess.. does it matter how much is put on the cpu directly?

    I removed all the black epoxy / glue and my temps went 15c cooler now vs what htey were just a bit ago.. still not seeing the temps you are though.

    at 4.7ghz running prime95 in small FFT's im seeing 71 79 81 82

    what paste are you using and what paste do you recommend? I have a feeling this mx4 is garbage?

    EDIT: also its 33c in my room right now..lol id like to go with better paste if its available.. liquid pro or something?

    also i notice you got 7 AP-15's? are you using push pull on your rad? right now i have 3 AP-15's in push mode only.
    I guess that's why your temps are so badass.
    Last edited by tscompusa; 06-14-2012 at 06:56 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by itznfb View Post
    Yeah. I need some spacers/shims though. Does anyone know what size the spacers need to be?
    well for my water block for example.. it has plastic washers that go inbetween the bracket and springs.. all you have to really do is load up more plastic
    washers. stack enough to get a good preload and add some thin rubber where the retention bracket touches the pcb and that should do it.. but if there
    isnt atleast a 5c drop in temp i think its pointless.. but i imagine there is going to be atleast a 5c drop since just in general the pcb/ cpu will be breathing
    better and wont be enclosed in that heat spreader + more direct contact to the cooler.. id imagine atleast 5c drop or more.

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  16. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by Splave View Post
    ^ Dont have to, just hold it in place and let hold down mechanism do the rest
    no glue ?
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    Quote Originally Posted by andressergio View Post
    no glue ?
    You dont need any glue. Just make sure you scrape the remainder black epoxy stuff off both the pcb (green board) and the IHS itself and then apply your paste on the cpu then lay the pcb/cpu in your motherboard..
    use the part where the notch is on the pcb to know its aligned in there properly.. just gently lay it in and it will set itself in place..

    then lay the shell (IHS) on top of the pcb and while holding the IHS to make sure it doesnt slide as you latch the retention bracket down lock it into place.. you want to use the old markings that were on the pcb to
    know you have the IHS where it should be.. its really easy! i just did it 4 times now screwing with the paste the way i apply it..

    like the other guy mentioned, just make sure all the black stuff is off or you'll be wasting your time like i was.. my temps did not get any better until i removed that black stuff.

    Its really easy to do this mod im actually very surprised.. if you buy a brand new razorblade at the store you can literally get it off in 5min. id say difficulty level is 3 / 10.

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  18. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by tscompusa View Post
    How much paste did you use on the cpu direct? this time i added a lot.. like a mess.. does it matter how much is put on the cpu directly?

    I removed all the black epoxy / glue and my temps went 15c cooler now vs what htey were just a bit ago.. still not seeing the temps you are though.

    at 4.7ghz running prime95 in small FFT's im seeing 71 79 81 82

    what paste are you using and what paste do you recommend? I have a feeling this mx4 is garbage?

    EDIT: also its 33c in my room right now..lol id like to go with better paste if its available.. liquid pro or something?

    also i notice you got 7 AP-15's? are you using push pull on your rad? right now i have 3 AP-15's in push mode only.
    I guess that's why your temps are so badass.
    I used a small amount of coollabratory liquid ultra (a thin layer on the cpu die) between the IHS and the cpu die. I used PK-1 between my waterblock and the IHS.

    My water loop is a quad and a triple radiator in series with 7 ap-15s in pull configuration with a dual mcp355 setup. It's a little excessive but it gives exceptional temps on the cpu and gpu. Also, my room temperature is ~23C.
    Last edited by babalouj; 06-14-2012 at 10:02 PM.
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  19. #144
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    Would using a heat gun to maybe loosen the adhesive black gunk harm the cpu?
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  20. #145
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    Its not really an adhesive, its more of a silicone (if I had to guess). Heating it up will not help pop the top, once the lid is off the stuff is easy to scrap off though.
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  21. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by babalouj View Post
    I used a small amount of coollabratory liquid ultra (a thin layer on the cpu die) between the IHS and the cpu die. I used PK-1 between my waterblock and the IHS.

    My water loop is a quad and a triple radiator in series with 7 ap-15s in pull configuration with a dual mcp355 setup. It's a little excessive but it gives exceptional temps on the cpu and gpu. Also, my room temperature is ~23C.
    wow your setup sounds pretty crazy lol.

    i just loop my cpu for now. its my first time using water and so far its really nice. way better then air.

    i am going to change the mx-4 for the liquid pro since it has a much higher thermal conductivity and will more so act like solder in between
    the IHS and processor die. then ill get the same paste you mentioned since it seems to be the best among the rest. (the PK-1)

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  22. #147
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    PK-1 has been the best thermal paste I have ever used in ease of use and performance. Much much better than MX-4. MX-3 comes close to PK-1 in my experiences though.
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  23. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by tscompusa View Post
    You dont need any glue. Just make sure you scrape the remainder black epoxy stuff off both the pcb (green board) and the IHS itself and then apply your paste on the cpu then lay the pcb/cpu in your motherboard..
    use the part where the notch is on the pcb to know its aligned in there properly.. just gently lay it in and it will set itself in place..

    then lay the shell (IHS) on top of the pcb and while holding the IHS to make sure it doesnt slide as you latch the retention bracket down lock it into place.. you want to use the old markings that were on the pcb to
    know you have the IHS where it should be.. its really easy! i just did it 4 times now screwing with the paste the way i apply it..

    like the other guy mentioned, just make sure all the black stuff is off or you'll be wasting your time like i was.. my temps did not get any better until i removed that black stuff.

    Its really easy to do this mod im actually very surprised.. if you buy a brand new razorblade at the store you can literally get it off in 5min. id say difficulty level is 3 / 10.
    thanks a lot for your explanation same to you splave !
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  24. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by babalouj View Post
    PK-1 has been the best thermal paste I have ever used in ease of use and performance. Much much better than MX-4. MX-3 comes close to PK-1 in my experiences though.
    Nice. Looking forward to seeing how it responds on my setup. Am i right in thinking that the Liquid pro inbetween the heat spreader and the cpu die is going to be way better temps then the mx-4 due to the thermal conductivity that this liquid stuff has? It seems like its as close to solder as you can get without actually soldering.

    Quote Originally Posted by andressergio View Post
    thanks a lot for your explanation same to you splave !
    No problem. Glad i could help!

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  25. #150
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    Btw guys I did some tests with the EK Supreme-HF using direct die cooling you can see them here.

    1.36v ,4.8Ghz ~60ºC runing prime.

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