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Thread: 3770k IHS Removals - CPU temp dropped from 79C to 71C

  1. #401
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    I've sent two emails to Coollaboratory and they haven't answered (do they ever answer customer/support queries?). In any case, I wanted to find out from them whether the Pro or the Ultra need to be re-applied after a while and if yes, how much is "a while"? Anyone can confirm?

    I love fiddling with stuff (already removed the IHS and played with the Ultra) but am not looking forward to doing it on a constant basis or risking my CPU overheating to death because the TIM went.

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    Xtreme Addict tool_462's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xero99 View Post
    Ok I just finished a 22 hour Prime95 marathon @ 5.0Ghz!!

    Max temp in Asus Suite 46c
    Max temp in RealTemp 81c
    Ambient temp 32c

    All on Water!!!
    I have now modded 8 chips for various friends (do at your own risk!!!) and ill just post the worse of those numbers.

    Chip #6 (Costa Rica) @ 4.8Ghz
    Max temp in Gigabyte 61c
    Max temp in RealTemp 92c
    Ambient unknown


    Now for on my chip 5.1Ghz!

    Again thanks to all posters on this thread!!!! Your Xtreme-ness makes me giddy!!!

    Which TIM setup did you choose and what razor method? Ordered some Liquid Ultra the other day and plan on hacking up 3 friend's chips and putting the Ultra on mine too (currently was Shin Etsu x23 on both spots)
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    Registered User Xero99's Avatar
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    I used the Liquid Pro. I put it on four places total: The CPU die, The inside of the IHS where it contacts the die, The top of the IHS which contacts the cooling block and lastly on the bottom of the cooling block.

    I used a double edge razor to start the cuts and a single edge razor to finish which ensureed that I didn't damage the chip (double can be uses but be careful as it is flexible. It must be kept as straight as possible).

    I also found it to be easier and faster to start with the corners first. All four corners then the sides. I pushed the razor in ward as oppose to slicing with the edge of the blade. The first one will obviously take the longest as you want to take it slow and easy. But once you actually see the first one removed you will understand why this is an easy process that shouldn't take longer than 5 minutes.

    I literally takes longer to apply the tim than it does to remove the IHS.

    Hope this helps, I'm off to work but will respond to any questions tonight.

    Good Luck, The mod is completely worth it.
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    just wondering if Intel have put crappy tim on these cpu's so hard core oc'ers have to permanently void there warranty by removing the ihs
    i really want to remove my ihs but after paying £280 for it really cant afford to replace it im only at 4.2ghz ibt load is 85c not really happy with temps but its fast enough for me and i know it wont hit that temp under normal use
    (and yes i have tried lowering the v-core in only at 170 bios)
    congrats on the ihs removal
    Last edited by rubber5; 09-04-2012 at 07:25 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mastabog View Post
    I've sent two emails to Coollaboratory and they haven't answered (do they ever answer customer/support queries?). In any case, I wanted to find out from them whether the Pro or the Ultra need to be re-applied after a while and if yes, how much is "a while"? Anyone can confirm?

    I love fiddling with stuff (already removed the IHS and played with the Ultra) but am not looking forward to doing it on a constant basis or risking my CPU overheating to death because the TIM went.
    From previous posts from folks that used Liquid Pro, it seems that you don't have to re-apply it. Unlike pastes or greases that may chemically change with age, Liquid Pro is a metal and once it has "set up" after a few days, it is inert. I have only been using it about 4 weeks but mine hasn't changed yet.
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  6. #406
    Xtreme Member Zaxis01's Avatar
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    I finally built up enough nerve to delid my i7 3770k and applied coolaboratory liquid pro between the die and ihs. And ic diamond between the waterblock and cpu.

    With an overclock @ 4.5ghz @ 1.2vcore I'm idling at 15c and under intel burn test loading in the 30's.
    Under the hood:
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  7. #407
    Xtreme Cruncher Conquistador SW's Avatar
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    Sounds great Zaxis!
    However, could you verify those temperatures with Realtemp, because idling at 15C is only possible if it actually freezing in your room.

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  8. #408
    Xtreme Member Zaxis01's Avatar
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    Can i verify with easytune6 cause realtemp is giving inaccurate temp reads from what my BIOS is reading.

    And Easytune seems to be more accurate.

    And Btw It is freezing in my room atm.
    Under the hood:
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  9. #409
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    With freezing I actually mean <0C. If it is cold in your room (~15C) I would expect ~30C idle temperatures and at least 50C under load. The temperatures you gave are impossible unless it is 0C in your room or you are using a high power TEC or something.
    What is Realtemp saying and what is your room temperature?

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  10. #410
    Xtreme Member Zaxis01's Avatar
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    Room Temp is 21c and i'm using a high flow watercooling system.

    RT is reading low to mid 30's idle and mid 40's load.

    But BIOS reads 18-20 idle.
    Under the hood:
    Motherboard - MSI Big Bang Xpower
    CPU - Intel Core I7 970 3.2 @ 4.4ghz/w 1.28vcore
    Cooler- Intel Stock Heatsink
    RAM - Gskill Trident 3x2gb @ 2100 cl9
    GPU -2x Nvidia GTX 580 SLI
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  11. #411
    Xtreme Cruncher Conquistador SW's Avatar
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    Ok, those Realtemp temperatures are most likely accurate. I hope you understand that if your room is 21C, your CPU can never be 18-20C, so your BIOS is wrong. Even if it is measuring something else (maybe CPU package temperature or whatever it is called) it is still impossible that it measuring temperatures under your room temperature.

    Either way, the Realtemp temperatures you see are still very very good. Enjoy the speed!

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  12. #412
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    Someone tried the CPU under cold after TIM replacement? With Liquit Ultra Pro for example.. I`m curious..
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    Xtreme Member Zaxis01's Avatar
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    Thanks for the feedback.

    Do you know why my idle temps might be so high?

    They seemed to have jumped after flashing bios to a new version.
    Under the hood:
    Motherboard - MSI Big Bang Xpower
    CPU - Intel Core I7 970 3.2 @ 4.4ghz/w 1.28vcore
    Cooler- Intel Stock Heatsink
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    I am Xtreme zalbard's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by M3kk View Post
    Someone tried the CPU under cold after TIM replacement? With Liquit Ultra Pro for example.. I`m curious..
    http://hwbot.org/forum/showthread.php?t=47539
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    Xtreme Cruncher Conquistador SW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zaxis01 View Post
    Thanks for the feedback.

    Do you know why my idle temps might be so high?

    They seemed to have jumped after flashing bios to a new version.
    I don't know why they would change after a bios update, but they are not high at all. They are only 10-15C above your room temperature which is very respectable. Also, idle temps are meaningless and the sensors are not very accurate at such low temperatures. I don't even know what the idle temps of all my chips are because I don't care what they are haha.

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    Xtreme Mentor stasio's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zaxis01 View Post
    Can i verify with easytune6 cause realtemp is giving inaccurate temp reads from what my BIOS is reading.

    And Easytune seems to be more accurate.

    And Btw It is freezing in my room atm.
    realtemp,hwinfo.aida64 read accurate Core temp.
    ET6 read only CPU temp,which is ussually lower.
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    Xtreme Member fgw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zaxis01 View Post
    Room Temp is 21c and i'm using a high flow watercooling system.

    RT is reading low to mid 30's idle and mid 40's load.

    But BIOS reads 18-20 idle.
    as somebody already pointed out: its simply impossible to achieve temperatures below ambient!

    bios temps are reported most times by reading the voltage from a thermal diode. its up to the bios software to convert this voltage into a proper temperature. thats the reason you see different temperatures with different bios versions. the algorithm used in converting the voltage into a temperature might be changed from bios version to bios version.

    realtemp, coretemp, aida and similar software gets their temperature readings by reading intels digital thermal sensors (dts) which are located on the die within each core. this sensors directly report temperatures thus their readings don't need to be converted from voltage into temperature. but there is still a minor calculation to be performed on the temperature reading from this dts sensors. the sensors wont report absolute temperature but they report the distance to tjmax instead. in order to convert the dts value into an absolute temperature the reading needs to be substracted from tjmax.
    unfortunately intel is not specifying this tjmax value for all processors. so its up to the software developer to "assume" a tjmax value to perform this calculations. as various software might use slightly different values for tjmax, the temp readings might differ slightly.

    anyway, using a software which derives temperatures from intel dts sensors is the most accurate way to get cpu temperatures. its far more realistic than the readings from thermal diodes most bios displays.

    to make all this even worse, dts sensors are not working very well at lower temperatures. intel designed this sensors to be accurate near tjmax. readings from this sensors might be off during idle but should be more accurate at higher (load) temps. this varies from processor to processor.

    there is no way to get accurate temperatures from your processor. no matter what method or software is used, its almost ever wrong by some degree. there is only the question how far off the readings are ...

    the point here is: your bios readings of 20c is definitely wrong if your ambient is somewhere near 20c! you can safely rely on the temps reported by realtemp which are about 10c above ambient during idle thus more likely to be close to reality.
    Last edited by fgw; 09-08-2012 at 02:59 PM.
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    Xtreme Mentor stasio's Avatar
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    On GB Z77 board's, CPU temp in BIOS (and ET6),read lower with purpose.
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    Xtreme Member Zaxis01's Avatar
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    Thanks for clarifying all this for me. I'm not too familiar with the accuracy of cpu temp sensors and how to read them.

    But, i kinda understand the basic fundamentals of how it should perform based on voltage and frequency settings.

    So pretty much the temperature is gauged by the ambient temp + wattage + thermal resistance?
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    I see a lot of people saying they are using liquid ultra pro. I just ordered some shin etsu (for my gpu), should I switch that out and use liquid ultra pro instead?

    Was planning on getting indigo extreme for the cpu but I guess I could also just get a pack for my gpu/cpu with that stuff if it is any good.


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    Quote Originally Posted by fgw View Post
    ... so its up to the software developer to "assume" a tjmax value to perform this calculations. as various software might use slightly different values for tjmax, the temp readings might differ slightly.
    This was only true during the Core 2 era. When Intel introduced the Core i processors in 2008, they started writing the TJ Max value directly to each core of each CPU so all monitoring software can read the correct value from the CPU.

    Intel's core temperature sensors are only intended to be used for thermal throttling and thermal shut down control. They were never intended to be 100% accurate, especially when the core temperature is a long ways away from 100C. Updating the bios should never change what RealTemp reports but it might change the readings from the CPU sensor that some software reports. The Ivy Bridge core temperature sensors seem to be reasonably accurate.
    Last edited by unclewebb; 09-09-2012 at 06:11 PM.

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    I just chopped the IHS off my 3770K with a stationary cutter, replaced the stock TIM with some PK-1 and the temp dropped about 9-10C

    Have to say though, it's not as easy as people make it out to be, took me maybe 30 mins or so. Maybe I just wasn't brave enough? The two sides were especially tricky as the glue is thickest there.

    Also at one point the blade accidentally clipped a corner of the die when it suddenly cut through the black seal. The die seemed intact even though a tiny piece of what looks like shiny coating came off

    My heart sunk. Just when I thought I'd give it one last try to confirm that it's dead, amazingly it still booted, doesn't seemed to have affected the cpu in any way. Am testing at 4.5Ghz at the moment with temp averaging around 71C when running prime95 AVX.

    I've been reading this thread from page 1. I rarely log in to this forum but I thought I should still share my experience, as many have done in this thread.

    Take extreme care when removing IHS, I'm very lucky to still have a working CPU!
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    Question is: What I win if i quit IHS...yes i know droop temp but in performance can i expect more OC? or less vcore? someone can tell the true about IHS removal and what i win in performance
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    Quote Originally Posted by hersounds View Post
    Question is: What I win if i quit IHS...yes i know droop temp but in performance can i expect more OC? or less vcore? someone can tell the true about IHS removal and what i win in performance
    yes my friend 10 to 12C would make OC better, i removed mine and u notice 12C less, u know over 4.8HT you will see the dif specially on 3770K just to it with care dont scratch the die, use a good cutter (trincheta) start on the corners once blade enters a bit go moving around repeat till its out then u take the black stuff with a card or your fingernails clean with alcohol isopropilico clean all change paste and ready to rock'n'roll

    cheers !!!
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve258 View Post
    I just chopped the IHS off my 3770K with a stationary cutter, replaced the stock TIM with some PK-1 and the temp dropped about 9-10C

    Have to say though, it's not as easy as people make it out to be, took me maybe 30 mins or so. Maybe I just wasn't brave enough? The two sides were especially tricky as the glue is thickest there.

    Also at one point the blade accidentally clipped a corner of the die when it suddenly cut through the black seal. The die seemed intact even though a tiny piece of what looks like shiny coating came off

    My heart sunk. Just when I thought I'd give it one last try to confirm that it's dead, amazingly it still booted, doesn't seemed to have affected the cpu in any way. Am testing at 4.5Ghz at the moment with temp averaging around 71C when running prime95 AVX.

    I've been reading this thread from page 1. I rarely log in to this forum but I thought I should still share my experience, as many have done in this thread.

    Take extreme care when removing IHS, I'm very lucky to still have a working CPU!
    steve you know i did to many chips now and to my friends also, some chips are very easy i must say 5 mins and IHS off, and some OMG !!! like my 3770K was very hard thats why i warn to go slow if it dont come easy, i cutted my finger trying to get it out, but u can scratch the die also
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