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Thread: 3930K - Are these temps acceptable?

  1. #1
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    3930K - Are these temps acceptable?

    Hi guys

    I think I should state from the outset that I will probably not overclock my i7 3930K by much at all and I certainly haven't done so yet - the following temps are therefore at the default clock speed of 3.2GHz. SpeedStep is active so it obviously goes lower when possible.

    I recently (in the last week) took delivery of a new system (I shalln't say who from):

    Case: Fractal Design R3
    M/Board: ASUS PX79Pro
    CPU: i7 3930K
    CPU Cooler: Arctic Cooling Freezer i30
    RAM: 8GB Corsair Vengeance Blue DDR3 (running at 1333MHz)
    PSU: Corsair GS700 watts
    GPU: 2GB MSI GTX 680
    x3 SSDs and x1 HDD
    Windows Home Premium 64

    I suspect the case isn't quite right for the system (bigger would have been better and I may yet send the system to another builder to install it into a big case) BUT I really don't think that's the issue here. Under load the CPU is regularly going up to max temp on the last 3 cores (91C) which to me doesn't seem right. The motherboard isn't getting really hot (around 38C under load) so the case would seem to be adequate.

    I've included three screenshots of RealTempGT temperatures:

    1. Not under Stress 2. shortly after 3DMark Vantage test
    3. during Prime95 (the RealTempGT window displayedHot at various intervals against each of cores 3, 4 and 5)

    RealTemp_NoStress_230412.jpgRealTemp_After3DMarkVantage_170412.jpgRealTemp_DuringPrime95.jpg

    I have had a couple of BSoDs but I was so busy scrabbling about trying to get my camera phone to take a quick pic I missed what it said! Also, one occasion (whilst I was gaming), the computer just shut off without warning. The main power-on button didn't work so I waited half an hour and flipped the PSU switch off and then on again.

    I did raise my concerns with the system builder and they said don't worry about it as the system will shut down automatically if it gets too hot but I must admit that rather annoyed me. I'm concerned that the CPU is not seated correctly to ensure adequate heat dissipation and that allowing the CPU to get so hot will damage it over time and shorten its useful life. Am I being unreasonable do you think? Please be honest!

    Btw, I would like to run the memory at its designated 1600MHz but I'm rather wary of doing this too in case that puts the final nail in my CPU's coffin.

    Any observations or thoughts?

  2. #2
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    observation: "shalln't" is first time encounter lol.

    need more intake fans...cpu seems like its choking from not enough cool air


  3. #3
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    I think the protective label of the CPU cooler isn't removed before installing, or no thermal grease is applied. Sounds ridiculous, but sometimes happens to me when I quickly build my rig and forget the 'details'.

    You can easily check this by cold-booting and watching the temperature rise continually, or throw a burn-in test on it. Another (easy) check is by taking off the heatsink.

    Another question: What are your GPU temperatures? If those are within bounds, the system should be appropriately cooled, which I think the R3 is. I've had an R2 and they're fine cases, running stock you should have no problems at all.

    Setting your RAM to its typical speed shouldn't be a problem; but first sort out your temperature problem.
    Last edited by Allubz; 04-23-2012 at 06:32 AM.
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  4. #4
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    Thanks for the quick replies.

    I've just had a very quick play of Skyrim and here are the results with AIDA64:

    Aida64_Skyrim_230412.jpg

    I presume the AUX reading is from a sensor near either the processor or the GPU.

    The GPU is getting pretty hot too but I kind of expect that. Am I right in not being too concerned by the GPU figure?

    I shall open up the case and have a look but I'm loathe to start tinkering with the CPU cooler as I don't have any thermal paste and I've never done anything like this before...scary! I'm just used to adding memory, changing graphics cards and the like.

  5. #5
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    Have you verified that the fan on the CPU cooler is spinning ? If so, then there is something way wrong with the cpu cooler installation. As some have said, improperly seated, plastic filmstrip not removed, or no thermal paste (and possibly loose ?). I ran my 3930K with the stock intel cooler for LGA2011 (the $20 cheapo) and at stock speeds it never got close to TJMax. IMHO you could turn all the case fans off and if the CPU cooler was setup properly you still would not hit TJmax at stock speeds.
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  6. #6
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    When RealTemp displays HOT that means thermal throttling is in progress.

    When it shows LOG, that means at least 1 thermal throttling episode was logged for that core since you pushed the On button.

    The Intel specified TJ Max value of 91C doesn't give you much wiggle room before throttling begins. These sensors are not 100% accurate so if all 3 sensors are reading a little high, you will have even less headroom before throttling begins.

    During normal use, your CPU will live a long life but if you are an XS Member and own a Core i7-3930K, you are probably interested in doing some overclocking. You need a better heatsink or you need to remount the heatsink you have. Go watch some YouTube videos if you are uncertain how to do this. The sooner you learn how to take care of your computer the better off you will be. I wouldn't allow some "system builders" to change the oil in my car let alone touch my computer.

  7. #7
    s4pphire
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    Way over the top, incorrect installation/fan not spinning. Considering cores 5 & 6 are much hotter, thermal paste or badly seated heatsink could be the cause. The case isn't responsible for those temps at least.

    All in all, going above 70 for longer periods is probably not a good idea.

  8. #8
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    Thanks everyone, your help is much appreciated.

    I've opened up the case and turned the system on and the fans are working as they should so I guess it's time for me to 'grow some' and visit YouTube for some lessons.

  9. #9
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    One or more screws either not through board or not properly engaged. You can tell its low on contact on one side/corner due to the right to left temp spread.

    AC heatsinks come with paste pre-applied (*just spotted this one comes with a tube of paste so worth checking if any has been used, it should be grey not white or silver) and no protective cover, they have a small plastic tray which is clipped over the whole base of the heatsink. You have to remove your intel pushpins/screws from the stock heatsink and fit them to the H mount plate. Theyre so hard to get to and see with a tower cooler fitted this is a really easy and common mistake. I see this a lot both at work with our OEM sourced builds and when ive looked at overheating PCs for people. Mainly on pushpins but ive seen a few cross threaded or just untightened screws. BTX format was a nightmare for it.

    If its only load tested and not temperature tested then you can easily miss it as throttling and what pressure it does have on the cpu will stop any crashing. As the heat isnt getting into the heatsink properly you wouldnt by touch notice any temp issue as a lot of the excess heat would be transferred through the motherboard.

    [EDIT - Another thought, is the heatsink hitting any of the heatsinks on the board anywhere? That could lift one side of the heatsink enough to throw your temps off.]
    Last edited by PiLsY; 04-24-2012 at 11:11 AM.

  10. #10
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    Your system builder should have been concerned when you told him it shut off. Especially at stock speeds. No...that is not normal.

    Here's an install video for your cooler.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aqbrSxZnK0o
    i5 2500K @ 4.7ghz 1.32v(+.010 offset LLC set to 4) / ASRock P67 Extreme4 (B3) / 2x4gb Samsung Green MV-3V4G3D @ 1866mhz 1.35v / AMD HD 6850 1gb /2x150gb Velociraptor Raid 0 + 500gb WD Green / Corsair TX 750watt V2

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    Thanks PiLsY and GripS, that's really helpful info. Yesterday I ordered some Arctic Cooling MX-4 and an ArctiClean thermal paste removal kit so should be set to get cracking on it tomorrow.

  12. #12
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    wow that cooler should not get this high temp (stock clock)

    from your location your room temp is quite low (i guess)
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  13. #13
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    It should be immediately obvious if something is wrong when you remove the cooler. Check the base for the contact imprint of the cpu - the paste should be either thicker in the middle or at the edges, not thick one side thin the other.

    Id also check the screws arent cross threaded while you have the heatsink off before you try your re-fit.

    You may have to go as far as taking the board out and fitting the heatsink outside the case so you can have a good visual check that its on straight and true. If you still have issues take lots of pics and post them up for us to take a look at.

  14. #14
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    Talking Woo hoo!

    Well folks, I've done the dirty deed!

    I took most of the components out of the Fractal Design case, cleaned up the cpu and heatsink and re-applied Arctic Cooling MX4 paste and rebuilt the computer into ...wait for it.... a Coolermaster ATCS 840! This was what my previous system was installed into (the one before the Fractal Design build) so I obviously had to take everything out of the Coolermaster case first although I left the Corsair Pro Series Gold Modular AX850 PSU inside as it's higher quality and I like the fact that it's modular.

    You're probably thinking I'm completely unhinged going from my Coolermaster to the FD but I was hoping to have something that was a more manageable size yet was still powerful enough for my needs. Well that was dumb frankly and I've wasted money in the process but I guess I've learnt a lesson. As for the temperatures, well they're around 20C better when I run the Prime95 test so that can't be bad can it! I'm well chuffed!

    Here are the temps from my new Coolermaster build:

    RealTemp_DuringPrime95_inATCS840.jpg

    And here again are the original figures from the FD build:

    RealTemp_DuringPrime95.jpg

    Much better yes? Core 1 seems to get a couple of degrees higher than the others but as none of them are bad I think I'm OK but do say if you think they're still dodgy in some way though!

    Also, just to say that there wasn't anything obviously wrong with how the cooler/thermal paste was originally applied. I've never done this before so I know nothing but it looked OK to me albeit that there was probably a little more paste than I would use. There was no label left behind or anything obvious anyway.

    So, I shall now get back to 'normal' computing and maybe, just maybe, I'll think about some gentle overclocking some time in the future.

    Many thanks for your support and encouragement guys.

  15. #15
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    Your temps are looking good now. A variation of temps between cores is normal and yes you will probably have one core that is typically warmer than others. On my i5 2500k core 3 runs warmer at idle and load than the remaining cores.
    i5 2500K @ 4.7ghz 1.32v(+.010 offset LLC set to 4) / ASRock P67 Extreme4 (B3) / 2x4gb Samsung Green MV-3V4G3D @ 1866mhz 1.35v / AMD HD 6850 1gb /2x150gb Velociraptor Raid 0 + 500gb WD Green / Corsair TX 750watt V2

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