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Thread: Looking for Refrigerant Grade R600a in USA

  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by sdumper View Post
    Well I finally got around to trying to buy some to mix with some r14 and I cant find it anywhere

    Does anyone have any updated info for Med Supply Online or another reasonable US source for r600a?
    Hi Scott, here is where I get it now: IQ Dental

    Keep in mind that there is a HazMat fee involved (I think this was $20) so buying in quantity is probably best to offset this. I usually buy 6 cans which is a case, and you get a slight discount as well.
    Michael St. Pierre

    • Worked 15 years for Polycold Systems
    • Now Self-Employed
    • Manufacture Heat Load Controllers
    • Also do contract service work on Polycold units

    Side note: I usually don't respond to PM's or emails regarding the projects that I post in the forums. I feel it's much more fair to all, to answer questions within the forum topics themselves.

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by mytekcontrols View Post
    Hi Scott, here is where I get it now: IQ Dental

    Keep in mind that there is a HazMat fee involved (I think this was $20) so buying in quantity is probably best to offset this. I usually buy 6 cans which is a case, and you get a slight discount as well.
    Thanks a million the order went through very smoothly
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  3. #53
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    Item Qty Brief Description Rate Amount
    WLC-65F 6 Lenk Butane Refill HZ Ea/5.5oz $9.26 $55.56
    SHHZ 1 Hazmat Charges $27.50 $27.50
    Total $83.06
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  4. #54
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    Yeah that's the other source.
    Just not very fun vs a nice big tank.


    If you have a cooling question or concern feel free to contact me.

  5. #55
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    Im also wondering how to tap those cans to get the stuff out??

    I doubt it fits a standard hose.
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  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by sdumper View Post
    Im also wondering how to tap those cans to get the stuff out??

    I doubt it fits a standard hose.
    Try a side can tap, the kind that clamps around the can.

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crabby View Post
    Try a side can tap, the kind that clamps around the can.
    I also purchased one of their Dental Burners and converted it into a tap by removing the burner head and silver soldering in a 1/4" brass male flare fitting. But what Crabby is suggesting will probably work.

    However the nice thing about using the burner/tap is that you can remove it without loosing gas (top can tap is self sealing). You also get controllable on/off valving as well.
    Michael St. Pierre

    • Worked 15 years for Polycold Systems
    • Now Self-Employed
    • Manufacture Heat Load Controllers
    • Also do contract service work on Polycold units

    Side note: I usually don't respond to PM's or emails regarding the projects that I post in the forums. I feel it's much more fair to all, to answer questions within the forum topics themselves.

  8. #58
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    Bought the burner...is the burner assembly steel? If so couldn't i simply braze a shraeder to it?
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  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by sdumper View Post
    Bought the burner...is the burner assembly steel? If so couldn't i simply braze a shraeder to it?
    It's steel, so you'll have to use silver solder and flux (I'm talking about real silver solder, not that cheap silver bearing solder).

    Michael St. Pierre

    • Worked 15 years for Polycold Systems
    • Now Self-Employed
    • Manufacture Heat Load Controllers
    • Also do contract service work on Polycold units

    Side note: I usually don't respond to PM's or emails regarding the projects that I post in the forums. I feel it's much more fair to all, to answer questions within the forum topics themselves.

  10. #60
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    I was using the can type style on isobutane refill sets that were marked as 99.5% purity isobutane.
    It works.
    But it feels terribly dangerous and you have no control.


    If you have a cooling question or concern feel free to contact me.

  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by mytekcontrols View Post
    It's steel, so you'll have to use silver solder and flux (I'm talking about real silver solder, not that cheap silver bearing solder).


    Gotcha now I understand...when you said solder I had visions of a solder Iron
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  12. #62
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    Should be able to do it like a normal copper to steel joint Scott. Do you have 45% silver sticks and flux? Just steel wool both sides first, make the fit perfectly snug, and only heat the copper. Ron taught me how to do it properly forever ago and it can be tough to get right.


    If you have a cooling question or concern feel free to contact me.

  13. #63
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    Good to know thanks Adam.
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  14. #64
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    Bump for another buy from the dental place.
    Good store and Airgas just told me to go @$!# myself about any hydrocarbons due to flammability... then sold me a refill on my acetylene and oxygen. (D'OH!)


    If you have a cooling question or concern feel free to contact me.

  15. #65
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    It seems like it's hard to find little bottle in the US ... I'm in France and doesn't have any issue about ordering a twelve pack of pure R290 and R600a. I can also purchase some R600. Around 6 € here ( 7,5 $ ) per bottle of 420 gr ( 15 oz ).

    I got them on eBay.

    On the other side, HFC gas like R134a and R404A are really expensive here, and I'm happy to deal with hydrocarbon to make such small circuit as fridge or little water chiller !

  16. #66
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    They made them legal then made them impossible to get. Gotta love it.


    If you have a cooling question or concern feel free to contact me.

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