Quick question on Spray paint?

[IronWarrior]

I'm going to paint the inside of my PC case white, never done this before, but I been reading up on it.

Will this Spray be ok? Seems to be all in one can, primer, coat and finish.

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/s...Id_255239#dtab
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3005759168...84.m1436.l2649

Thanks for the help.

[NKrader]

spray

they seem fine for a nice rattle can paint job

[IronWarrior]

spray

they seem fine for a nice rattle can paint job

Ahaha, thanks for the correction.

So they be fine to use? Awesome, I will purchase one of these then.

Thank you.

[Torrentskillz]

The real reason for using seperate primers and paints is because all metals will have oils in them either from the manufacturing, or from the finishing on them. and some paints will not stick well to the finisning (ie galvanizing). so you use the primer to give it a base coat that paint can stick to.

seeing how you are using an all-in-one, they do work fine however, I would recommend more than one coat

[NKrader]

I would recommend more than one coat

only always, a few light coats. to cover and make sure get no drippy drops

[B NEGATIVE]

Thoroughly degrease the surfaces you want to paint,i use cellulose thinner for this, then build the colour up using lots of thin coats rather than thick ones.
I also recommend spraying in one area and moving the piece to dry in a warm, well ventilated place. Spray dust will make it look bad if its left in the same room it was sprayed in...unless you have an extracted booth to hand?

[IronWarrior]

Yeah, reading a few guides they recommend you do lots of light coats to build it up, so will do that.

I'm going to be drilling the pop rivets out tomorrow to break the case apart, but is it necessary to do that? Could I not just paint the bare case? The last question is I have is that I can't decide if I should re-rivet it or use screws and bolts to rebuild it, what you think?

I be spraying outside then moving the parts inside at night.

Once I start proper, might start a small topic to showcase my first proper full build, tho my case and parts are nothing xtream lol

[zanzabar]

for about the same price if u want it to look really good, get some automotive etching primer and some auto spray paint (and maybe clear if u want to really look nice). thats what im doing next time.

just make sure that go over the metal with a scotch pad and then clean and degrease it

[IronWarrior]

for about the same price if u want it to look really good, get some automotive etching primer and some auto spray paint (and maybe clear if u want to really look nice). thats what im doing next time.

just make sure that go over the metal with a scotch pad and then clean and degrease it

So that would be three items?

Automotive etching primer
Auto Spray paint for the base and main coat
Clear? Something like this? http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/k/KEECCV/ (Random Google find)

[B NEGATIVE]

You only need etch for bare metal.

[zanzabar]

So that would be three items?

Automotive etching primer
Auto Spray paint for the base and main coat
Clear? Something like this? http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/k/KEECCV/ (Random Google find)

im not sure, but i use something like this
http://www.duplicolor.com/products/selfEtchingPrimer/
i dont think that u can get duplicolor in the UK but out here u can go down to the local parts store and get etching primer for like $4 then color for $6 and clear for $4 and its great since its car paint and u have the choices out here of every modern ford or GM color, so if u guys have it im sure u have alot of choices for colors. your original post stuff should work though.

You only need etch for bare metal.

isnt the case bare metal.

[IronWarrior]

im not sure, but i use something like this
http://www.duplicolor.com/products/selfEtchingPrimer/
i dont think that u can get duplicolor in the UK but out here u can go down to the local parts store and get etching primer for like $4 then color for $6 and clear for $4 and its great since its car paint and u have the choices out here of every modern ford or GM color, so if u guys have it im sure u have alot of choices for colors. your original post stuff should work though.

isnt the case bare metal.

Yes, it's a American brand, but found some on eBay, this is the only listing for white: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Holts-Dupl...item2eba4b2f33 but it's the top coat spray, so would need a primer still, so still out of luck really since I read it can be a bad idea to mix brands since the chemicals can have a negative effect with each other.

Think am going to go with the Hammeright all in-one can and see what happens. Test it on one plate and see what happens, then do the rest if the results are good. As long the colour changes from bare metal grey/silver to a nice white, it's good.

[CrazyNutz]

You only need etch for bare metal.

I always recommend Self etching primer. Most cases have zinc galvanized coatings and regular primer will not adhere very well. I paint A Lot.

IronWarrior: Get Self Etching primer or you will be sorry when your nice pretty paint is chipping off.
1). Degrease the case with some denatured alcohol or other solvent.
2). blow it dry with an air nozzle. (Make sure your hands are clean if you touch the case).
3). Spray 1 thin coat of self etch primer. you should still see the metal. let dry 10 mins
4). Spray 1 more thin coat of etch primer. you should not see the bare metal anymore, let dry 1 hour or more (read instructions for coating times on primer can).
5). Spray thin coat of your color, you should still see the primer, let dry 30 mins. This is the tack coat
6). Spray thick coat of color. Not too thick where it starts to run or pool, just thick enough to where it looks like glass.

Let dry in a cool place. If its too warm the paint will dry too quick and you'll get orange peal. Never in the sun.


Also do not use the product that has double coverage, or primer mixed in! the stuff will always go on too thick and its orange peal nightmare.

[IronWarrior]

I always recommend Self etching primer. Most cases have zinc galvanized coatings and regular primer will not adhere very well. I paint A Lot.

IronWarrior: Get Self Etching primer or you will be sorry when your nice pretty paint is chipping off.
1). Degrease the case with some denatured alcohol or other solvent.
2). blow it dry with an air nozzle. (Make sure your hands are clean if you touch the case).
3). Spray 1 thin coat of self etch primer. you should still see the metal. let dry 10 mins
4). Spray 1 more thin coat of etch primer. you should not see the bare metal anymore, let dry 1 hour or more (read instructions for coating times on primer can).
5). Spray thin coat of your color, you should still see the primer, let dry 30 mins. This is the tack coat
6). Spray thick coat of color. Not too thick where it starts to run or pool, just thick enough to where it looks like glass.

Let dry in a cool place. If its too warm the paint will dry too quick and you'll get orange peal. Never in the sun.


Also do not use the product that has double coverage, or primer mixed in! the stuff will always go on too thick and its orange peal nightmare.

Thanks for the detailed instructions, it really helps. So if go with your suggestion, would these two Sprays be fine?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1807764471...84.m1436.l2649
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/White-Spra...item2a17d224dd

Thought I add a picture, I drilled the rivets out this afternoon and cleaned the parts up with some warm water and soap.

[El Mano]

Anoher trick is to spray one layer from left to right and the other from top to bottom etc.
This way you will cover every little hole and layers will mix homogeneously.

[CrazyNutz]

Thanks for the detailed instructions, it really helps. So if go with your suggestion, would these two Sprays be fine?

Im not familiar with the brand, but yes this is the right idea. however I notice the primer is white, and your topcoat is also white. It will make it hard to know if you have fully covered the primer. Regular acid etch primer is usually greenish gray. But you should be ok if you have good lighting to where you can see where the dull spots are. Dull spots will be just primer.

If you can find an etch primer that is greenish gray. Duplicolor, and Rustoleum both make this.

Also what El Maño said is a good tip.

And one more thing: warm water + soap is good, but i still recommend that you used a solvent afterwards. soap has the tendency to leave a film.

[IronWarrior]

Im not familiar with the brand, but yes this is the right idea. however I notice the primer is white, and your topcoat is also white. It will make it hard to know if you have fully covered the primer. Regular acid etch primer is usually greenish gray. But you should be ok if you have good lighting to where you can see where the dull spots are. Dull spots will be just primer.

If you can find an etch primer that is greenish gray. Duplicolor, and Rustoleum both make this.

Also what El Maño said is a good tip.

And one more thing: warm water + soap is good, but i still recommend that you used a solvent afterwards. soap has the tendency to leave a film.

Roger that.

Do I still need a Primer after using the Acid Etch?

So Acid Etch > Primer > Main base coat or can I go from Acid Etch > Main base coat?

[CrazyNutz]

Roger that.

Do I still need a Primer after using the Acid Etch?

So Acid Etch > Primer > Main base coat or can I go from Acid Etch > Main base coat?

Self Etching Primer (i.e. primer that also etches) > Main Coat

[IronWarrior]

Self Etching Primer (i.e. primer that also etches) > Main Coat

Awesome, thanks again. I just ordered my paints! I brought a grey Etchie and the White Gross.

[CrazyNutz]

Perfect!

[IronWarrior]

Well after many months, I finally rebuilt my case.

Only did some modding on it, I cut away the metal frame at the front of the casing that wasn't really needed, you can see the "cut" in the second photo at the bottom right, it's not prefect, but it's acceptable for me, it won't be in view once everything is put together. I drilled two new 80mm holes at the bottom that will be the main air feed to the case, directly into my GPU.



Since I turned the lower HDD cage sideways, I had to make a brace for it, my brother had this roll of metal strips with these holes that fitted screws really well. I could had done a better job with these I guess by cutting the edges and making them smooth, but I was lazy and plan to put some heatsink or rubber stops at the end instead. I used screws for the lower HDD cage since it will allow me to remove it. I'm also going to use screws for the front brezel since the only way to screw the HDD's in from the right side is with that removed.



Well, it's stalled again since I need to buy a heatgun still and some sata cables.

[Anniemay]

Looking good sir.