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Thread: Under the Ice Single Stage picture guide

  1. #1
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    Under the Ice Single Stage picture guide

    I started off with a Chilly1 evap and did some prep work on it. I used a drill and made some notches around the inside of the spiral. Then I used my Dremal to made some notches where my drill wouldn't work. Next I taped the inside of the suction channel. My intention is create more turbulance inside the evap.





    I made sure to clean up all the metal filings with air pressure. Then I used my wire brush to get the evap really clean. The most important thing you can do to get a good braze job is to sand all metal points that get brazed. I like to use my polishing wheel, wirebrush, and sandpaper. Also be sure to purge with an inert gas. (nitrogen)



    All I ever use is my mini torch



    After you braze it is important to check for leaks but I like to clean the evap first because it's easier to lap without suction line. I'm counting on no leaks because if you have a leak you have to braze again and then clean again.

    Last edited by runmc; 08-17-2013 at 05:47 PM.
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    Next thing I do is put the suction line and captube on the evap. As you notice I brazed a piece of 1/4 copper on the evap. This makes it easier to install the captube and if I want to change out the captube it is much easier this way. Always swag the captube to make sure the ends are fully open. I use a safety pin.







    Be sure to purge whenever you braze.



    Now I wrap the captube around the end of the suction line about 10 times. This helps with sub-cooling.



    After I braze I always put some paint on the brazed places. This helps to prevent oxidation.



    Now I braze off captube end and pressure test.



    Someone who is just getting started should pressure test before the do any cleaning or painting or you may find a leak and have to do it all over again.

    Put a pressure gauge on the lineset to watch for pressure drop. I also submerge in water and look for bubbles which would show a leak.



    Gotta rest my arm now. I'm getting typers elbow.
    Last edited by runmc; 08-17-2013 at 05:49 PM.
    UNDER THE ICE .com
    Phase Change Cooling

    is the remedy

  3. #3
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    Lineset shows no bubbles.

    Okay here is compressor and condenser.



    Add your discharge line.



    Be sure to purge while brazing



    Here I added filter/drier and suction accumulator. (personal prefference on the accumulator)





    Last edited by runmc; 08-17-2013 at 05:50 PM.
    UNDER THE ICE .com
    Phase Change Cooling

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  4. #4
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    Now back to more lineset prep. I use some 3M rubber waterproof tape to hold captube to suction line tightly. This also helps with sub-cooling.





    I now put the insulation on the lineset and braze it to the accumulator. Always purging with nitrogen. Purging helps to prevent and oxidation inside the system.



    On this unit I brazed the captube to the accumulator just for GRAY MOLE this also helps with sub-cooling. Some people see no need for this.



    Now I braze the captube into the filter/drier



    Now I pressure test.

    Last edited by runmc; 08-17-2013 at 05:51 PM.
    UNDER THE ICE .com
    Phase Change Cooling

    is the remedy

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    After about 36 hrs on the vacuum pump, I gave it a charge.



    Gray will be happy with this.



    Now I'll finish up with some painting, mesh, and load testing.



    After paint I added a few brackets to hold copper tubing in place during shipping and after.





    More insulation with liquid glue between joints.



    I'm a little overcharged but load testing will take care of that.



    Next up is the suction line mesh.



    Next is mounting enclosure.







    Compressor is a Danfoss SC18CLX.2 (3/4hp) with matched condenser
    Captube is .040 at 11'
    Suction line is 5'
    Refrigerant is r507 with POE oil
    Last edited by runmc; 08-17-2013 at 05:52 PM.
    UNDER THE ICE .com
    Phase Change Cooling

    is the remedy

  6. #6
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    As always, beautiful work ron.
    Those CE condensers look quite nice. And a good compressor choice of course; are these the old stock or did you Grainger/direct order up the compressor?

    Captube brazed/soldered looks good, clearly has good transfer to the pipe, but also shows hot much heat your passing off. Looks like its icing on the bottom of the accumulator just fine!

    What's your preferred evap cleaning method? You certainly look like you ground off ANY excess braze. Is it that dual shaft grinder in the background that I see?


    If you have a cooling question or concern feel free to contact me.

  7. #7
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    Yes Adam I use the grinder (I need a smoother stone) I also use one of those 3M fiber wheels. Gets the job done fast. Not Grainger but compressors are new. I wish you were here to give me a hand.
    UNDER THE ICE .com
    Phase Change Cooling

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  8. #8
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    Find me a ticket and throw some burgers on the grill and I'll be down their pushing out evaporators like an overdue woman in labor.


    If you have a cooling question or concern feel free to contact me.

  9. #9
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    WoW very nice Ron. Thanks for doing this !

    I made this sticky
    Last edited by Buckeye; 03-23-2012 at 04:43 PM.

  10. #10
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    Awesome work Ron

  11. #11
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    OMG this is great. much nicer than the one I have.

  12. #12
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    Great looking unit Ron.

    Did you ever try soft solder when securing the captube around the copper lines. The advantages are you don't use the expensive 15% silver solder and you only need to heat to 600/650 F degrees. You do need to use flux with the soft solder.

    But Nothing wrong with brazing.

    Walt
    The Laws of Thermodynamics say:

    Zeroth Law: "You must play the game."
    First Law: "You can't win."
    Second Law: "You can't break even."
    Third Law: "You can't quit the game."

    Do you wanna Play Thermodynamics ???????? I forgot "you must"

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    It's funny you say that Walt because there is a story behind it.
    As you can see my bench top get's cluttered as I'm working on a project. I try to get it organized before I start. I did have some plumbers soft solder on that bench somewhere but couldn't find it. I got tierd of looking and grabed my Butane torch and Radio Shack "Rosin-Core Solder" .032 dia. I had to double it over about ten times to make it thick enough to usebut it worked.
    thanks Walt.

    EDIT - LMAO - I looked back at the second picture and I found my plumbers soft solder. It was right in front of me when I started.
    Last edited by runmc; 03-25-2012 at 04:22 AM.
    UNDER THE ICE .com
    Phase Change Cooling

    is the remedy

  14. #14
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    Up to .040" I see! Good stuff, should perform well.
    Not a fan of the paint, but hey, everyones got a different style.

    What mount is that though? Do you know what material that block foam is on the inside?


    If you have a cooling question or concern feel free to contact me.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by runmc View Post
    Lineset shows no bubbles. Now I let it sit and see if I get a pressure drop. Probably don't need to do this if you don't have bubbles, but it doesn't hurt.

    Hi Ron -- great tutorial, very nice work, but I just had to comment on this.

    Do you have some magic way of sensing pressure drop? Reason I ask is that I don't see a gauge hooked up, and even if that Schrader has a pin in it, hooking up a hose and gauge normally results in a small loss even with self sealing couplings (or at least mine do). That small loss could be interpreted as a pressure drop, especially considering the small volume being looked at.

    n00b 0f l337: Find me a ticket and throw some burgers on the grill and I'll be down their pushing out evaporators like an overdue woman in labor.
    Michael St. Pierre

    • Worked 15 years for Polycold Systems
    • Now Self-Employed
    • Manufacture Heat Load Controllers
    • Also do contract service work on Polycold units

    Side note: I usually don't respond to PM's or emails regarding the projects that I post in the forums. I feel it's much more fair to all, to answer questions within the forum topics themselves.

  16. #16
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    Hey Mytek, I think he had it hooked to his gauge set at the time, or his pressure regulator


    If you have a cooling question or concern feel free to contact me.

  17. #17
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    that compressor looks familiar

    great writeup Ron, that brazing work looks perfect
    Quote Originally Posted by Hondacity View Post
    gskillllin it!

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by mytekcontrols View Post
    Hi Ron -- great tutorial, very nice work, but I just had to comment on this.

    Do you have some magic way of sensing pressure drop? Reason I ask is that I don't see a gauge hooked up, and even if that Schrader has a pin in it, hooking up a hose and gauge normally results in a small loss even with self sealing couplings (or at least mine do). That small loss could be interpreted as a pressure drop, especially considering the small volume being looked at.

    Your right Michael. My wording and picture arrangement were off in this post. I already had it hooked up to my gauges and did a pressure check. I also filled my kitchen sink and did a bubble check.I never trust Schrader valves. They will let you down.
    UNDER THE ICE .com
    Phase Change Cooling

    is the remedy

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