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Thread: Project Poison Ivy (Lian Li PC-P50)

  1. #1
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    Project Poison Ivy (Lian Li PC-P50)

    I've definitely lurked way more than I've contributed to this site...so I'd like to give something back. Instead of merely showcasing, I'll try to include a bit of instruction and reasoning in this worklog.

    Ivy Bridge is not out yet, so the major electronic components have not been chosen. My plan is to modify a Lian Li PC-P50WB (You can see the last one i did HERE), incorporating a decent, basic but complete water cooling system. I will then wait until Ivy Bridge & Nvidia 6xx hit retail, and after they've matured a bit (I'm in no rush), I will purchase. So...the idea here is to have an Ivy-Bridge ready case, and detail how I got this done from A-Z...from case construction, through wiring the mobo panel, to benchmarks...so a noob can gain something from it (I'm not terribly far from that status myself). I'll clean the post up as I move, and at some point I will final-edit.

    I've chosen this mid-tower because it's the size I want...easily transported to a LANparty, attractive, great thermal properties, and plus it's a dead match for my GF's rig (His/Hers). EASILY modified for WC with basic handtools and a dremel, right at home. No fancy water/laser-cutting or commercial grade fabrication skills are required. It will be as silent as possible, but capable of gaming or folding for long periods, worry free. For appearance and theme, I'd like this one to accomodate my mood, so each lighting mode must be able to be independantly switched on or off. The color will be nickel/plexi, black and green. Lighting will consist of green LEDs, UV (LED's or possibly cathodes), white LEDs, or OFF. There will be NO LED fans in this build (because...yawn). The fans I've chosen are capable of over 100CFM, fairly quiet, awesome static pressure (best I've seen out there), and have ball-bearings.

    Planned Features

    Case: Lian Li PC-P50WB
    Front Radiator: Ek Coolstream RAD XTC 280
    Top Radiator: Magicool 280 Slim MC-RADI280
    Fans: Bgears B-Blaster 6x140mm, 1x120mm
    Pump: Swiftech MCP-355
    Pump Res Top: XSPC Acrylic Reservoir for Laing DDC
    Fittings: Bitspower Shiny Silver compressions/barbs
    Tubing: Tygon clear 1/2" ID / 3/4" OD
    Coolant: Swiftech flourescent green HYDRX-PM
    Fan Controller: Aquaero 5 LT
    Optical Drive: Lite On slot load DVD slim drive
    Hard Drive: 3TB WDC Black SATA 6GBs
    SSD (Caching): 64 GB Crucial
    PSU: Corsair 1200w
    Motherboard: Undetermined
    CPU: Undetermined (Ivy Bridge)
    RAM: Undetermined
    Graphics Cards (x2): Undetermined (Nvidia)
    Waterblocks: Undetermined (EK if they offer nickel / plexi)



    22mm switch panel I'm working on...rings glow green.


    Starting with the top (which is removable with 4 screws), I'm just getting rid of obstructive, potentially rattling material here.




    There is no room whatsoever for gaskets...radiator must mount metal-to-metal.




    Lid pops right on...easy as pie


    Getting started on the case...the 140mm Rad is a tight fit, so these 4 tabs need to go (The front tabs up in the second bay also need to go in order to clear the fan controller mod...see later down in the post)




    Next step is prepping the front rad / mounting all 4 fans (push/pull)and pump.
    Being mindful of screw length...



    Next, the pump & res-top are assembled



    The Swiftech foam pad is too thick for this build, so I cut some thinner foam. Lian Li included
    it with the case hardware (for HDD mounting).





    Now the pump and radiator need to be mated prior to installation. Rad will hang upside-down,
    with the pump outlet going directly into it.


    You can see roughly how high the rad must be raised in relation to the pump outlet



    Install radiator/pump assy & get ready to size it up for mounting. The object is to have 2 useable
    drive bays up top, so radiator height is critical. Too high and the radiator tank obstructs the second bay.
    Too low and the pump won't sit flat...so play with tubing length to get it just right...just remember that
    if the tubing's too long you'll be running into the PSU wires.
    Also critical is the fore / aft depth. Too far forward, and you won't be able to latch / remove grills.


    Marking radiator for mount holes...



    Punch the spots to drill to avoid bit drifting, then tap and screw





    Mount pump by marking / drilling, install rubber grommets on pump feet, then run bolts through
    them from the bottom up. The front mount bolt is a bit tricky to reach.



    Top 2 bays are clear (just barely).


    Bottom of rad: Left hole will be the temp sensor, and the right will be the coolant drain.




    Not sure how the 2011 socket is oriented because I don't have one yet, but the area shown
    must be trimmed in order to fit the 1155




    Fan Controller:
    Decided to use my brain a little and come up with a way to mount the Aquaero 5 LT. It would be so much easier to simply purchase the Pro or XT version, but I can't stand the look of the LCD...it is blue and there is no way to change the color to match a theme...plus...I prefer navigating software to fiddling with a few buttons on a front panel. My experience with these controllers has told me the VRMs need active cooling, and most definitely installation of the optional, passive HS (This one's the latest / greatest offering, purchased through Performance PCs).

    The fans are Scythe silent 40mm.

    I've recycled the (now worthless) Lian Li triple drive bay to construct a mounting/cooling solution.















    This should allow me easy access...resetting/servicing the LT during those pesky firmware updates, as well as replace any fans which may decide to fail later. There is also enough room to mount one or two SSDs in the tray. I wish Aquacomputer made something like this for purchase (hint).
    **Had to grind the rivets down flat for better clearance. Bench testing confirmed near silence of the 40mm Scythes...I just hope they last a while.






    My inspiration




    Josh
    Last edited by Eeeaugheeeaugh!; 01-29-2012 at 11:07 AM. Reason: Updates
    Never, under any circumstances should you be naked near fishing tackle.

  2. #2
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    IB won't be out until April 2012 at the earliest from what I heard, so not too soon! But I think your idea sounds good and reasonable. I myself always prefer to build when a generation is still relatively new, so I think I would do the same...good luck.

  3. #3
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    That is a lot of switches. Why do you need so many? I admit they look a lot better than original panel.
    Also, what do you think about that plastic part of the case, on connection between top and front, where "Lian Li" sticker is. I was considering getting that case, but always disliked that part of it.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by aerial View Post
    That is a lot of switches. Why do you need so many? I admit they look a lot better than original panel.
    Also, what do you think about that plastic part of the case, on connection between top and front, where "Lian Li" sticker is. I was considering getting that case, but always disliked that part of it.
    Switches (Left to right) are:
    (Momentary)
    1. PWR
    2. Reset

    (Latching)
    3. Green LEDs
    4. UV Cathodes & LEDs
    5. White LEDs.

    Also...I have two momentary switches left over I'll be placing in the interior (so people don't go mashing them at will) which will be wired for 1. CLRCMOS and 2. Reset jumper for Aquacomputer.

    The plastic on this case is minimal...the only plastic is the part you see on the front/top...merely for the area immediately surrounding the switch panel. The other 85% of the "lid" is aluminum. You can see that (short of a casting) there was no way to manipulate rolled metal to achieve this shape...so plastic was used only where absolutely necessary...I don't even notice it. Also...the lid literally pops right off. The holes or "mesh" traditionally used in these Lian Li cases creates an area approximately 60% to 40% open. It's perfect most times...but I sometimes pop the top off during severe torture. Comes off in less time than it takes to pick your nose.
    Last edited by Eeeaugheeeaugh!; 12-11-2011 at 10:01 AM.
    Never, under any circumstances should you be naked near fishing tackle.

  5. #5
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    I like the way this is coming out.
    i7 2600k, 8GB 1866Mhz DDR3, GTX560 Ti, Gigabyte Z68XP-UD4, CM Cosmos 1000 Case, and some green crap everywhere.
    Quote Originally Posted by Alexandr0s View Post
    So you're saying I could use my own pee as coolant?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by defect9 View Post
    I like the way this is coming out.
    Thanks! Me too!
    Never, under any circumstances should you be naked near fishing tackle.

  7. #7
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    Looks like I'm waiting

    Ivy Bridge? Umm...what a freakin letdown. Come on AMD, do something already!

    Happily gaming on my 2500K sys for quite a while now.

    Project on ice until there is a good enough reason to unbox the case....
    Never, under any circumstances should you be naked near fishing tackle.

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