my rant. (my whining like a little b****) ~ part 2

[IFMU]

If any wheel on any vehicle looks like it jiggles and bounces a lot over bumps in a rather uncontrolled manner, that is a typical indicator that the shock or strut on that wheel is essentially blown out. All you're doing is riding on the spring on that wheel. Bad for traction and very hard on the tire. Good thing is, the vast majority of solid rear axles use simple and relatively cheap shocks, NOT struts. And actually, as as side note, GM trucks don't use struts in the front either - they resemble a strut at first glance (and most people incorrectly call them a strut), but the giveaway is the presence of both upper and lower control arms.

understandable, but the way she explained it, it seemed more than just that though.
really wish i was able to see it myself, but i'm not comfortable with the truck being driven, let alone someone else driving it that hasn't since this has started up.

Marty, I need you to look at the codes in your glovebox and tell me whether you see the code Z55 or ZW7 listed. That will determine what shocks are needed in the rear (and what the cost will be).

ok, it will be a bit before I can, but i will make a note in my phone to check it next time i'm around the truck to check.

BTW how many miles on the vehicle?

108000. roughly, give or take 500

As for the front - I agree with m411b, it does sound like a transfer case problem to me, at least offhand. Dang it I wish I could actually look at the vehicle, would make it much easier to determine what is going on.

wish you could check it out too! lol

[Sparky]

When you check the codes in the box, also go to the rear bumper and give it a couple firm pushes downward to get it bouncing some, on each corner. It should bounce once/twice (depending on how hard you pushed) and come to a controlled stop. If it just jiggles around then it's shot.

At 108k if they are still original they are due for replacement anyway.

[IFMU]

odds are they probably do need to be replaced. but there's no possible way i could afford that. even doing it myself! lol

[slaveondope]

Disconnect the front drive shaft until you get the abs, vehicle speed sensors and transfer case checked out. m411b is correct about the transfer case.

[IFMU]

Disconnect the front drive shaft until you get the abs, vehicle speed sensors and transfer case checked out. m411b is correct about the transfer case.

i'll be honest here, i'd have no idea where to start to do what you're saying there.
i can do some work on cars, but my knowledge is extremely limited. let alone the newer vehicle is, the less i'd have knowledge on

[Sparky]

odds are they probably do need to be replaced. but there's no possible way i could afford that. even doing it myself! lol

Check them anyway. You need to find out if nothing else. Trust me, just check, and let me know

Disconnect the front drive shaft until you get the abs, vehicle speed sensors and transfer case checked out. m411b is correct about the transfer case.

No no no. You can't do that on the AWD model.

[slaveondope]

It may be a spline shaft input into the t-case anyways which would mean leaking fluid. It's not terribly difficult to remove but as mentioned if it's a spline input on the t-case you'll just leak fluid every where if removed. Some have u-joint ends on both ends that would allow you to disconnect 4 bolts on each end remove the shaft and relieve you of the issue with no leaking fluid from the t-case.

Spline shaft

No no no. You can't do that on the AWD model.

True if it's not a locked output yoke.

[Sparky]

It isn't locked output. It's variable, which is why you don't want to remove it (or both CV shafts either).

[slaveondope]

It isn't locked output. It's variable, which is why you don't want to remove it (or both CV shafts either).

That leaves addressing the bad reading on the output shafts. Change the fluid and clean the sensors off, 100K it's due for it.

Does the Caddy not have this? If so have here put it in 2Hi.

[IFMU]

Does the Caddy not have this? If so have here put it in 2Hi.

negative. the only thing i have is a button on the end of the gear shift, for "towing" or whatever thats labeled.

That leaves addressing the bad reading on the output shafts. Change the fluid and clean the sensors off, 100K it's due for it.

talking french there man... lol

[slaveondope]

I got all my family out there in Wichita/KC but unfortunately I'm the only mechanic and I'm not heading out that way for awhile.

[IFMU]

I got all my family out there in Wichita/KC

my deepest and dearest condolences...... ~_^

but unfortunately I'm the only mechanic and I'm not heading out that way for awhile.

understandable, i'd stay away from here as much as possible too if at all possible lol

[m411b]

IFMU, did you get it to a Mechanic yet? Sorry for late response here, I've been all over the place in the last couple days.

[IFMU]

no i havent even had the chance to check with my insurance company if they've the towing service.
i've been so busy trying to get everything packed and ready to move before we get our 3 day.
think i've had 10 hours of sleep since monday? or was it sunday? i've lost track of the days...