my rant. (my whining like a little b****) ~ part 2
just a small follow up.
to everyone involved i'm sorry for bringing up things that you don't need to know or worry about.
i've killed off the thread and consider it gone.
my apologies for bringing it up and doing it.
i am sorry, please accept my apologies, it won't happen again.
if anyone has a problem with the thread i created previously, please state so, to myself or any other staff. i will accept whatever type of punishment that is deemed appropriate by the members and staff here.
Marty
Everyone needs to share their emotions and thoughts every once in a while. Its good for you and you are right about us being your family here.
My offer still stands; so send me a pm if need be. I wish the best for you. You are at the bottom and the only way to go now is up. It will get better my friend, just give it time. I feel your pain and I am willing to help out in any way I can.
Phillip
^^ agreed. If there is anything I can do to help, give send me a PM. Hope things get better and I'll keep you and yours in my thoughts and prayers.
thanks guys unfortunately, the only thing that could help me right now is if someone was a mechanic that could at least take a look at it and tell me what the problem is or the cash to do the same.
but again, thanks for the thoughts, it is appreciated.
If you were local to me I would take a look, sure I'm not a mechanic but I do know my way around things well enough to at least come to some sort of conclusion.
You could see if pulling the TCCM fuse (I think that's what it is called) helps any. It is supposed to basically turn off the transfer case.
The Cardboard Master Crunch with us, the XS WCG team
Intel Core i7 2600k @ 4.5GHz, 16GB DDR3-1600, Radeon 7950 @ 1000/1250, Win 10 Pro x64
tccm fuse?
not sure what exactly that is, ill check into it some next time i can get to it though.
http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/inde...howtopic=74350
Read that. If its an issue relating to the transfer case or front end that will identify it pretty much.
All along the watchtower the watchmen watch the eternal return.
only problem is there is no shuddering that i can tell at any point. that's the one thing that doing a quick skim through suggests and i don't notice that as a problem
Is it a lock that brings the tires to a screeching halt, or a hesitation/binding feeling that makes the vehicle try to lurch?
Either can be the transfer case, but a screeching halt could be anything in the front or rear end including shot wheel bearings and/or brake failure..
All along the watchtower the watchmen watch the eternal return.
a screeching halt, it feels like the front tires lock up
so no one's a mechanic near wichita ks? lol
gawd i need to get that dayumed thing figured out and fixed. have to rent a u-haul and get moved within the next couple of days. boy this is gonna be fun... o_O
IFMU, I'm a straight up mechanic. Born and raised! Went to a technical school instead of High School! PM me with EXACTLY what it's doing, model, year, etc. all the important info and I will do what I can to help. I live in TN however and the only thing I can do without actually being there is suggest to you what it could be and have you check things out. Really, mechanics isn't rocket science but it can feel like it at times!
I'm willing to help in any way you need, just PM me.
Lee
ok, hoping you don't mind, but i'll post it here. make it a bit easier for others who could add anything in as well.
i'm not going to bother with all the bs behind when it started etc, but what it does is when turning, the front tires lock up. it literally feels like the brakes are slammed on when driving. but it's only the front tires.
when driving you can hear what sounds like a grinding coming from the front left tire area.
when driving it doesn't feel like there's anything wrong really. it's just the noise that tells you something is wrong. when turning is a different story. i've noticed the sharper the turn, the bigger the chance of the tires locking up.
the easiest way to explain it is exactly that. during a turn, the front tires totally lock up.
with some googling i've read of some problems with the ABS on a few years of the escalades. I tried pulling the ABS fuse and that did nothing.
oh yea, duh... it is an AWD Cadillac Escalade 2002. As far as I am aware of, the engine/etc is more or less a stock typical for that make and year.
at one point i was taking to where we're moving to and someone was following behind.
Now it's hard to explain because i'm not the one who had seen it, so i have to go with the way she explained it to me.
from behind, when i was coming to a stop, the left rear tire by itself, lifted up off the ground and continued to spin freely.
Next, this i am going to show my ignorance when it really comes to vehicles.
the rear axle, in the middle, (the transmission?) the part that is in the middle of the rear axle. the axle part on the left side of the (i believe) transmission was bouncing freely when hitting bumps etc.
to try to explain, you're looking at it from behind,
[]---O---[]
^
tire / axle / trans(?) / axle / tire
the left axle, between the tire and the transmission, would bounce almost like it's free/disconnected from the transmission.
the truck sits high enough i can climb underneath and look things over with little difficulty. i don't see anything wrong or missing, at least not that i can tell.
hopefully that explains it well enough to get my point across. if there are any questions you might have that could help just ask and when i can get the chance to look at the truck i will and post.
it kind of sounds like you may have exploded a diff.
OK, to start; the blue circle in your drawing is called the axle "Pumpkin". The transmission is bolted to the engine.
The 02 Escalade had a lot of problems with chewing through bearings in the front differentials. But I cannot see that locking up the wheels only while turning. From what I understand, from my limited research in the past 20 minutes is that the transfer case on those has a fluid coupling inside of it, that if in a locked condition, provides no slipping to allow for speed changes(i.e. while turning).
How the transfer case works:
Also, to prevent damage to the viscous coupling, DO NOT:The NVG 149 RPO NP3 is a single speed, single mode transfer case. The mode is full-time all wheel drive. It has a planetary differential gear set that splits the torque, normally 38 percent to the front wheels and 62 percent to the rear wheels.
The NVG 149 utilizes magnesium housings. Proper fasteners, brackets, and fill/drain plugs must be used to prevent galvanic corrosion. The planetary differential uses the carrier (6) as the input. The annulus gear (4) connects to the rear output shaft (5) and rear wheels. The sun gear (3) connects to the front output shaft (7) and front wheels through the chain (8) and sprockets. The viscous coupling (2) consists of a sealed housing filled with a high viscosity silicone fluid and thin steel plates alternately splined to the inner and outer drum. The inner drum is connected to the input shaft (1), and the outer drum to the sun gear (3). Whenever there is a speed difference between the front and rear wheels, the inner and outer plates of the viscous coupling spin relative to each other and the silicone fluid provides resistance. The resistance was tuned to be high enough to bias power quickly to the wheels with traction, and low enough to prevent binding in a tight turn on dry surfaces. This is the most common way the viscous coupling is activated, the shear mode. If the speed difference is high, the coupling can lock or hump. This "hump" occurs when the heat generated, expands the fluid inside the housing, changing the fluid dynamics between the plates. This results in pressure between the plates, forcing them into contact with each other, similar to a clutch pack. In the hump mode, the coupling can bias torque 100 percent to one axle, if required. Situations requiring this are extreme such as backing up a steep gravel grade or climbing over off-road obstacles. The viscous coupling is not serviceable; it must be replaced if defective. This is because each viscous coupling is calibrated for optimum vehicle performance for both the shear and hump modes. If the viscous coupling is in the "hump" mode too long, severe damage will occur.
• Tow with only two wheels down
• Drive without one propshaft
• Drive with a "donut" spare tire for an extended period of time
I'm gonna continue to research this for you in the morning when I have more time. But keep this in mind; I think we may have narrowed the problem down to something in the transfer case. Not sure but at this point and with the limited research I have done, this "Sounds" like the problem. I hope that in some way this may ease at least a little pain for you. I think we're on the right track.
you got spinnersJ/K
just some basic education...a learning experience. the center section of the axle is called the pumpkin/differentials.
I believe chevy/gmc use independant suspensions front & rear, but I could be wrong. That means that the axle is not solid or 1 piece and ea corner moves independantly. Why the rear tire is in the air spinning is beyond me. I know the escalades have the auto leveling suspension.
stang might be onto something. You would have noticed a big bang if the diffs exploded though.
I am not a mechanic, but am mechanically inclined. I live In Colorado, but it would be a 10hr drive to witchita, I believe.
How do the breaks feel when you use them? do they feel normal?
the grinding sound could be a number of things. I initially was thinking stuck calipers and wore out pads/rotors and possibly a malfunction in the break system; causing lock ups.
Do you have any tools? you could disconnect the front driveshaft which would tell us if the problem is coming from the transfer case or if its in the front end itself.
I will give this more thought and post back if I think of anything
That's an awesome thread you pointed to STEvil! A lot of good info in there, and some good troubleshooting tips to boot..Originally Posted by STEvil
IFMU, your transfer case is the one listed on the last post of that very thread. Also, taking the front drive shaft out will ruin your transfer case, DON'T do it!
Last edited by m411b; 09-12-2011 at 08:46 PM.
I am not totally familiar with the escalade or newer vehicles, but how is removing the front driveshaft going to ruin the t-case?
It will essentially just make the vehicle 2wd.
I'm not trying to be smart, just wondering. I am used to older trucks and/or 4wd, not AWD.
ok, i really need to get back to packing... so i will go through the details on what's been posted and see if i can figure out details a bit more and maybe figure out the problem and possible cost.
if anyone can give me an idea on the possible/rough cost on what you're thinking is wrong i'd appreciate it.
i believe my insurance has a tow service, with what shoota and infrnl have sent me, i should be able to afford a shop to inspect it and possibly tow it back home if it's too expensive to repair.
i'm hoping i can get an exact problem on it if not actually get it repaired. at worst i can find out what the problem is and then sell it off for something more economical and running!
btw, @ the spinner comment, Pam had the exact same comment when she was telling me about that when we got where we were going! lol
thank you to everyone for the help, i do appreciate it.
now back to packing up things and i will read through more thoroughly with the ideas and thoughts on what it could be.
again, thank you everyone!
it doesn't have to make sound when it goes bad. i was just stating one way a diff can go bad. imo that is your problem. somewhere in the diff.
No probs. That t-case has a viscous coupling in it that reads the speed of the front and rear axles, and adjust accordingly as to not chew up tires and/or axles and bearings. It is a completely different(well not completely) setup to that of regular 4x4. It's acts like a LSD in of itself. AWD is full time, it's not chosen from a selector lever like on most 4x4 vehicle. AWD is always there so the t-case has to make up for axle speed differences.
Correct me if I am wrong or if I am not explaining it correctly.
The left axle bouncing makes me think its a bad cv axle or joint, maybe it has snapped and is binding?
All along the watchtower the watchmen watch the eternal return.
The rear axle on that is solid, and it sounds like it was just reacting to what was happening up front. IMO it has something to do with the t-case and forward. I just don't "Know" if the viscous coupling can cause whats happening. I'm gonna do some more reading by chiltons and other various shop manuals about that part and see if it could. I'll report back later.
Thanks for the explanation. This is exactly why I do not like the newer vehicles; too many things can go wrong.
IFMU: I hope you get decent news when you get the escalade to the shop. I'm praying that it wont be as bad as we all make it sound to be.
Keep us updated....which I'm sure you will
OK a few things:
GM trucks have solid rear axles, not IRS (independent rear suspension). They do however usually have IFS (independent front suspension). The 02 Escalade is no different - solid axle in the rear, IFS in the front. Just as m411b mentioned.
If any wheel on any vehicle looks like it jiggles and bounces a lot over bumps in a rather uncontrolled manner, that is a typical indicator that the shock or strut on that wheel is essentially blown out. All you're doing is riding on the spring on that wheel. Bad for traction and very hard on the tire. Good thing is, the vast majority of solid rear axles use simple and relatively cheap shocks, NOT struts. And actually, as as side note, GM trucks don't use struts in the front either - they resemble a strut at first glance (and most people incorrectly call them a strut), but the giveaway is the presence of both upper and lower control arms.
Marty, I need you to look at the codes in your glovebox and tell me whether you see the code Z55 or ZW7 listed. That will determine what shocks are needed in the rear (and what the cost will be).
BTW how many miles on the vehicle?
At any rate, all this is only for the rear suspension issues. If there is too much info, sorry, I don't mean to overwhelm anyone. I just like details and tend to get carried away
As for the front - I agree with m411b, it does sound like a transfer case problem to me, at least offhand. Dang it I wish I could actually look at the vehicle, would make it much easier to determine what is going on.
The Cardboard Master Crunch with us, the XS WCG team
Intel Core i7 2600k @ 4.5GHz, 16GB DDR3-1600, Radeon 7950 @ 1000/1250, Win 10 Pro x64
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