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Thread: Alert - Anyone that is using the Koolance bleed kits take a look

  1. #101
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    And that could be, but just something saying they are looking at it would be nice. The last time I did an RMA, when I asked about the issue they stated they do not test the items, just send them back to China for replacement. I just do not want this to get lost in the shuffle.
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  2. #102
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    Got the pipe back, but we've been handling an urgent website issue. The whole outside of the pipe looks like it's been wiped off, though-- there's very little discoloration. We need to send it back to our engineers in Korea to take a look. If it's corrosion, I would expect more obvious discoloration in the nickel on the outside of the pipe that couldn't be removed.

    Tim

  3. #103
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    Tim

    i guess that email, about changing passwords is true. will change my info asap


  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by Koolance View Post
    Got the pipe back, but we've been handling an urgent website issue. The whole outside of the pipe looks like it's been wiped off, though-- there's very little discoloration. We need to send it back to our engineers in Korea to take a look. If it's corrosion, I would expect more obvious discoloration in the nickel on the outside of the pipe that couldn't be removed.

    Tim
    Thanks Tim, yeah I really do not think it's corrosion since it did scrape off easily. If it's algae then it's pretty tough considering I was running PT Nuke in the system at the time, but who knows. I just do not want a repeat. I don't have the time like I use too to take my loop down for things like this. I have too many other projects that need my attention for me to have to tear down the loop and clean it. For what it's worth, it hasn't repeated itself in my latest setup listed in my sig, another reason I do not think it's algae.
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  5. #105
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    There is nothing like having some bizarre stuff growing in your loop while you are to busy for a tear down. Algae is not the easiest to clean; it normally takes some scrubbing to get off.

  6. #106
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    You are not lying. I just finished building my deck and was getting ready to start a new project inside the house and now I find I have a busted water pipe outside, so now I get to dig up my front lawn tonight once the sun goes down a little bit. One thing after another.
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  7. #107
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    Yep. When you don't have time, you rush or do it exhausted. Then you make mistakes, and you don't want to make them on your PC.
    Last edited by matari; 08-06-2011 at 06:27 PM.

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by Koolance View Post
    Got the pipe back, but we've been handling an urgent website issue. The whole outside of the pipe looks like it's been wiped off, though-- there's very little discoloration. We need to send it back to our engineers in Korea to take a look. If it's corrosion, I would expect more obvious discoloration in the nickel on the outside of the pipe that couldn't be removed.

    Tim
    Hi Tim,

    Any idea what this is yet? I just installed my RP452X2 a couple of weeks ago, and already I'm seeing the same discoloration build up on the pipe. I put my silver kill coil in that same chamber and that is actually showing signs of discoloration as well.

    I will note one strange thing though. When taking this reservoir out of the plastic bag, there was a strong and strange fishy smell that emitted from inside. Before installing, I gave the res wipe down with a damp terry cloth and distilled water only. I let it air out for about a day and that seemed to have tamed the odor.

    I didn't think much of it until now. Could this be related?

    Thanks for your time.
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  9. #109
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    Unfortunately, we could not conclude what the issue was with the samples we received because the copper-colored powder was gone on arrival. We agree it's likely some type of reaction between different metals/liquid in the loop. Users have mentioned the coating on the outside of the pipe could be wiped off but the nickel plating remained intact. The 3 customers we've had mention this issue so far are using PT-Nuke or a Kill Coil with di-water.

    We need to restate our recommendation of using a good coolant with anti-corrosive/biological properties. There are examples of customers with every possible combination of materials and liquids who've "never had a problem"-- even bare copper/aluminum with di-water. But corrosion doesn't happen to every loop identically or under the same time scale. Sometimes it takes years to develop, sometimes weeks, and it occurs at different rates in different loops. Even small variances in metals and alloys can create a reaction over time, and there are many loops now using copper, brass with different alloy ratios, stainless steels, varying alloys of nickel, chrome, etc. Using a coolant with anti-corrosives and changing it regularly (for ours, we recommend every 2-3 years) can prevent damage from occurring before it becomes serious.

    Tim

  10. #110
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    Hi Tim, I have been using a RP452x2 for a few months now, the bleed pipe is starting to show the copper tone, tho everything looks clean and I am not worried...

    Was using Zalman G200 coolant (which includes anti corrosion) and silver kill coil..

    on another note: quick question..

    Is it safe to remove the baffle plates completely for normal usage? or will the pressure from the inlet be too much for the outer panel and cause a leak, The baffle is currently taking all the pressure at the moment.. I have tested this some what when I first purchased it and was flushing my new rads, the turbulence inside is minimal without the baffles (long side plug used, dual D5 in serial Speed 4, P2 OUT > GPUx3 > Radiator > P1 IN > P1 OUT > CPU > Radiator > P2 IN)..

    Was wondering if you guys or any users here done any testing of this..
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  11. #111
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    You dont need the plates there. Ive been running my 452X2 with neither plate inside it and its running like a dream. Yea it took me a few hours to get it fully bled but i dont plan on pulling my loop apart for the next year. All im using is Distilled water and tiny bit of anti corrosive/anti algae and its been running sweet for months.

  12. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by frank anderson View Post
    Is it safe to remove the baffle plates completely for normal usage?
    No problem at all. The pressure won't be too much, and the acrylic is there just to assist with bleeding and reducing turbulence. Some customers prefer running without them.

    Tim

  13. #113
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    Looks like I have the same issue (this thread)...now that I've read this I guess "rust" isn't appropriate and I have to stress there's nothing else really wrong w/loop and no blockage at all. Just strange. I use distilled and have a kill coil (no additives...flushed all a while back to just distilled). I'm now using Martins proposed setup now (baffle bottom left, bypass top right, 180 pipe on back) and other than the usual long bleed times it works great (and silent).

    This is just a very unusual deal and I would also be interested in a technical explanation one day.


    Martin...if you see this...my other question is given my loop as described (baffle bottom left, bypass top right)...why would I want to use the long pipe (effectively sealing the two sides of the reservoirs from each other)? I use the short plug and everything looks like it's working fine.
    Last edited by FuzzDad; 12-28-2011 at 06:51 AM.

  14. #114
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    You need to separate the two reservoirs for series or the first pump can't produce a pressure differential since the in and out are shared and pressure is equalized. It would appear to be working but you would only get the performance of the last pump.

  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post
    You need to separate the two reservoirs for series or the first pump can't produce a pressure differential since the in and out are shared and pressure is equalized. It would appear to be working but you would only get the performance of the last pump.
    So right...it took ages to bleed the system w/o the pipe and my temps and flow seemed odd. After I put the long pipe in it looks like my flow is better and temps slightly better. It's such an elegant solution...when you combine that reservoir w/two of the 450 pumps and some low speed high CFM fans w/radiators built to handle them it's almost silent. I just wish they had gotten to rev 1.3 as their first release.

  16. #116
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    To fix this problem you are seeing you need to add some Citric Acid dilute. Simply make a solution with 1 crystal to 10mls of water and add 1ml of that to your system. this is act as a de scaler and all so balance out your PH of the water and stop this from happing. We tested this and it works fine as long as you dont over do it you'll be perfectly fine.

    If you cannot get you hands on Citric Acid then get 1 lemon, squeeze it, filter it, boil it up let cool down and bottle it. you now have the same thing.

    Its all so a good idea to get a PH meter and dip it in you system now and then to keep an eye on the PH of your fluid.
    Last edited by mlwood37; 01-03-2012 at 02:09 PM.
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