compression fittings and copper pipe

[Elusid]

The title pretty much says it all but can copper pipe work with the standard compression fittings for liquid cooling?

[theseeker]

The title pretty much says it all but can copper pipe work with the standard compression fittings for liquid cooling?

Check this thread...http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...ct-White/page3

[Elusid]

Oh awesome thanks!

[Waterlogged]

Check this thread...http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...ct-White/page3

Never in a million years would I do something as risky and stupid as that. All he'd have to do is bump something the wrong way and any one of those pipes could pop out and dump all the water.


Elusid, There are two ways to use copper and be safe.

1. Koolance has a line of fittings (Link) that are specifically made for copper tubing, they even use a brass ferrule to lock the tube to the nut.

2. Mcmaster (Link) and MSC Direct (Link) carry a decent assortment of "push to connect / instant / push-in" fittings (look at post #41 in your worklog to see what these can look like) that are made for hard line / tubing. These fittings have a ring on the inside that locks onto the pipe or tube and keeps it from popping out easily. I have to warn you though, they are a bit more expensive than any other fitting we use. I used to use them so I have a good bit of first hand experience with them.

[Elusid]

Damn... The Koolance barbs look like ass and the others don't particularly catch my eye either but are the better of the two. The way our compression fittings work wouldn't allow for hard pipe would it? It looks like pipe fittings have an extra piece that goes over before the nut goes on... What if you put silicone around the ridges of a Bitspower (example) fitting so when the nut gets tightened down it seals the pipe from the inside? Does the nut rely on the tube/pipe to be soft in order to even screw on at all?

Edit: Wait, what about this? BSPP 1/4 is the same as G1/4 isn't it?

http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/NNSRIT...-SearchResults

[AllAgainstPaul]

I agree, Elusid. Those Koolance fittings look terrible. If Bitspower made a G1/4 to .5" ridged copper fitting with the same quality and look as the rest of their fittings, I wouldn't hesitate to purchase them.

[Martinm210]

Unfortunately for a true solid metal fitting connection you need something you can wrench on tight. Finger tight just isn't going to cut it for a true secure fitting. Maybe they could do a knurl with two flat spots or something..

I'd like to do a solid copper build some day too, I like the way the solid pipe looks when all shaped just right.

[MrBean]

Hello Guys,
As a qualified Control and Instrumentation Technician (yeah, long ago, 1988's or thereabouts) I've worked a lot of copper- and stainless tubin, and, as a few here have indicated, the only way to get a true clamp with copper or stainless is to use the proper barbs with ferrules that gets crimped tight onto the tube once clamped down.

But, for this environment, if Koolance or BP can make something similar with a fat o-ring, that can act as the ferrule, this will work too - unless you a couple of MPA's pressure, a solution like this will be fool-proof in a computer environment. So, basically a ferrule made out of rubber to clamp the tubing to the main barb.....with decent fittings...will go a long way do do something workable....

Let me find photos of a rig I've done in the early 2000's, when I had a Vapochill on the CPU, and stainless tubing - of course, I used push-lock Festo fittings there, and, again, contrary to poular belief, these things are used in Industry, and will work very well if you push the tubing in proper.

If they can withstand MPA's of pressure in the Industrial environment - don't listen to the scare-mongers telling you otherwise And I don't mean to sound like a wise-ass here - all you need to do is use the correct size tubing for the proper Festo quick-release.....but, they can be bulky.......and you will need a pipe-cutter to make square cuts ....

edit: Ah, the memories......my old Abit Max 3 with modded VTT controller et al - and, if memory serves, I had an epic battle with our very own Fugger for top-spot in this category - also competing with guys like Macci (Finland et al) - managed a few top-10 spots in SLI-category too Those were the days. But pics showing the push-lock Festo fittings I used with stainless - please don't crucify me, modding wasn't as big then as now, so a pretty ordinary attempt....



and



and

[RCG_Bex]

BP SLI fittings for the acrylic tube - they're got 2x o-rings on the inside and a ridge on the inside so you can't push too far etc.

[Martinm210]

Those would work if you could just find some sort of way to restrain the pipe from slipping out. At 7 PSI, you'll have about a 1.5lb normal force trying to pull the tube out of the fitting and all that is holding it is friction of the o-rings. In an SLI connection it is restrained by the other block, so there is nowhere for the tube to go.

I do like the looks of the sli type fittings if there was just some way to keep the tube from pulling out.

[AllAgainstPaul]

I agree Martin, and it only takes a little force to strip a G1/4 thread with a wrench. Bitspower may be able to circumvent this because of their rotary fittings.
The other issue is how to tighten the fitting correctly. the space in a case can is limited and it would be problematic to use a wrench in, Bitspower's fittings have a circle profile instead of a hex shape. One way to solve this would be to have a cosmetic conic cover for the hex of the fitting.

[MrBean]

Hey Guys,
Also bear in mind that with rigid tubing, this rigidity will prevent it from moving to much anyway......but safest in this case by a fair margin is using real push-lock fittings, like Festo et al.....they have o-rings, as well as a retainer-clip to prevent tubes from sliping out, and as mentioned, in instrumentation-applications, we have 1-2 MPA in the lines (with HP tubing) and no issues at all. Best to be safe, always use the correct fitting/tubing combination.

[Waterlogged]

The way our compression fittings work wouldn't allow for hard pipe would it?

Not a chance. Design simply won't allow it.

It looks like pipe fittings have an extra piece that goes over before the nut goes on... ?

That extra piece is a ferrule that crushes around the tube and creates the water tight seal when the nut is tightened.

Edit: Wait, what about this? BSPP 1/4 is the same as G1/4 isn't it?

http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/NNSRIT...-SearchResults

Yep.

BSPP = British Standard pipe parallel = "G", BSPT = British Standard pipe taper = "R"

BP SLI fittings for the acrylic tube - they're got 2x o-rings on the inside and a ridge on the inside so you can't push too far etc.

These are what were used in the link that theseeker posted and what I freaked out over. All they use are a pair of o-rings to hold the acrylic tube in place, not very secure at all.

[Elusid]

Does anyone know where I can find 10mm ID copper pipe? I bought a pipe tap and want to tap the inside + add the enzotech rotary m-m adapters

[OldChap]

Get some 10mm od pipe and swage it maybe? ...will there be enough meat (wall thickness) to cut a thread?

[Vinas]

You could make your own flange type connections, but like Martin said it needs to be wrenched down. If you do it remember to back up the connector less you'll twist the copper! So compression fittings or flange fittings would work, although it is a lot more work!

[Elusid]

Damn... Well I think what I may end up doing then is 90deg Enzotech rotary with the Bitspower mini SLI fittings with 10mm nickle plated copper pipe between. At least that's what I'm thinking for my straight shots since I don't want the possibility of something being knocked out.

[theseeker]

Does anyone know where I can find 10mm ID copper pipe? I bought a pipe tap and want to tap the inside + add the enzotech rotary m-m adapters

Check here http://www.smallparts.com/s?keywords...414261&x=0&y=0