PC speakers W/O Sub; 1-200 USD

[M.Beier]

Hi guys, can you please suggest me some loudspeakers without a sub that is below 200 USD barrier, and kicks arse.
Dont want the sub due I prefer bass from loudspeakers, and so does neighbours
In addition; RCA/minijacker etc.... I would honestly prefer something that I can connect with a minijacker, I intend running it to my splitter -> Splits it into 3 way (3x clictronic cables, female-female 3.5mm, 2x y-split gold)

I have been considering these;
JAMO S602
M-Audio StudioPhile AV 30
M-Audio StudioPhile AV 40
Microlab iH 11
Creative GigaWorks HD50i

What say you? Fire at will, and please, I know little about the market, feel free to suggest something that i have not thought of !

[M.Beier]

None with same needs out there?

[M.Beier]

Narrowed down the search to 2 winners;
M-Audio StudioPhile AV 40
Microlab iH 11

However, anyone with either system?

[STEvil]

Step 1: Pawn shop.
Step 2: Tower speakers + Receiver.
Step 3: ?
Step 4: Profit.

PC speakers are crap.

[HiJon89]

Step 1: Pawn shop.
Step 2: Tower speakers + Receiver.
Step 3: ?
Step 4: Profit.

PC speakers are crap.

Agreed, even some bookshelves would beat PC speakers by a mile. I got the M-Audio StudioPro 3 a few years ago for college when I didn't have room for anything bigger and they just don't cut it

[M.Beier]

Damn, thats harsh, hoping for something a bit more power effecient, and at this price level.... at the moment i got a 2.1 computer speaker system, it is killing me.

EDIT:;
At first I was looking at Corsairs SP2500, but I really want to get rid of subwoofer....
I want quite clear sound, low powerconsumption, shelve-speakers, none floor... Relative low price.... And if possible power effecient...
For true sound enjoyment, im using headphones anyway...

Look at it like this;
Purpose, background music when having guests...
Playing music when being on vacation (to scare off thieves)
Replacement of mobile-phone for alarm clock in morning.

*And occationally movies.

[STEvil]

there's usually a gain control on the sub to turn it down, but then again all PC based speakers are trash.

[PaganII]

For decent sound without a sub...
Bookshelf speakers with 8" woofer like JBL S38 driven by an AVR or stereo amp). Too bad they don't make them anymore

[Donnie27]

Hi guys, can you please suggest me some loudspeakers without a sub that is below 200 USD barrier, and kicks arse.
Dont want the sub due I prefer bass from loudspeakers, and so does neighbours

http://cgi.ebay.com/AT-10s-real-thin...item4159bdd58a

They have good Bass and nothing that will bother your neighbors. A bud bought a set for $100 at a Pawn Shop

Gosh I'm glad to have cool neighbors.

[recent]

Actually, those M-Audio StudioPhile AV 40 sound really good, i have the AV30 version..
and i like them They sound good !

[EniGmA1987]

M-Audio StudioPhile AV 40 are probably some of the better sounding speakers for that price range for computer use

[Andrea deluxe]

try Edifier S530D
i know is a 2.1 kit... but is really really good....

[Bobsama]

I have a pair of Polk Monitor 5 Series 2's, a TEAC AG-H300mkIII receiver, and a Little Dot DAC_I.

The main reason PC speakers are so stupidly bass-heavy is because the 3.5mm audio ports usually aren't full-range. They roll off and that produces weaker bass. With an external DAC, that's no problem anymore. I'm with other guys saying that you should find a cheap receiver and decent loudspeakers instead. You can buy new Polk Monitor 30's for like $80 a pair and they're not horrid. You'd be better off going for a pair of used speakers.

[M.Beier]

Edifier R1900TII, are they ok too?
They are about half the price of the AV40

[M.Beier]

Just called a retailer ~1km from my moms house, they've got a demo model, and selling for ~2/3 new price, Im collecting them today.

CHeers and I'll return on how they sound.

[M.Beier]

Cranked volume up to maximum when being attached to my laptop is not "that" loud, but, clear sound.... its 10PM here, so best wait for tomorrow with further tests, so far at the price I am pleased =)

EDIT; Other thing I noticed about the speakers so far... Either, just like my headphones, they need alot of "warming up", or the bass is simply just crap.... They are more then 2 years old for sure, bought them at a computer store that is just selling from warehouse now, used to have multiple stores but 2 years+ ago.... And these were a demo model...
Bass is low, even if I crank it up to maximum, however, diskant and middle tones work very well so far... Again; Cannot crank up volume at this hour.
Kinda feels like the 60Hz tones is all the way up at 140Hz... Not deep enough..

[STEvil]

you bought crappy speakers, what did you expect? Tiny speaker = tiny sound.

As to 3.5mm audio jacks not producing full range, that is only due to software settings or crappy (creative) hardware.

[M.Beier]

you bought crappy speakers, what did you expect? Tiny speaker = tiny sound.

As to 3.5mm audio jacks not producing full range, that is only due to software settings or crappy (creative) hardware.

Tiny? 11kg (pair), 166(W) x 290(H) x 215(D) mm (each)... Not the biggest out there, but decent size though.

[NEOAethyr]

I can't recommend pc speakers.
You could go for them...
Way to expensive for what they are for me though.

What I'de do:
100ft or more of 16awg copper cable.
Some particle board's.
Table saw and or sawsaw.

Some $10 6x9's...
Some $40 boss 2.4kw 96db 15in's...

Some old school grey receiver's...
Or car amps...

Some coils and bi polar caps to make crossovers with.

As a start anyways...

I'de honestly just get some 6x9's, some ok'ish ones that are dog cheap and go with that.

I so miss having 4x15's hooked up to my pc, I remember mechwarrior on those lol.

...
If for some reason you did use car amps.
Use a marine batt, or sealed dry cell I think were safe for indoor use too, whatever those cell types are that are in the power backups.
I'de prefer and try to use a 26a 12v psu or better just for that though instead of a batt system with trickle charge of some sorts.

I have no idea how they make there own battery backups supplies like that, I don't understand how they can get away with it and not have the charger fry things...

Best off to find an old stereo or receiver and some 6x9's or 5&1/4's or 6&1/2's.
It'll blow those 2-3in top of the line pc speakers out of the water.

Old school "grey" recievers are the best.
I've had 2x sony top of the line receivers back in the day and they sucked compared to those old grey ones I got for free.
I should of never let my mom convince me to toss them and buy me those sony pos's...
I probably shouldn't of pee'd on those and sent those to the dump either, ohwell got my headphones lol.

[Unseen]

Check these:

Wharfedale Diamond 9.1
I bought them for 200euro+shipping and I am really happy with the sound quality.

[MRip]

Audioengine A2 - Audiophile-quality powered speakers. Review below is for the first version.

http://www.stereophile.com/budgetcomponents/1207ae/

[Donnie27]

M-Audio StudioPhile AV 40 are probably some of the better sounding speakers for that price range for computer use

OK, no more. If you aren't using them to make un-colored FLAT recording, then they are being misused and don't sound worth a FART!

AV 40 Specs

* Type: Two-way desktop reference monitor
* Low-frequency Driver: 4" diameter, magnetically shielded and curved cone with high-temperature voice coil
* High-frequency Driver: 1" diameter, magnetically shielded silk dome tweeter
* Frequency Response: 85Hz - 20kHz
* Crossover Frequency: 2.7kHz
* RMS SPL: 101.5dB @ 1 meter
* Signal-to-Noise Ratio: > 90dB (typical, A-weighted)
* Input Connectors: Left and right RCA line input, left and right 1/4" TRS input and 1/8" aux input
* Polarity: Positive signal at "+" input produces outward low-frequency cone displacement
* Dynamic Power: 20 watts continuous, per channel into 4 Ω
* Input Impedance: 10 k Ω unbalanced, 20 k Ω balanced
* Input Sensitivity: 100 mV pink noise input produces 90dBA output SPL at 1 meter with volume control at maximum
* Protection: RF interference, output current limiting, over temperature, turn on/off transient, subsonic filter
* Indicator: Blue power LED ring around volume knob on front panel
* Power Requirements: 100-120V/~50/60Hz, 220-240V/~50/60Hz; powered via detachable 2-conductor line cord
* Cabinet: Vinyl-laminated MDF
* Dimensions: 8.75" (H) x 6" (W) x 7.25" (D)
* Weight: 14 lbs./6.34 kg

Sorry, 85Hz isn't even recommended to the THX certified 80Hz crossover for MTM (Mid-Range/Tweeter/Mid-Range) Satellites. The writer below is wrong in that THX is a Certified Baseline setting and NOT written in stone.

http://www.audioholics.com/tweaks/ge...he-right-stuff

Thus it was assumed that 80 Hz would make for a good crossover point between bass incapable speakers and the subwoofer. In most movie theaters, all of the speakers are rolled off at 80 Hz because of their bass limitations and thus the bass from all of these channels is feed to the LFE, or subwoofer channel. This configuration serves movie theaters quite well and thus seems to have been a good choice for a huge movie theater like rooms where bass localization is not as critical. However, it may not always be the best choice for all home theater configurations.

As you read the article, I only agree with 70% of what he's saying. AV-40/30 make great Studio monitors for recording but sucks for post production or normal playback, unless you don't like bass. Very same problem the Sennheisser Pro-280 suffer from, no bass. Since this was about speakers with no sub, most of the very good "Studio" type speakers would suck due to being used wrong.

[amd4me]

If you are in college or have a tiny space I think the Audio Engine A5's may be for you. While they are not really incredible by Hi-Fi standards they are incredibly loud,powered,and have a decent bottom end.
They can be had used for 200 bucks all day.

[SabreWulf69]

Most likely not in your price range but I'm thinking exactly what you are looking for (assuming you are only dead set on what you wanted in you first post besides price) -

http://www.bowers-wilkins.com/iPod_a.../Overview.html