Why you should use biocide pt. 2 **WARNING: graphic!** also, pump disintegration...

[NaeKuh]

the only thing is to avoid is clorox..

dude ive tried that... and it stains yellow... avoid it..

But yeah... denture tablets work too, as i said your after the high oxide.

[skuldarin]

things would be alot easier if parts companies designed their parts with different plastic materials other than acrylic or acetal. polycarbo or something that's super resistant would make things alot easier to use real heavy duty cleaners, even as much as brake cleaner or oven cleaners. talk about getting something clean... couple squirts and jobs done!

[penguins]

it would also cost a lot more, and Quad damage for only looking at pictures

[Sparky]

So, I decided to try some brake cleaner on the MCW60 base as nothing else was having any effect. Even that didn't make the slightest difference in the junk on the block I think I'm screwed.

[paulbagz]

So, I decided to try some brake cleaner on the MCW60 base as nothing else was having any effect. Even that didn't make the slightest difference in the junk on the block I think I'm screwed.

Some form of permanent metallic stain perhaps?

Sorry for your loss!

-PB

[Sparky]

Well if I scrape at it with my nails it will come off. But I can't get my nails in between the pins and stuff in the blocks.

[Waterlogged]

Have you tried a brass bristled brush?

[Sparky]

Actually, no I haven't. I'll have to look for one next time I'm at the store. no idea where I'd find it actually but I'll look

[Waterlogged]

They're commonly used to clean BBQ grills, might want to start there.

[Sparky]

Even so, if that works to clean the blocks I'm still not convinced I'll be able to get the radiator clean.

[Waterlogged]

I can't be bothered to go through the whole topic...have you tried vinegar or CLR yet? If not, get some CLR too and just let the stuff work the parts over for a while. Any chance of getting access to any ultrasonic cleaner big enough for the rad? If so, try that too.

[paulbagz]

Tried Coke?

Just don't leave Copper in there for very long

-PB

[fgw]

Sparky, besides algae and the debris the dark colored surface on your blocks looks like oxidation to me.

have a look at this thread where i used lemon acid and salt to get rid of oxidation.

just drop the blocks in and wait. this completely works at its own.

[p2501]

Sparky, for any very hard to remove residue I'd try dishwasher detergent. Use a high concentration like 1 tablet on half to one litre and everything organic will be gone over night.

I use this to periodically clean the inside of my coffeepot which is one of these that are made from steel, they're prone to build up a sort of coffee patina..

[Rubycon]

Brakleen is a strong organic solvent made for dissolving grease based contaminants. It will do little to remove corrosion. A local acid treatment followed by neutralization with H2O2 efflorescencing scrub will do the trick. These are pro methods not usually associated with pc watercooling but well known in other fields using water cooling. They are procedure specific and involve specific materials handling and instrumentation to avoid costly system damage and even personal injury!

The good news is with proper commencement of said procedure tear down is not required and the results are quite good. (again if done correctly)

I suppose this is why the majority of the hobbyists will tear everything down and clean manually.

[Sparky]

I haven't been to the store to pick up anything else to try, but I have been experimenting nonetheless. And I've got a little bit of positive stuff to report - I have a "tub and tile" natural cleaner that I soaked the base of my Fuzion in for a few hours. Was going to be an hour, but I forgot about it Scrubbed it with the old toothbrush and wouldn't you know, really black and icky cleaner frothed up and rinsed off, and I can see copper again! Not perfect, so I'm giving it another round, but it is progress!

And another plus, the company I order from accidentally sent another bottle with the recent order. Why, I don't know. They said it was their mistake, so keep it. Woot, extra cleaner of the right type! Enough to soak the radiator in probably.

No worries, I'll be sure to thoroughly flush EVERYTHING very well. I don't want cleaner residue foaming up in my loop

*edit* another soaking and the block bases are almost back to a usable state. Just a little bit of stuff left in some crevices and edges. Progress! Then the radiator, and the fittings, and I still need to get a new pump impeller... yeah this could still take some time

[Sparky]

Good news! Soaked the fittings in the cleaner and the cleaner turned a funny greenish color while the dark film covering everything on the fittings completely dissolved in it!

So block bases are clean, fittings clean, now just to get the block uppers and the radiator done.

One thing I noticed about the stuff in the blocks was it seemed a little shiny. Upon getting the fittings cleaned several of them have had the nickel plate flaked off in various spots. Most of them have the plating on the threads worn a bit. The Aquaextreme barbs for my old-style MCR320 have some nickel missing on the barb lip. Same with the EK barbs from my reservoir. A bitspower elbow has almost the entire inside of the corner missing the nickel plating. Interestingly enough, the Dtek barbs are least affected, with only the threads showing bare brass.

Most of the fittings were bought back in 2007, so some wear and flaking isn't surprising in one sense. Just some interesting info I thought. Am I risking the flaking getting worse and jamming up the pump or blocks?

[flybye444]

If your down to the last option try brasso or silvo with stiff tooth brush