need your suggestion/expertise on my single loop pissing flow issue

[PiLsY]

Dude the EK block doesnt create that crap - you have it floating round in your loop and its filtering it. Your choice is either to replace all the coolant and clean everything out or fit an inline filter for a couple of days.

[eXa]

Adding to the pump discussion, and Naekuh's idea:

Since you have the radbox, fans pumps in the other room, skip the 12/24v pumps and get iwakis MD (120/220v) pumps instead. I believe the MD30-RZ is cheaper than the ~ RD30
The MD is physically abit bigger and might vibrate abit more, but that shouldnt matter since its in another room.
The MD30-RZ have 8meters head pressure.
That might be overkill, so maybe MD20-RZ is plenty with 4.6M heead pressure. Just make shure its the RZ version, as they have more head than R or RX.
The MD20 is 40w and the MD30 is 70w (im looking at the 220v version)

So my suggestion is to go with the tank like Neakuh said, hooking both your computers up to it, and all the rads in the same loop connected to the tank with a iwaki MD30-RZ (the high flow of this pump might help mix the hot and cold water in the tank)
then use 2 MCP35X in the computer loop (you still have some extra feets of tubing to/from the tank and quite alot of blocks in your loop +the redundancy)

Edit: Throw a filter in the iwaki loop while your at it.

[NapalmV5]

Whats up with those deflated tubes? :O

Yep, the tubing doesn't look right... Shouldn't affect performance much, I guess, though, but still...

Holy crap, my wife would kill me if I did that.... looks like fun though.

Even if you remove the jet plate, whatever non-soluble crap is in your loop will clog the pins. I would use new distilled water only plus Pt nuke/biocide, and maybe 4 Koolance? quick connects and an inline high flow filter, run it for a few days with filter to trap any residual crap and suffer bad flow for few days while filter is in, and then via quick connects remove the filter and snap back together (use male/female for filter and line). If your tubing is not plasticizer free, then I wouldnt waste time and money doing that, since more plasticizer from tubing will be an ongoing problem. Also if you have thermochill rads, or flux problems, I would make sure rads are very clean.

and the compressed tubing does look like an issue, too thin walled?

Looks like your tubs are being restricted by the suction pressure of your pumps. Try changing to something more rigid, and for the long runs use some PVC. Do some tests to see what works best!

I think your problem is inlet restriction. A lot of centrifugal pumps can't handle restriction on the inlet. The D30's have just exacerbated the problem; they have more suction, but that just crushes the tubing and makes the inlet MORE restrictive. Looking at your tubing, I'm pretty confident that if you put a reservoir directly before your pumps (with very, very short hose runs, or pipes instead if you can do that) you'll solve the whole problem and, with that much pressure, maybe blow some gaskets)

[Edit:] I don't think the CPU block will cause a problem once you fix your inlet restriction. You might even be able to get away with a single loop.

Don't think I've ever seen tubing do what's in those pictures. And if your loop is clogging up weekly, you got other problems.

I have a remote rad set up , not to your scale , 8'down -8'up
-I put 1 655 in the case and 1 at the rads to balance the push\pull pressure most pumps push better than draw.

-can't tell by the pic's if both pumps are at the top[ up stairs] or low ,[downstairs]
-Try moving one pump downstairs and one upstairs -I take from the pic's your upstairs and the tube crush[crushed by air pressure-not sucking] is from pulling the water up to that height maybe.
just saying
-maybe cpu[system]>inlet upstairs pump[1\2"]outlet>[1"]down to rads>[res.?]inlet lower pump >[1\2"]up to system[1"] ?-might make up for the thin wall tube-open for debate for sure.

The suction, though, is what reduces the internal pressure to the point where the air pressure can crush the tubing. But this is not relevant to the point. The point is that you need to have a low resistance path on the input of the pump. The easiest way to do this is to put a reservoir in front of it.

Also, the output of a pump is definitely low resistance, so cascaded pumps will not have an issue anywhere but on the first pump.

[[The point is that you need to have a low resistance path on the input of the pump.]]
-just saying
-putting a pump up and one down cuts resistance in half\50% does it not ?
-where I,m at loss is that it's greater than 32'[I think] is the max any pump in the world can draw [@sea level?],so how -say a 2psi drop on the block's\tube relate[down-up]- scaled down in a closed loop on these low pressure pumps.

The resistance of a loop is the same no matter where you put the pumps. Think of it as pressure gains and pressure losses. The pumps are both pressure gains, any tubing or blocks are pressure losses.

Here's one weird thing:
*Water flowing UP a vertical tube incurs a pressure LOSS of the pressure of a water column the height of the tube PLUS the pressure loss of the tube.
*Water flowing DOWN a vertical tube incurs a pressure GAIN the pressure of a water column the height of the tube MINUS the pressure loss of the tube.

Which means a vertical loop, is exactly the same as a horizontal loop. Remember that absolute pressure usually doesn't matter, provided you don't do what the OP did and get the pressure so low that atmospheric pressure crushes your tubing. This is why siphons work.

Most of this is irrelevant since, from the pics he's posted, the OP's layout is completely flat.

Also remember that you can't have a block so restrictive that NO coolant flows. (well, you can, it's just a completely plugged one). Fluid resistances are dependent on the flow rate, so as the flow rate drops, so does the resistance.

Dude the EK block doesnt create that crap - you have it floating round in your loop and its filtering it. Your choice is either to replace all the coolant and clean everything out or fit an inline filter for a couple of days.

Adding to the pump discussion, and Naekuh's idea:

Since you have the radbox, fans pumps in the other room, skip the 12/24v pumps and get iwakis MD (120/220v) pumps instead. I believe the MD30-RZ is cheaper than the ~ RD30
The MD is physically abit bigger and might vibrate abit more, but that shouldnt matter since its in another room.
The MD30-RZ have 8meters head pressure.
That might be overkill, so maybe MD20-RZ is plenty with 4.6M heead pressure. Just make shure its the RZ version, as they have more head than R or RX.
The MD20 is 40w and the MD30 is 70w (im looking at the 220v version)

So my suggestion is to go with the tank like Neakuh said, hooking both your computers up to it, and all the rads in the same loop connected to the tank with a iwaki MD30-RZ (the high flow of this pump might help mix the hot and cold water in the tank)
then use 2 MCP35X in the computer loop (you still have some extra feets of tubing to/from the tank and quite alot of blocks in your loop +the redundancy)

Edit: Throw a filter in the iwaki loop while your at it.

yes the eheim pumps and radiators were immediately removed from the loop and since then are in a separate loop that just feed the 5 gallon tank

oh it deflated even further than whats in the pic ^

right now its still just one iwaki rd30 in the system loop and no need for a second one

how loud is the 120v iwaki md30-rz ? louder/about the same as rd30 ?

well the ek block surely doesnt create that crap ^ but it surely traps it the design is stupendously flawed.. idk whos copying who/who came up with such amazing concept but there should be ample space between the jetplate and fins but there is none! just a perfect trap for anything flowing thru the loop.. oh forget it! it has been removed! i could care less!

-----

thermal pads mustve gotten soaked cause it took all this time several days for everything to dry up.. i thought it all got fried up but everything is good

heres how well the loop worx now after a run of heaven 2.5 benchmark @ high quality settings/overclocked/overvolted.. delta of just ~17 C good??



and heres shogun2 @ 20C cooler than before



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

well i would like to thank you all for all your suggestions you guys have guided me and put me on the right track thats for sure and the systems running like a champ now

much appreciated

[penguins]

unless you're expecting sub ambient temps, why use that crap in the loop?

glad it works for you : ) sounds like you might as well change to an older or cheaper block without a jetplane then.

[Rubycon]

well the ek block surely doesnt create that crap ^ but it surely traps it the design is stupendously flawed.. idk whos copying who/who came up with such amazing concept but there should be ample space between the jetplate and fins but there is none! just a perfect trap for anything flowing thru the loop.. oh forget it! it has been removed! i could care less![/B]

You removed the plate and gasket completely?
How much does that affect temperatures?
It looks like you have the highest flow (4?) plate installed. The new blocks have the high performing (aka high restriction!) (1) with just two slits.

That's a lot of FOD in your coolant though. For a minute I thought I saw a leaf in there.