Watercooling and Algae

[MagisD]

Hmm... I'm considering blacking out the reservoir, although it is kind of a bumer to check water levels afterwards, guess it's still better than having the system filled with goo

Let's see if I can get that kill coil then, everyone talks so much about it.

Any thoughts on Feser One cooling? The guys at the local store say it's the only stuff they have because its good with everything: no coloring goo on the loop and tubing, no algae growth and not conductive(though they don't exactly believe this part that much).

Best regards

It's a lie, every claim of non separating or non staining is a lie.

biocide part may be true

Even mayhem / ianh stated it will. It's probbly the safest to use.

At some point every one is going to do one or both. Theres a reason every says the same thing distilled and silver.

Sent from my X10a using Tapatalk

[Eversor]

My main rig I have a bad algae problem that I need to clean up, but haven't yet. Temps are slowly getting worse, I can only imagine what the blocks look like

A server rig that I have also is running pure distilled + a killcoil, the res is clear, tubes clear, and still are after at least 6 months now of running.

I see, thanks. But then aren't you worried about galvanic corrosion? Or have you used some anti-corrosive to go with the killcoil?

[Eversor]

It's a lie, every claim of non separating or non staining is a lie.

biocide part may be true

Even mayhem / ianh stated it will. It's probbly the safest to use.

At some point every one is going to do one or both. Theres a reason every says the same thing distilled and silver.

Sent from my X10a using Tapatalk

One thing is sure, they have an open PC which has had watercooling for ages and it really doesn't looked stained. I haven't had that luck with most additives though.

[Erklat]

I see, thanks. But then aren't you worried about galvanic corrosion? Or have you used some anti-corrosive to go with the killcoil?

No corrosion if the only material your loop is comprised of is copper and elements inert with it. Aluminum or something out of Thermaltake's assortment? Now we are talking

I noticed a stain on my res, so I might have some puke somewhere in the loop. I'm going to disassemble it as soon as my mobo block arrives anyway, so I find this information here most useful

[Sideroxylon]

Lets see if I can sum things up for you since it's obvious you're a bit confused.

The non-conductive fluid claim is BS. Even if it is non-conductive out of the bottle, eventually it will become contaminated and become conductive. Best bet is to just be careful when filling and make sure all connections are secure.

If the components in your loop are all copper, brass, nickel, or silver there's no need to worry about galvanic corrosion. Most wc'ing components are made of these today so it's easy to avoid the corrosion issue.

Use distilled water and a silver killcoil and you won't have to worry about algae or dye separating and clogging up your blocks. If you really want some color use colored tubing.

[Eversor]

Lets see if I can sum things up for you since it's obvious you're a bit confused.

The non-conductive fluid claim is BS. Even if it is non-conductive out of the bottle, eventually it will become contaminated and become conductive. Best bet is to just be careful when filling and make sure all connections are secure.

If the components in your loop are all copper, brass, nickel, or silver there's no need to worry about galvanic corrosion. Most wc'ing components are made of these today so it's easy to avoid the corrosion issue.

Use distilled water and a silver killcoil and you won't have to worry about algae or dye separating and clogging up your blocks. If you really want some color use colored tubing.

Is that related to the anodic index then? So aluminum would cause me problems but brass + copper would be ok? From what I can see from that table mixing nickel would be a no go.

So I currently have an apogee GT, severel nickel plated connectors(or so it seems) and a brass(possibly also copper based) radiator from Swiftech. Guess I dump the connectors and I'm ok?

[NaeKuh]

Is that related to the anodic index then? So aluminum would cause me problems but brass + copper would be ok? From what I can see from that table mixing nickel would be a no go.

So I currently have an apogee GT, severel nickel plated connectors(or so it seems) and a brass(possibly also copper based) radiator from Swiftech. Guess I dump the connectors and I'm ok?

Brass + Copper + Silver + Gold + Titanium + Zinc + (good quality Steel) + Chrome
= will all play nice together..

The corrosion between those metals is so obnoxiously slow, by the time u notice something corrode, you'll hair will have also corroded away.

Alu <--- this is the main thing we warn people about.... especially if theres copper in the connecting loop.

Bad steel / iron... this straight up rusts... and yes ive had it happen inside a loop.

[Sparky]

I see, thanks. But then aren't you worried about galvanic corrosion? Or have you used some anti-corrosive to go with the killcoil?

Copper and copper alloys are safe together. Nickel, brass, copper, silver, gold, stainless steel - all safe. So nope, no corrosion worries, so no corrosion inhibitor needed

[Conumdrum]

Hmm... I'm considering blacking out the reservoir, although it is kind of a bumer to check water levels afterwards, guess it's still better than having the system filled with goo

Let's see if I can get that kill coil then, everyone talks so much about it.

Any thoughts on Feser One cooling? The guys at the local store say it's the only stuff they have because its good with everything: no coloring goo on the loop and tubing, no algae growth and not conductive(though they don't exactly believe this part that much).

Best regards

Looks like your local store guys don't know much about real watercooling, or they are trying to get you to buy stuff, have it screw up and buy more stuff. Better yet, ask them what watercooling forums they frequent and post regularily to. Betcha it's ZERO.

Please read these links.
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/s...51#post6665651
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/s...51#post6665651
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=170188

[Eversor]

Looks like your local store guys don't know much about real watercooling, or they are trying to get you to buy stuff, have it screw up and buy more stuff. Better yet, ask them what watercooling forums they frequent and post regularily to. Betcha it's ZERO.

Please read these links.
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/s...51#post6665651
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/s...51#post6665651
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=170188

All righty

Thank you for the input. I'll try to grab the kill coil then and start experimenting with it. This week I think I'll get to cleaning the pump and res, which are the ones in need of care.

[Eversor]

Brass + Copper + Silver + Gold + Titanium + Zinc + (good quality Steel) + Chrome
= will all play nice together..

The corrosion between those metals is so obnoxiously slow, by the time u notice something corrode, you'll hair will have also corroded away.

Alu <--- this is the main thing we warn people about.... especially if theres copper in the connecting loop.

Bad steel / iron... this straight up rusts... and yes ive had it happen inside a loop.

Ok, I see. Well, guess I'll grab some plastic connectors like the one the Apogee comes with just to be safe. This way it's just plastic, brass and copper, no way to go wrong with it.

Thanks!

[Movieman]

Justr get a couple of those algae eating fish and toss in the res..
Now get very small ones or when they get sucked into the tubing they will get stuck in the WB or HMM, wonder if they would make it thru the pump?

[m0r7if3r]

Ok, I see. Well, guess I'll grab some plastic connectors like the one the Apogee comes with just to be safe. This way it's just plastic, brass and copper, no way to go wrong with it.

Thanks!

I think you mean plastic barbs? If so, don't do that, the flow in the plastic barbs isn't too great, the high quality metal ones are far superior, not to mention ease of use.

[penguins]

no one told you to change any components. just use pt nuke or a silver kill coil + distilled water. that's the only change you need to do other than cleaning.

[Eversor]

I think you mean plastic barbs? If so, don't do that, the flow in the plastic barbs isn't too great, the high quality metal ones are far superior, not to mention ease of use.

Not the ones that fit the tubing on the inside, the ones that are exactly like most swiftech barbs. Those seem fine don't they?

[Eversor]

no one told you to change any components. just use pt nuke or a silver kill coil + distilled water. that's the only change you need to do other than cleaning.

Yes, I know. I'm just saying that the anodic index doesn't really encourage the use of nickel plated barbs in circuits where copper or brass is present, so I'm just playing safe on that one. Aluminium seems a lot worse, though, so I guess that nickel should be that of an hazardous but using plastic barbs is not exactly an expensive change and I also have at least one barb corroded, so I have to exchange it either way.



These are the plastic barbs I'm talking about.

Best regards

[MagisD]

Nickel plated is perfectly safe, as long as the plating is good, even then it's nickel plated brass and what your worrying about is posting flaking off.

Sent from my X10a using Tapatalk

[Sideroxylon]

I also have at least one barb corroded, so I have to exchange it either way.

You have a corroded nickel plated barb? I highly doubt that. It might be coated with crap but nothing you can't clean off.

You really need to listen to what we've been telling you. Nickel is fine in a loop with copper and brass. By the time you'd see any corrosion issues with nickel your great grandchildren will be dead.

[NaeKuh]

plastic sucks.. trust me.. when we used that, we had nightmares with the threading getting worn out and then leaking.
This also brings back a period in time where we used plumbers tape to stop leaking on plastic.

Never want to go back there again.

Use standard blocks.. and ur good with almost every fitting out there.

As i said, the only thing u need to avoid is ALU in general.
And rarely anything comes in alu now, unless its a AIO... All in One.. kit like the H6O <--- alu rad.. or a innovotek mockery.

If any of the other vendors used Wetted ALU, and didnt state that, they would get a crucifixion on XS, on biblical proportions.
You can ask Gabe himself.. he suffered though a couple...

And koolance wont go back there again... i think there very happy with there position current, seeing how they are probably the top to second top vendor in size.
Only company i think may be simular or larger being Swiftech.

[penguins]

Nickel plated is perfectly safe, as long as the plating is good, even then it's nickel plated brass and what your worrying about is posting flaking off.

Sent from my X10a using Tapatalk

You have a corroded nickel plated barb? I highly doubt that. It might be coated with crap but nothing you can't clean off.

You really need to listen to what we've been telling you. Nickel is fine in a loop with copper and brass. By the time you'd see any corrosion issues with nickel your great grandchildren will be dead.

plastic sucks.. trust me.. when we used that, we had nightmares with the threading getting worn out and then leaking.
This also brings back a period in time where we used plumbers tape to stop leaking on plastic.

Never want to go back there again.

Use standard blocks.. and ur good with almost every fitting out there.

As i said, the only thing u need to avoid is ALU in general.
And rarely anything comes in alu now, unless its a AIO... All in One.. kit like the H6O <--- alu rad.. or a innovotek mockery.

If any of the other vendors used Wetted ALU, and didnt state that, they would get a crucifixion on XS, on biblical proportions.
You can ask Gabe himself.. he suffered though a couple...

And koolance wont go back there again... i think there very happy with there position current, seeing how they are probably the top to second top vendor in size.
Only company i think may be simular or larger being Swiftech.

+1 +1 +1

you might have noticed nickel plating come off, that isn't corrosion.

Silver is further away from brass/copper than nickel is!! the corrosion between silver and copper are slower than hell man.. double that for nickel. aluminum is 9 items away from copper, silver is 2.. All the serious posts here have told you nothing other than Clean! and Add PT nuke or silver or both!!