Swiftech MCP655 w/Control - BP Modded Problem

[deachus]

I have been running my Swiftech MCP655 w/speed control for the past year or more with an ApogeeXT, 3x120MM EK rad, and Swiftech res and 1/2"IDx3/4"OD tubing with no issues and great performance.

I recently bought an 800D, matte black BP 7/16"IDx5/8"OD compresssion fittings, matte black BP D5 mod kit, and BP Mod pump top V2 and new LRT white tubing.

I put the loop together outside the case after getting all tubing measurements correct so it is easier to bleed all the air out. I get a fish tank sound or really bad air bubble sound coming from my pump after getting all the air out. The radiator is fully air free and the res is no longer showing bubbling no matter which way I shake, turn, flip each component in the loop.

As an fyi, this Swiftech MCP655 was DEAD SILENT prior to installing the BP mod top and matte black kit. I followed the directions that came with the kit. I even disassembled the loop and took the modded pump apart just to make sure I didn't do something wrong the first time and I saw no problem, and put the pump back together.

I will not be able to use the modded Swiftech pump as it is now WAY TO LOUD if I can't solve this noise problem coming from the pump. To be clear, it is not a grinding sound, it sounds like a huge stuck air bubbling sound or waterfall sound.

Anyone have any experience using the BP D5 mod kits and tops and if they had problems getting air out of the pump or how to get rid of the air bubbles/fishtank sound? Literally sounds like a waterfall.

Thanks in advance

[m0r7if3r]

How long has it been running? Have you tried the pinch the tubing trick?

[deachus]

How long has it been running? Have you tried the pinch the tubing trick?

I got the loop put together on Saturday, ran it off and on all day trying to get the noise to go away. I took the pump out of the loop sunday and took the pump apart to make sure it was put together properly then ran it for a while on Sunday. I can't say I have just walked away and let the loop run for more than 30 minutes. Alot of off and on and flipping, bending, moving, flicking tubes.

I don't specifically recal pinching the tubing but can you suggest where I should try pinching the tubing? How hard should I pinch it? I assume you want me to restrict flow by pinching the tubing to build up some pressure?

Thanks for the reply.

[RacingTurtle]

Are you sure you have enough coolant in there?

[deachus]

Are you sure you have enough coolant in there?

Enough coolant in where? The loop? The res was refilled probably 10 or more times when filling up the loop and bleeding it. After about 6 refills you could shake the rad and here the water going back and forth telling me it wasn't full and air was still in the loop. After another 5+ refills and alot more air bubbles coming into res the radiator is now full of water, can't here the water going back and forth when shaking.

The res is currently filled to 1" from the top and has been that way since Sunday. I have shaken, twisted, tapped, turned every component in the loop and can't get a single air bubble to come into the res and the res water level has not dropped.

[m0r7if3r]

How are your clamps? Could the pump be pulling air from a tubing joint or maybe from the res outlet?

Pinch the tubing just after (the outlet of) the pump. It'll buildup back pressure and force the pump to fill with water.

[deachus]

How are your clamps? Could the pump be pulling air from a tubing joint or maybe from the res outlet?

Pinch the tubing just after (the outlet of) the pump. It'll buildup back pressure and force the pump to fill with water.

Thanks for the suggestion, I checked all compression fittings and they are as tight as I can get them with my fingers. I am using 7/16" x 5/8" BP compression fittings with Primochill LRT White 7/16" x 5/8" tubing which should work fine together. (First time using compression fittings, have always used barbs for the past 8 years with my water cooled rigs). Also, my res has rubber o-rings around the threaded fill plug and they are screwed down tight. Also, the water level is above my res outlet by about 2.5" so I don't think it's pulling air in though the outlet.

Will try pinching the tubing just after the pump outlet when I get home from work in about 25 minuets and report back.

I think there is just a stuck air bubble in there and the pinching method could/might get rid of it(fingers crossed). I had the pump almost go silent on me when shaking it and holding it upside down but when I put it back to right side up the sound comes back.

The noise is so annoying the wife came into my office last night and pretty much said "Fix that, it's f**king annoying." Haha

[jcrouse]

Also, my res has rubber o-rings around the threaded fill plug and they are screwed down tight. Also, the water level is above my res outlet by about 2.5" so I don't think it's pulling air in though the outlet.

Well, I'm a complete noob, building my first loop but I read into the quote that the fill port is "capped off" tightly. Have you tried opening it up and running the loop for a while.

Just my thoughts,
Good Luck,
John

[deachus]

Well, I'm a complete noob, building my first loop but I read into the quote that the fill port is "capped off" tightly. Have you tried opening it up and running the loop for a while.

Just my thoughts,
Good Luck,
John

Good suggestion and I should have been clearer on that but yes, during the entire bleeding process the fill port plug was not on so air bubbles could escape.

Just to be clear also I have been water cooling for about 8 years and have never had a problem bleeding a loop so that is why this is so frustrating to me. I pretty much wanted to know if people who have used the Bitspower mod kit for the D5 had similar issues or if there is a trick to modding the pump with the BP kit.

The only difference this time is the modded pump and the Primochill LRT white tubing which does not allow me to see if there are bubbles in the loop since the tubing is not see through. First time using solid colored tubing.

Thanks everyone for the input.

[RacingTurtle]

Hmmm, bit of a weird one. I wouldnt think that BP mod could cause that, but then I havnt used that kit, so....
Good luck, hopefully Vapor or Waterlogged will spot this and help you out.

[deachus]

I pinched the tube just after the pump outlet multiple times and it didn't work. I made a quick video and posted on Youtube so you can hear what I am hearing and see my setup.

If you put on your headphones or turn your speakers up you will hear the sound I am talking about.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nC9hh6lDE-A


Any thoughts?

[penguins]

I'm no expert on d5's but You have the input and output wrong. your pump is being fed by your cpu block not the res.

and that sound IS air being stuck in the pump.

first switch the input and output to be fed by the res then go to your cpu. then just let the system push the really small bubbles out.

You're prolly not used to this because the pumps we use now are so much more powerful than pumps we used to have and they just didn't used to have the flow or velocity as d5's and ddc's have.

[m0r7if3r]

Well that IS bizarre. It almost sounds like a screw vibrating, but that could be the video. Have you tried taking it back to stock?

[defect9]

Sounds like you just need to run the loop for about 3 hours straight to purge the bubbles. it's not the big bubbles you have left either. it's the tiny ones. run it for about 5 hours to be sure.

how are your temps? for some reason your inlet/outlet choices on the pump don't look right to me (*edit* ah, i see what you did, nevermind. I'd have used the other inlet and other outlet, but that's a personal preference, as I believe it would cause less turbulence)

[deachus]

Sounds like you just need to run the loop for about 3 hours straight to purge the bubbles. it's not the big bubbles you have left either. it's the tiny ones. run it for about 5 hours to be sure.

how are your temps? for some reason your inlet/outlet choices on the pump don't look right to me (*edit* ah, i see what you did, nevermind. I'd have used the other inlet and other outlet, but that's a personal preference, as I believe it would cause less turbulence)

Can you suggest what ports you would have used to create less turbulence? I would give it a try.

[sabe]

Can you suggest what ports you would have used to create less turbulence? I would give it a try.

I'm pretty sure its not connected correctly. The tubing from the res should be connected to the middle port of the pump top.

[penguins]

I'm no expert on d5's but You have the input and output wrong. your pump is being fed by your cpu block not the res.

and that sound IS air being stuck in the pump.

first switch the input and output to be fed by the res then go to your cpu. then just let the system push the really small bubbles out.

You're prolly not used to this because the pumps we use now are so much more powerful than pumps we used to have and they just didn't used to have the flow or velocity as d5's and ddc's have.

I'm pretty sure its not connected correctly. The tubing from the res should be connected to the middle port of the pump top.

As I said, you're pulling water from your CPU block

When you want to pull it from your res.
Switch the tube from the res to IN ( middle )
Switch tube from CPU block to OUT ( other port on the same surface ) I'm typing from my phone I can draw you a pic later if needed.

[deachus]

As I said, you're pulling water from your CPU block

When you want to pull it from your res.
Switch the tube from the res to IN ( middle )
Switch tube from CPU block to OUT ( other port on the same surface ) I'm typing from my phone I can draw you a pic later if needed.

I got you, I will try what you are suggesting even though I ran this same D5 without the BP mod kit the same way but obviously there were only 2 ports on the stock D5. Also, the temps in bios for a 4.4Ghz overclock @ 1.38v stays at 45C with the loop running as it is now, just that crazy noise. Also, I have been running a stock D5 for more than a year with no issues and it was dead silent. I only ran into this problem with the modded D5 which provides so many ports on the pump top to utilize.

Also, correct me if I'm wrong but I don't believe I can just switch the tube from the CPU to the "out" on the pump and put the tube from the res to the "in" on the pump because you must use the offset fitting (one not in the middle of the block) on the Apogee XT for the "in" which I have coming from the radiator at the moment. So, I think I will have to switch the tubes on the CPU block, then take "in" tube from the CPU and put it on the "out" port on the pump?

Also, would you feed the pump from the res utilizing the "in" on the top or side of the BP mod top? Or does it not make a difference?

[penguins]

what you want is A. from the res to IN
and B. OUT to the CPU block.

the bubbles you have are just silly small bubbles, it can help to run the pump on high low meduim. the reason you're still getting bubbles is because as defect9 said it is causing turbulence. all the micro bubbles would go away a lot easier if going from the res to the pump.

ps. I just really wanted to edit a picture ; )

[deachus]

Thanks, I think I'm clear on your point. I just want confirmation if you would use the in and out that are side by side or can I use in or out on top and in or out on side? Does one configuration over another provide better results?

My compression fittings will not fit side by side utilizing the in and out on the top of the pump so that is why I use one top port and one side port....

[penguins]

If I remember correctly the A. IN and B. Out is the best performance configuration, I can try and find where I saw that. Could have been a different top, but same idea.

edit: actually it looks like the config you had it with the side input top outlet scores a bit more head per flowrate. on 2 different similar tops, so maybe just flip it around 180 it's prolly dependent on the certain top tho.

[deachus]

If I remember correctly the A. IN and B. Out is the best performance configuration, I can try and find where I saw that. Could have been a different top, but same idea.

That is good news because I couldn't run a side by side port configuration due to the BP compression fittings being too wide. I will switch my setup to have my res feed my pump via the A. IN port on the side of the pump and have the top B. OUT port feed my CPU. I will just have to change the rad tubing to the middle port on the CPU block and have the tube from the pump feed the offset port on the CPU.

Here's a pic of changes I will make. Also, I just want to say thank you for the quick replys and suggestions. I will make the switch tomorrow and report back with my results and hopefully a better video of the system running.

[penguins]

Actually.. I think you want the cpublocks middle port to be the In so the hoses for the cpu block stay the same. ( it's an Apogee XT right? if so middle is input )

Otherwise yes. : )

[deachus]

I will go double check that, thought the offset was inlet but its been a long night, just got home from a board meeting so I could be wrong.

[Waterlogged]

Just switch the fittings on the pump, the CPU is fine.