Assembling EK Supreme HF nickel

[Odai]

Hello,

I recently purchased the all nickel version of the EK Supreme HF block.

According to the manual, one of the "middle restriction" plates was installed as stock, and from the reviews I've read online, I decided to switch this for the most restrictive one (the one with two openings). Foolishly, I didn't just check which plate was installed by checking which ones were left as spare in the box - I opened up the block to check (I normally do this with new purchases anyway, in case there is anything in there that shouldn't be).

As soon as I loosened the top, the larger o-ring came out and I've been having trouble getting it to sit back in its groove again. Any tips?

Thanks,

Odai.

[matari]

It should not be hard to put back together if you are using the LGA 1366 mount. I use the black mount to hold the O-ring in place. It will always pop out if you do not place the black plate on quickly. If you are still having issues, use some vaseline on the back of the O-ring to hold it place.

[tiborrr]

Put the top on it's back, put on the mounting plate, insert the o-ring in between them. Then flip this 'assembly' around and put in on the copper base. Bolt down all four screws and you're set!

[Odai]

Thanks for the advice.

The way I'm doing it now is to put the top on it's back, and the hold down plate on top of it. I then (try) to put the o-ring in the groove formed in between the two parts.

Problem is, move it slightly and the whole thing pops out again.

Also, I think I need to keep the top on it's back, and lower the nickel base on to it, rather than the other way around. Reason it, the screws pass through the base and screw into the top.

It would be easier, if it wasn't for the fact that I couldn't keep the jet plate in place either.

[tiborrr]

The way I'm doing it now is to put the top on it's back, and the hold down plate on top of it. I then (try) to put the o-ring in the groove formed in between the two parts.

Problem is, move it slightly and the whole thing pops out again.

That's the correct way. May I suggest stretching the o-ring a bit and then put it in the newly formed groove

[Odai]

OK, I seem to have gotten it to stick.

I've still got the problem of the jet plate continuously coming loose.

I did think of maybe just trying to leave the jet plate on top of the smaller oring, and lowering the base onto the "assembly". Although I'm not sure how I could get the plate to align perfectly with the depression in the base...

[NaeKuh]

Odai i gotta give you some credit.

Either you look for problems, or your just unlucky.

For you to have hung on so long... u definitely deserve a cookie.


Just letting you know bro, the second time is and will be a LOT easier after all the troubles you went though on the first time.

So just hang in a little longer. Your almost done.

[Vapor]

In Odai's defense...reassembling the Supreme HF Cu/Ni models (and maybe the square acetal/acrylic versions too) is a PITA. There's no place to put the injection plate, except in the base (and it's not a snug fit at all), where it just falls out of because you have to turn the base upside-down to install it onto the top/mount-plate/o-rings (none of which are secured to each other--in fact the large o-ring is secured by a floating object, the mounting plate).

Yeah, they (arguably) look better with the only visible screws on the underside of the base and the block cost less to make by only using four screws in the assembly, but assembly of the block is not simple. If there were some way to properly position the injection plate onto the top of the block, that would help things tremendously as you could just build the block upside-down and then place the base on and screw it on, but you kind of have to guess where the plate goes or place things onto the base (and with the major o-ring secured by the mounting plate--a very movable, floating object--this isn't exactly easy) and build in that direction, then flip it over to screw it together.

Overall, it's something that's pretty difficult to do the first time, the second time, and probably the third time....if you're used to assembling this block it's not that bad, but the first few times I tried I messed it up.

[SlowSVT]

DO NOT STRETCH THE O-RING

I had the same problem and found a way around it. The O-ring does not stay seated in the groove.

Take (4) narrow strips of masking tape (about 1/8" wide x 3" long). Take one end and dab it against your fingers several time to reduce the aggressiveness of the adhesive. Then loop the finger dabbed end of the masking tape around the O-ring but leave very little overlap so the tape can easily pulled away. Do this to all (4) strips of masking tape. Now place the O-ring in the groove and use the tape to pull the 4 strips out to meet the corners of the block and adhere the other ends of the strips down to hold the O-ring in place. Now place the cover on the block making sure the restrictor place stays in the proper position and install the screw and tighten just enough to hold the O-ring in place. Then pull the masking tape strips out which should delaminate the loop removing all traces of tape. Now tighten the screws. It's likely you will need to perfect your technique. If the tape doesn't work for you try sewing thread wrapped around the O-ring and tape the thread down to get the O-ring to hold the square shape of the cooling block.

I had the same problem but found this technique worked well.

[Odai]

Odai i gotta give you some credit.

Either you look for problems, or your just unlucky.

For you to have hung on so long... u definitely deserve a cookie.


Just letting you know bro, the second time is and will be a LOT easier after all the troubles you went though on the first time.

So just hang in a little longer. Your almost done.

I am actually almost done, just got to clean out the last radiator, route the tubing, sort out this block and fill mah loop.

Been at it for almost two months now (totally tore down my system, modding the case) can't wait to get this system up and running again. I really should have made some sort of a build log...

Unfortunately, taping the o-ring wouldn't solve the issue, as the problem at the moment is keeping the jet plate in place.

I did manage to re-assemble it, but I'm not entirely sure it was done correctly. What I did was assemble the top, including the o-ring and hold down plate, on it's back. I then placed the jet plate on top of the smaller o-ring, and aligned it as best I could. I then very carefully lowered the base down onto the top. As I begun to screw down the bolts, I heard a little metallic click, which I'm hoping is the jet plate moving clicking into place.

I have no way now to check if it's been done correctly, so I'm a bit nervous. I always leak test any new components individually, in a test loop out of my system (makes it a lot easier to check all round the part for leaks). I guess no leaks would mean the larger o-ring stayed in place, but there's still the issue of whether the jet plate ended up in the depression on the base.

[Vapor]

How deformed is the base? I found when I misplaced the injection plate, the base would bow unevenly. If you could put a straight edge to it and see that the bow is symmetric, you should be fine.

Also, looking into the inlet and confirming the positioning of the injection plate is the first step, 2nd step is making sure it's *just right*

[tiborrr]

As I said, flip the mounting plate - o-ring - metal top assembly while holding it together firmly. Place everything together on the copper base on which you have previously installed the jet plate.

Then again flip everything together and put it on it's back and screw the four screws!

[Vapor]

The major o-ring just falls out for me. I've never stretched mine and it's a little too big to hold on to the top's lip

[mav2000]

I just redid my loop and screwed up the way the bottom fits in. I put the bottom with the micro fins the wrong way and that really killed the flow. So be careful of that. Also as far aa the plate is concerned, placw it on the bottom block, thwrw are two place holders on each of the curved sides of the plate. My O ring fit on the top part of the block just fine.

Sent from my Milestone using Tapatalk

[jumper2high]

I've disassembled my Supreme HF 5-6 times and managed to re-assemble it every time without having any leaks, so I guess I'm doing something right - and here's how I do it:

First, I put the top on a flat surface such a desk so that the part where o-rings come is facing upwards. Then I place the smaller o-ring in the groove by first putting it on top of the groove and then pressing it in piece by piece. I try to avoid twisting the o-ring because this usually makes it real difficult to stay in place. I then place the jet plate on top of the o-ring i just placed.

The next step involves placing the black mounting plate onto the top and centering it the way it's supposed to be placed, and then do the same thing I did with the previous o-ring - place it on top and then tap it in with my finger. After that, I place the bottom (part that contains the micro channels) making sure the channels cross the line on the jet plate.

I usually wiggle the bottom part a bit and then take it off to make sure the o-ring is still in the same place. If it is - I've done it right, if it falls out of place the block would have leaked in the worst place possible (where you can't see it and it goes all over the motherboard).

Since we're talking about the "full nickel" block - the screws go in from underneath, so there's no need to flip anything until the block is tightened firmly.

[matari]

I never had an issue with this block. I just do the assembly upside down as been suggested. If the O-ring does not stay in place, use a little bit of vaseline. I am sure they use some lube when it it assembled at the plant. Maybe it was not hard for me because I upgraded from the Heatkiller 3.0; I dreded taking that block apart.

[Odai]

Thanks for all the tips guys, really great suggestions.

jumper2high, yup, that's exactly what I did too.

Vapor, the block is bowed, but whether it's more than usual or not I can't tell. Looking through the inlet, there doesn't appear to be anything drastically wrong though. And the jet plate openings are perpendicular to the flow channels.

I'll be leak testing the block alone tonight, will see how it goes.

[PiLsY]

Its always best to know the ins and outs of every single piece in your loop - including what can go wrong during assembly and fitting.

Get all this out the way before you power the system on and you've given yourself a really good start in the hobby. Do it the other way round and it costs you a fortune .

[Odai]

I've actually been water cooling for about 18 months now.

This will be my fourth loop. However, I'm finding I'm still always learning new stuff, especially thanks to the excellent community here.

[sabe]

Makes you wonder how EK assembles it doesn't it?

These have always been tricky for me especially with non plexi blocks which doesn't even allow me a visual check.

[Eddy_EK]

yeah, stretching is only for new o-ring.