Temperature and noise help.

[shadow of chaos]

I've been running a swiftech MCR 320 Drive for the past 6 months, while there have been no problems with it while running.. there are things bothering me

#1 Noise, the pump is still quite noisy after all this time, so it basically rules out any air being trapped in there. it creates more noise over the rest of my system and it sounds like a mini microwave. Random humming/vibration seems to be common still

#2 Temps, I seem to be getting higher temps than people with closed loop systems apparently. Like the H50-H70 with the same processor.

To solve the noise issue i was thinking of getting the MCP35x pump and putting that on the rad, as i hear it runs virtually silent at almost it's lowest RPM setting.. and apparently only a tiny loss in performance from reading a review of the Edge kit which has the 2nd revision of the MCR Drive. Though, people on a different forum suggested i should have just gone with custom parts instead of the Drive and they say the MCP350 is quiet and it's louder for me because it's mounted to the rad . i was also advised not to get the MCP35x to set to lower RPM as it would be weak.

As for the temps i am not really sure what i can do. I know there have been some issues with the Apogee XT block with a lot of bent pins, no idea how mine is.. but i can't think of anything else unless my block needs sanding.

Just ran a stress test for 30 mins on Prime 95 1.344v @ 3.6ghz max cpu temp went to 67c, i've seen up to 80c when testing with 1.41v. ambient from start of testing with the sensor behind the rad and went from 27.7c to 29.3c though it doesn't feel hot in this room.. not sure if those ambients are correct. Feels more like 22-23c at most. Maybe i am measuring it wrong? as the fans are blowing warm air near the senor.

So any advice please? noise/temps definitely do not feel right, at least looking at results on other sites that people get with higher voltages and run near silent setups.

Fans are pushing from front of the rad to the back, scythe GT 1150rpm's

[lilmanmgf]

Have you tried remounting the block at all? You said your system is noisy, did you bleed it properly? Does the idrive act as the res too, or is do you have a separate one?

[matari]

If the pump is making an grinding noise then you got air in your loop. The pump radiator is going to mouch louder than pump seperate with foam. Nothing you can so about that. If the temps are slowly rising then you might have gunk in your block. What type of coolant are you using?

[Conumdrum]

How is the rad mounted? Can you post a pic?

EDIT: Isn't the voltage rather high for that overclock?

[shadow of chaos]

Pretty sure it's been bled properly, i mounted the block only once. I cant see how remounting would help as it is pretty secure with the easy mounting system the block has.

it's using a high voltage because it's not stable set lower, and i've even had BSOD's a couple of times but very rarely.. maybe twice or 3 times in months so it's still not stable even at this voltage, though stress testing came out with no errors for more than 12 hours.

I'm using arctic silver MX-3 for paste, water is just distilled and with PT nuke.

is there anything i can do about the noise or will this impact temps a lot? and i'm sure people with coolers not as good as this get better temps.

Conumdrum, this is the best image i could get with my webcam

[Conumdrum]

How do you know the thermal paste is correct? How many mounts have you done with air heatsinks, or watercooling blocks? It's easy to check.

Your case is a mess, you could have bad airflow over the mosfets/ND etc causing BSODs.

Is the pump outlet connected to the center inlet on the block? And I think the block is 90 deg from how it should be mounted. Check this stuff.

[shadow of chaos]

How do you know the thermal paste is correct? How many mounts have you done with air heatsinks, or watercooling blocks? It's easy to check.

Your case is a mess, you could have bad airflow over the mosfets/ND etc causing BSODs.

Is the pump outlet connected to the center inlet on the block? And I think the block is 90 deg from how it should be mounted. Check this stuff.

I've done a few mounts before, water blocks not many as i only had a cheap asetek kit years ago. I just did a remount with fresh paste on the block and temps seem no better than before.

I know the case is a mess with cables, needs sorting out.. i have an office fan that pushes air around the room and i leave the side panel off, so it's getting a bit of air flow from that at least.

the pump is connected directly to the center inlet of the block, then the outer barb back into the rad.

http://www.overclockersclub.com/revi...ua_nhd14/4.htm looking at this though, even though it's a D0 and mines a C0 it's getting better temps than me at a higher voltage with virtually no noise and it's on an air cooler..

[Vinas]

I think the swiftech logo should be pointing down to the right on that board. Or maybe it is fine since it is still parallel?

[shadow of chaos]

it's still parallel so it doesn't matter

[MagisD]

As for point one, I had 2 mcp-35x, one was fine second same nosies as yours.

Tried an rma they sent it back with nothing wrong. But it no longer makes the whine or grind, I belive it was crap in the pump. Something left over from manfactutering. I have no proof though. Try taking it apart and cleaning it.

Sent from my X10a using Tapatalk

[Martinm210]

I would suggest trying to undervolt the pump before replacing it, any fan or pump controller capable fo 30W should work.

[spitter3]

Looks to me that your rad is getting heat spoiled form your psu and gpu, and being close to the wall.

[shadow of chaos]

Looks to me that your rad is getting heat spoiled form your psu and gpu, and being close to the wall.

Not sure if this would really make much of a difference since the air coming out of both feel pretty cool at the moment, maybe someone with a similar setup can tell me if these temps are right or too high.. because they still seem too high to me.

as for opening up the pump to check it, i might do that but i would have to drain the whole thing and leak test again which is annoying.

By the way, has anyone else had one of these pumps randomly turn off and go back on? i thought it was a faulty cable but i plugged it into another molex and it did it again yesterday while i was checking the res

[warriorpoet]

By the way, has anyone else had one of these pumps randomly turn off and go back on? i thought it was a faulty cable but i plugged it into another molex and it did it again yesterday while i was checking the res

I have. It died 2 months later. Get another pump or RMA your current one.

...of course mine lasted 4+ years of 24/7 use before it started acting up :p

[shadow of chaos]

I have. It died 2 months later. Get another pump or RMA your current one.

...of course mine lasted 4+ years of 24/7 use before it started acting up :p

I thought it was a faulty cable coming from the of the 3 pin fan -> 4 pin molex + extra molex connector. as if i fiddled with the cable before, the pump would go off/on but now it's plugged into another one. Can't get it to do it again by doing that now, odd..

Anyone else for advice on noise & temps?

[Martinm210]

Your temps problem is the air intake. That PSU and graphics card are probably raising your effective ambient a LOT more than you would think. Could be 10C or more. Fresh cold ambient air is of #1 importance to rad performance, it's the cooling floor of watercooling and preheating it with a PSU and RAD is going to hurt that.

Unfortunately the bottom mounted PSUs, makes rear mounting a problem with that. Move the rad to a custom made stand where it can get cool fresh ambient air will make a good difference. Also consider getting three more fans to mount on the back, maybe use some old gutted fans for shrouds.. All those will help temps.

For noise, you should undervolt. You can actually get by without loosing as much as you might expect by dialing the pump down. Or get a 35X and dynamically reduce speeds, but that's a lot of money for that minor change.