No...
I modded another CU2 same way and reached easy 1394 in a few minutes...
Not all cards can get higger frequency...
The mods are correct and working fine.
Steponz card haves the same issues than mine i think..
I can t use more than a VID mod (+0,4) and the bench will crash...max ~1.35V and get about 1220 Mhz Vantage...
Thats mine VGA issue
TPQ 1200 Antec
Splave....THAT'S SICK!! Glad you found a good un!!!
____________________________________________
More & more very expensive, quickly obsolete parts!!
seems like multirail is okey also. I use the antec 1200 and after some modding the card runs 1400Mhz Vantage.. almost.. hehe.. losing about 17C in the start of tests, thats the reason. (at 1.57v)
1353Mhz went fine at 1.51v. I ran pll 1.31, vmem 1.89v and vgpu 1.51v.
no coldbug is SWEET! or CBB.. -186 all the time.. ahhh
EDIT: my insulation and info on the card: http://www.diskusjon.no/index.php?showtopic=1311993
Last edited by dpa; 03-24-2011 at 11:34 AM.
Looking good dpa
Insulating the room around the core, especially mems, with eraser is not the best way. Maybe mems are getting cold and that keeps you back.
Today I did some testing with my second Direct CU II card. This card is very impressive, but I did not manage to get satisfying results out today. I thought to share my findings.
The way I test the card is following:
Voltages I use are:
(Antec HCP PSU or corsair AX 1200W)
VGPU 1.55V-1.6V
VPLL stock -1.35V
VMem 1.88-1.9V
(Full pot temperature from sensor is -174, so values are not 100% correct. They will just give the idea about it)
1.) Use OCZ freeze thermal paste. It is clearly the best for this use. Use a lot of it.
2.) Cool down to -60C and see if 1200MHz works. If no artifacts and issues, go to step 3.
3.) Cool down to -80C and see if 1300MHz works. If no artifacts and issues, go to step 4.
4.) Cool down to -120C and see if 1400MHz works. If no artifacts and issues, go to step 5.
5.) Cool down to around -130C and try to run Hwbot Unigine heaven at 1450MHz. Go colder after the start of the benchmark.
The issue I have is, that when I go over -135C without 3D load, I hear that crack or snap and card wont run at all. The contact between GPU pot and core just get loose and the bondage between them is lost.
Then i just back down to 1200MHz and let Hwbot heaven benchmark run 30 seconds. After that you are usually able to continue
The load these cards produce is so huge, that contact between GPU and pot must be optimal. I think my main issue have been too tight and too firm contact. I need to learn how to install pot "badly" to get it working better..locigal haha.
So the ones who struggle with their cards, start slowly with temperature and check that pattern I wrote with the clocks your card can do for sure.
Most of them should be able to hit those same values with same voltages and temperatures. If you have direct lockup in the beginning, your contact have gone bad by too cold temperature. Then you need to back down and try again after short warm up.
If you have colorful "stars" on the screen it is most likely bad contact and too high clocks for it. The same frequency can usually be done without any "stars" on the screen, when contact is ok.
I don't have too much time to bench before end of the upcoming summer, so this will be bugging me for sure.
I was 8 seconds away from finishing the benchmark today and I think that is it from this spring
Have fun with your oc adventures! We will see later this year!
Last edited by SF3D; 03-27-2011 at 01:26 PM.
You are as good as your samples are!
All have all kind of issues...
Grey screen, blue screen, stars, eg.
Running always about 130 or more...
Using Antec Formula 7
GPU voltage get down 0,05v when the bench starts (then i set correct voltage)
RAM voltage - go higger when the bench starts (1.74 to 1.94 for exemple)
I know is mod 2d to 3d cause this kind of stuff...
remount the pot 3 times and same issues..
I don t know if the card is more freeze than is necessary, buit i did put paper inside (pot - paper - p´cb)...and didn t solve the problem...
I think my card sucks
Use some different thermal paste. I have not tested antec formula 7, so can not say anything how that works. But what I would suggest is, that go to -50C first and set the voltages, which will be used during 3D runs. Then cool down to -100C and try 1100MHz for example. If it can run, try 1200MHz and then 1300MHz etc.
If you go directly to -130C and then start benchmark + set voltages, your thremal paste have propably lost contact and you will get lock up or black screen.
Grey screen is usually too hot gpu for the voltage +MHz combination. Blue screen is something weird and I have never seen it with these GPU's.
So try again with easier style first.
My rought approach have been giving a lot of issues since GTX 480 Lightning. I saw these issues first time back then and finally I have learned from my mistakes. Well, almost
You are as good as your samples are!
Guys, where do you get the OCZ Freeze? It's EOL and I can't find it anymore
Born to lose, live to win!
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