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Thread: EK Supreme HF Acetal vs Nickel/Copper

  1. #1
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    EK Supreme HF Acetal vs Nickel/Copper

    Hey there...

    Ok, i'm upgrading my Supreme to a Supreme HF.
    I want to build a all black interior... basically, neutral color scheme so in the future i don't have any "aesthetics" problem in my hands ehehehhe ...

    So i was choosing between acetal and full nickel versions...

    Is there any performance difference between both?

    Thanks
    Pedro
    Oh...your ass is grass and I've got the weed-whacker.

  2. #2
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    There should be no measurable performance differences between the two.

    A nickel one is full metal, so it's heavier but also the threads are less likely to get stripped and the top can not crack (I mean, it can crack, but you'd have to put it under a locomotive to deform it).

  3. #3
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    I'm interested what are the notable differences between acetal, copper and acrylic materials (besides that acrylic is transparent and copper is the most expensive)?

  4. #4
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    Durability / looks is the only differentiation.

    Copper / Nickel are basically the exact same thing for realistic thermals except nickel is more tarnish / oxidation resistant. And for the nickel solutions, that is only nickel plating, the base material is still copper.

    Acetal and acrlyic are both plastics, but for durability Acetal is a bit better and more tolerant of it's environment. Plastics are also never heat transfer materials, that is still down the metals in blocks, copper / brass / aluminum, etc.

  5. #5
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    The copper/nickel version does perform slightly better actually. There's a few good reviews dotted about - seen a couple comparing the standard HF to the full nickel and the full nickel always wins (although by under 1c). Maybe bows the base more? Can't imagine its the metal top itself conducting and transferring any heat.

  6. #6
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    It is true about nickel verses copper but you have to appreciate... most nickel blocks are coated nickel... the core is copper.
    There is is very little difference in heat transfer.

    Came across this from a bookmark i added..
    * Copper - 400 W/mK
    * Nickel - 91 W/mK
    * Copper Oxide - 20 W/mK
    * Artic Silver thermal paste - 8 W/mK

    Another thing I find funny is AMD/Intel would snipe any of our Moms on a grocery run if it meant good quarterly results, and you are forever whining about what feser did?

  7. #7
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    An all metal block should transfer more heat then one with metal only on one side. Water couples and transfers heat on both sides. You can always paint the top side if you want it black.

  8. #8
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    So, the full nickel and full copper should have the same performance, correct? For what i understand the full nickel vs full copper, just changes the nickel coating correct?
    I've been reading and it appears that the full Cu ones have almost 1ºC difference from the acetal and plexi top ...
    Oh...your ass is grass and I've got the weed-whacker.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Postmodum View Post
    So, the full nickel and full copper should have the same performance, correct? For what i understand the full nickel vs full copper, just changes the nickel coating correct?
    I've been reading and it appears that the full Cu ones have almost 1ºC difference from the acetal and plexi top ...
    U wont notice a difference so dont worry, Nickel does last longer though..

    Another thing I find funny is AMD/Intel would snipe any of our Moms on a grocery run if it meant good quarterly results, and you are forever whining about what feser did?

  10. #10
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    Nickel coated copper is the best of both worlds.

  11. #11
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    I think the nickel will impead the heat transfer over bare copper but if it did the difference would be minor. The anti-corrosion benefits the nickel plate offers would offset any loss of heat transfer.

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