We have a leak, gentlemen! :(

[vulcZ]

http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/2...0108113618.jpg

On the right GPU barb there was a small puddle of water about 3 minutes into my 2nd leak test. I fixed it by tightening the barb some more. I think I cut that part of the hose a little long, which is why it's causing the barb to slightly teeter to the left, and thus causing the leak. Either way, it's no longer leaking, but I do plan on draining everything and adjusting that hose accordingly.

On to my question. The puddle of water. I tried it immediately, but I'm 100% positive water eeked its way under my 5970's backplate. I'm using 100% distilled water. I took our air compressor and blew into that corner and a lot of water splashed out, and I'm sure some splashed inwards. What should I do? Is my only solution to remove the back plate and dry under there? I ask because if I could avoid that, I would since I'm pretty sure it would involved me having to break things down again.

I blew air into there to the point where I no longer saw any water moving around or splashing around. What would happen if I let the water just dry on it's own? Can cause any damage to the card if it dries on there even though it's 100% distilled? Thanks!

[Quad-Damage]

Turn the Case upside down and let it air dry for 2 days before you power it back on. It would be better safe then sorry

[vulcZ]

Turn the Case upside down and let it air dry for 2 days before you power it back on. It would be better safe then sorry

I decided to play with fire and boot it up and thankfully everything is working great still.

System is leak testing as we speak! I was sure freaking out earlier today

[theseeker]

Pleas take no offense to my comment as I do not mean it to be that way.
I was taught by one of the best on this forum (BlueAqua) to use smaller diameter hose on a bigger barb and you will never get a leak!
I used 3/8 tygon over a 5/8 barb with no clamps and two years later, no leaks. The downside is that you can never get the hose off without cutting it off!
Just my 2 cents.

[Brodholm]

I decided to play with fire and boot it up and thankfully everything is working great still.

System is leak testing as we speak! I was sure freaking out earlier today

I would recommend leak testing with the system off!!!

Just have the pump plugged in and run it like that for 24h or more. And use towels to see if there is a leak.

You can start the PSU with a wire between a black contact and the green one in the 24pin cable.

Like this:

[Conumdrum]

I would recommend leak testing with the system off!!!

Just have the pump plugged in and run it like that for 24h or more. And use towels to see if there is a leak.

You can start the PSU with a wire between a black contact and the green one in the 24pin cable.

Like this:

++++11111

Too late I think...

[vulcZ]

I would recommend leak testing with the system off!!!

Just have the pump plugged in and run it like that for 24h or more. And use towels to see if there is a leak.

You can start the PSU with a wire between a black contact and the green one in the 24pin cable.

Like this:

Oh yeah, I don't think I was clear in the OP

I was leak testing using this method, but instead of using a paper clip I actually used a device designed for that (work paid for it so no skin off my back).

http://www.frys.com/product/6489932?...H:MAIN_RSLT_PG

The leak happened while everything was off, except for the PSU, so nothing was damaged. My main concern was my method of trying to dry off the water that did leak, since some of it went under my GPU back-plate. The air compressor was able to most of the water, because the system has been running for 6+ hours (everything, not just the PSU--daring, I know) without a single problem in the garage. I think my leak problem is gone

I did think about smaller hose idea, but I figured it works the same as simply tightening your barbs enough. Doing either correctly will prevent leaks, doing either incorrectly will cause leaks. The no hose-clamp solution does look a lot nicer though!

Thanks for the feedback guys!

[runnin17]

Oooooo, I was just about to do a google search on leak testing. Glad I stumbled across this thread

[Fatfool]

Had that once with a Compression too. (it happens on all sizes, mine is 1/4" ID, 3/8" OD.)

It fried my chipset fan and wireless card.

The rule of the thumb is: If the tube looks odd on the barb, unscrew/remove the clamp to take a look .

[voigts]

You seriously played russian roulette by turning your comp on. The way to make sure is to take whatever got wet apart and drench everything with isopropyl alcohol and let it dry in front of a fan for a while. As the alcohol evaps, it will take any water with it.

You could have found an answer to this by searching as its been asked many, many times before.

Your leak while leaktesting is one reason why I always leaktest with air pressure.

[meanmoe]

I leak test with water. Leaks are par for the course. I've never used alcohol to dry - good trick. I have put the part by fans and allowed it to dry on its own over a day or two and I've used an oven on low with the door cracked before for quick results. Also,. be careful over-tightening those worm clamps, they can destroy tubes - I hate those things.

Don't get hasty with water.

[Manicdan]

spilled water on my PC a few times, never actually broke anything

also +1 on testing with the PSU being jumped to think its running

and is that tygon or cheap stiff tubing? with those clamps i cant understand how you get a leak, unless its the very stiff tubing you find at local hardware stores for 50c a foot.

[scook9]

On my latest build I had some leaking from the base of my res and one of my angle rotary fittings, just had to go back and make sure that everything was screwed together tight enough and that did it

I always leak test with the PSU jumped so no system components are powered on. If using something like distilled water or a non conductive coolant though you get away with alot.

My first loop ran fine for 3 months (leak tested when built) than I left for a month vacation this summer and came back with a puddle in my case (very sad face). Turned out that the o-ring was too skinny for the fitting on my NB block and it leaked from there. Got the NB chip all wet and dribbled down the case ultimately collecting in the PSU. I did not know any of this until I powered up the computer and it just kept power cycling - automatic short circuit protection. I ended taking everything apart to dry it out. Had to blow compressed air UNDER the NB package on the motherboard (a fair amount of water was blowing out - this sucked) and all up in the PSU before stuff was happy. I was lucky and no parts were damaged but it gave me a very good scare. Ended up having to add a 2nd O-ring onto the fitting on the NB block to make sure it sealed good (worked )

The moral of that story for me was make sure that all of your parts are screwed firmly into place (do not get carried away though or you can damage o-rings or strip threadings). I also have compression fittings, while looking awesome, they do not seal as well as wormgear clamps and a barb (at least that is my impression of them) - installing the tubing on the compression fittings was a PITA since you have to twist the clamping portion of the fitting which in turn has a nasty habit of twisting the tubing as well (and subsequently loosening the other end of it).

Sorry this is sort of a long post but hopefully it can help you and others out some

[vulcZ]

spilled water on my PC a few times, never actually broke anything

also +1 on testing with the PSU being jumped to think its running

and is that tygon or cheap stiff tubing? with those clamps i cant understand how you get a leak, unless its the very stiff tubing you find at local hardware stores for 50c a foot.

It's Tygon

The leak didn't come from where the tube meets the barb, it came from where the barb meets the waterblock. It wasn't tightened enough.

[Holst]

I also have compression fittings, while looking awesome, they do not seal as well as wormgear clamps and a barb (at least that is my impression of them) - installing the tubing on the compression fittings was a PITA since you have to twist the clamping portion of the fitting which in turn has a nasty habit of twisting the tubing as well (and subsequently loosening the other end of it).

Ive never liked compression fittings used in watercooling kits.

Although they look pretty they are less reliable (in my experience) than a 1/2" hose barb and 7/16" tubing.
I dont use any hose clamps as they are not needed with this combination.

I also had good success with 1/2" silicone tube over 1./2" barbs but I couldnt find silicone hose for my new build (and its not as pretty as clear tube)

[Fatfool]

I also have compression fittings, while looking awesome, they do not seal as well as wormgear clamps and a barb (at least that is my impression of them) - installing the tubing on the compression fittings was a PITA since you have to twist the clamping portion of the fitting which in turn has a nasty habit of twisting the tubing as well (and subsequently loosening the other end of it).

Good comps seal well. The twisting part happens when you use an inappropriate outer diameter. For example if you use 1/4" ID, 3/8" OD tubing with 10/8 compression fittings.



The one on the left is 10/8, the right is 11/8

[scook9]

My fittings are 1/2" ID 3/4" OD just like my tubing